Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys,

I.ve just bought my first skyline. It's a 1992 r32.

It's got no engine mods at all, just a 3" cat back and is really quiet. I'm wondering if i take the plumb back pipe off the stock BOV an plug it off. And let the stock BOV vent to atmo will that cause any problems?

This is just temporary until i can get a decent BOV.

Your advise would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222151-r32-stock-bov/
Share on other sites

Hey

It will not boost properly as the stock blow off valve leaks air into the plumb back pipe which then, as you would know , joins back in to the intake pipe

It recirculates the air to keep the car running smooth, prevent stalling and surging through gear changes and when RPM drops rapidly

For the stock blow off valve to function properly it needs to be plumbed back at all times, if you block the plumb back pipe and have the blow off valve vent to atmo you will be causing a leak, therefor the car won't run/boost as it should so probably not the best idea

You can block the blow off valve on the cross pipe, block the plumb back pipe and block the vacuume line, that will work but probably won't get the sound your after

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222151-r32-stock-bov/#findComment-3914926
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...