Jump to content
SAU Community

Underbodie Aero


Jack88
 Share

Recommended Posts

latly i have seen a few videos of an R34 with underbodie aero kits installed and it has spiked my interest.i have an aftermarked front bak on my R33 so the oridginal plastic parts dont line up on anything and just flap around any way so i think ill start fabing up a template to make a front underbodie aero "guide" or whatever you want to call it.

not sure as to what ill make it out of yet but probly some sort of plastic.

opinions welcom

Jack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

latly i have seen a few videos of an R34 with underbodie aero kits installed and it has spiked my interest.i have an aftermarked front bak on my R33 so the oridginal plastic parts dont line up on anything and just flap around any way so i think ill start fabing up a template to make a front underbodie aero "guide" or whatever you want to call it.

not sure as to what ill make it out of yet but probly some sort of plastic.

opinions welcom

Jack

Hey man

I have one on my R32 that is made from 4mm sheet metal, from there it tucks up into the front bar and just screws into place where the bash plate normally is. Works a treat!!

Edited by Phils32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

underbody

the best bet would be some fairly think sheet alluminium. make a template out of cardboard, transfer onto the sheet, cut it out, bolt it on. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont forget that you actually still want the air to be able to leave the engine bay from the bottom of the car, if you seal it to well it will actually create lift on teh front end and hamper your handling not help it.

that said, if done correctly it will help remove air from the engine bay causing low pressure in the bay and helping downforce (or atleast decrease lift)

use this time to seal from the front bar to your cooler, then from cooler to radiator to increase efficiency of both. also forces air the go elsewhere Ie to the sides, which will also increase the efficiency of the front end and reduce drag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sasha Anis of SG Motorsport in canada did an amazing buildup of his S14 and documented his underbody aero fabrication on a forum... here's some pics to give you some ideas:

Mockup:

underbody01.jpg

underbody02.jpg

underbody03.jpg

Fabbing:

05~2.jpg

06~1.jpg

01~3.jpg

03~2.jpg

04~2.jpg

02~2.jpg

Painted:

07~1.jpg

On the track:

insidetrack03.jpg

insidetrack04.jpg

ziptied03.jpg

Early damage:

ziptied02.jpg

Unfortunately the car was written off on the track and eventually parted out (think Sasha's still running a 350GT in the production class racing)... but goddamn... what a car. Should give you fellas some ideas.

It was made using honeycomb aluminium sandwiched between aluminium sheets, to reduce weight and maximise strength and rigidity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shan - any pics of the front section finished?

with something that seal on the front vents out fo the engine bay into the guards would work the same as leaving vents on the underneath - 2 ducst like on the rear section on the front section would work too.

naca duct for the diff cooling is a good idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Daily - 2011 Audi A5 And the camper VW transporter T5          
    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
    • Thought I'd give an update. There needs to be scarce details in some areas due to ongoing discussions. Here's the journey of trying to make the booked registration appointment (again). Sent a complaint to Car Inspect outlining the concerns and made some demands. Went to a service center in Geelong, got assaulted with bullshit items on the RWC, as you know. Tried to quote $2.5k AND wanted a structural report Only seemed to be one place around Geelong that does them, they demand $495 just to end up telling me it's f**ked, at least $11k to fix and tried to sell me his own Skyline in the process (bro, wtf?) Started stressing about what I'm supposed to do with this possible pile of steel. Awaiting that, I was sent an angel friend who works in Melbourne and knows real mechanics and body shops.  They laughed at the reported quotes (don't get work done in Geelong) Car underwent some front surgery and brought back better They then sent it to the mechanics for RWC Registration appointment is two days away at this point. Mechanics pointed out two issues: driver's seat and shocks - that's it. He offered couple options and I chose coilovers. Frantically I scoured the jungle realm that is Facebook Marketplace (again). Found what looks to be a decent Series 1 seat actually - $100 Guy is friendly, offers to bring the seat with a colleague who's heading to Geelong (thanks man, that was cool) Seat arrived, looks good. Throw it in my car and drive to Melbourne and drop it to mechanic T-1 day, mechanic reckons job will be done for the fronts only, gets it done by 4PM Mechanic heads to get the coil-overs that night as a favour to help me make the appointment Get driven to Melbourne, drove the car back - RWC Unlocked! ✅ VicRoads tomorrow, the goal is close now. 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...