Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello there i have a 1990 GTS4

i was wondering what tyre size set up i should have since the attessa the rolling diameter needs to be the same? sorry

yes i tried the search feature but i think its not working for me

do you guys with R32 GTR and GTS4 mind sharing with me your tyre setup for track, streets and twisties please??

originally i was thinking 265 rear and 235 front?? on 18" or am i getting it all wrong??

cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222561-r32-gtr-or-gts4/
Share on other sites

Yes, the ROLLING DIAMETER needs to be the same on ALL FOUR CORNERS. The simplest way to achieve this is to run the SAME SIZE TYRES on the SAME SIZE RIMS on all 4 corners. (Also simplifies evening out tyre wear by swapping F<->R).

I'm going to recommend switching to 17s, because you get a bit more sidewall flex available (you should note F1s run quite a tall profile tyre , especially on the rear)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222561-r32-gtr-or-gts4/#findComment-3922858
Share on other sites

Can I just ask?

From what I read, you already have the rims.

What size/width/offset are they?

Basically, yes.. you need the same rolling diameter all the way around.

Im running 205/45/16 on an 8 inch rim.

Stretch means less sidewall flex..

sidewall flex is VERY scary through the twisties..

Also, caster (spelling?).. try increasing caster so as the steering wheel straightens up easier during oversteer.

The rest is all up to you.. It depends how you drive. See if you over/under steer and then adjust strut/sway bars and height/damper rates according to what your experiencing, what you like and what you dont like..

It takes a while to get that sweet spot but once you got it.. gosh its awesome!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222561-r32-gtr-or-gts4/#findComment-3929835
Share on other sites

You can run 235/40/18 on the fronts and 265/35/18 on the rears to get a very close rolling diameter front and rear. Thats what I use on my street rims.

Or else you can just run something like 265/35/18 all round if it'll fit your guards, and if your rim is wide enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222561-r32-gtr-or-gts4/#findComment-3929858
Share on other sites

my rear guards been flared out so i can fit the 265/35 at the back..but i was gonna go 235 for a move linear price range on tyres an slicks.. on a 17" 8" or 9" wide?

like i can afford the 18" tyres no problem but some times its abit difficult trying to find a place that always stocks the 18" and also since i havnt flared out my front guards i dont really want to want to go to the hassle of playin with different sizes

even though Yawn your tyre set up for street sounds pretty decent.

but since 17" are fairly common i might move into that area cause later i want to move into track since i used to do it on my motorbike..

thast why im asking all these noobish questions.

but what offset would be good for a GTS or a GTR. also should i be using a 8 or 9 or even possibly a 7.5" wide rim?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222561-r32-gtr-or-gts4/#findComment-3931231
Share on other sites

Smaller width tyres on the front is not good for handling balance in a nose heavy 4wd. Your car has over 60% of its weight on the front tyres and around 40% on the rears. That's why they understeer. Plus it does close to 80% of its braking on the front tyres. Smaller front tyres simply increase the understeer and decrease the braking potential. So why in the hell would you want to have less grip on the front than the rear?

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222561-r32-gtr-or-gts4/#findComment-3935038
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...