Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently running a r32 na diff ratio 4.3 i think. Is that the uber torquey one from na nissans?

Even with the RB25 in there i would have been seriously considering dropping the diff ratio, now that you are going to have Ben's Special Sauce under the bonnet, i would 100% be dropping the diff ratio. Mind you it may just mean you now take corners in 3rd rather then 2nd depending onb how the turbo and engine combo responds. But would still think a diff change is warranted (Remember i said "think" :D )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222641-rip-rb25/page/2/#findComment-3934687
Share on other sites

There isn't a massive difference between a 4.3 and a 4.11 - I'd be leaving it where it is given the big snail on the side.

In road speed to rpm there may not be a massive difference.

But the diff multiplies torque. So considering he was borderline with the std RB25 then its only going to be worse with the higher torque figure of the engine. The only benefit may be that the new motor has a nicer torque curve (expected) so doesnt have the big torque hit that the chassis/suspensio/tyres has to cope with. But the diff still multiplies torque and will only make traction more difficult.

I would be backing off the diff ratio personally. Will certainly help on corner exits where you will be able to grab more throttle and ride the torque and get out of the corners, which helps corner speed and boost on corner exit. 9 times out of 10 you will go through a corner quicker if you carry more throttle in say 3rd then you would in 2nd at higher revs having to be more delicate with the throttle application. 9 times out of 10 :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222641-rip-rb25/page/2/#findComment-3934950
Share on other sites

Yeah good thinking man.

The 25 box countered the 4.3 diff but now with the torque increase it might be time to go a bit taller. I will see what the power delivery is like. All i know is that when I grab 5th with the 25 box the car feels like its standing still. 5th feels really long but now that we cut the rear bar off its at least 30% beter in 5th.

Ill see how it feels with the new motor.

Also we have now offically gone to RE55 265/35/18 all round.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222641-rip-rb25/page/2/#findComment-3935047
Share on other sites

In road speed to rpm there may not be a massive difference.

But the diff multiplies torque. So considering he was borderline with the std RB25 then its only going to be worse with the higher torque figure of the engine. The only benefit may be that the new motor has a nicer torque curve (expected) so doesnt have the big torque hit that the chassis/suspensio/tyres has to cope with. But the diff still multiplies torque and will only make traction more difficult.

I would be backing off the diff ratio personally. Will certainly help on corner exits where you will be able to grab more throttle and ride the torque and get out of the corners, which helps corner speed and boost on corner exit. 9 times out of 10 you will go through a corner quicker if you carry more throttle in say 3rd then you would in 2nd at higher revs having to be more delicate with the throttle application. 9 times out of 10 :(

Wise words there Brisby; couldn't agree more :)

I have attached a comparison between my 25 and 30 set-up. The 30 has a bigger turbo (530hp compared to 380hp) so on the same engine, bottom end torque would be less; but look at the attached graph and note how much torque is gained at 90km/h, in 4th gear.

post-1811-1213164788_thumb.jpg

Double the 25 set-up! and this is in run in tune.

But i have to admit this is VERY tractable and does not tend to kick the arse end out unexpectedly/violently (in a straight line anyway). Keep the foot 3/4 buried and the wheels start squealing at about 5000rpm, in second gear; But you have better, wider tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222641-rip-rb25/page/2/#findComment-3935515
Share on other sites

Yeah good thinking man.

The 25 box countered the 4.3 diff but now with the torque increase it might be time to go a bit taller. I will see what the power delivery is like. All i know is that when I grab 5th with the 25 box the car feels like its standing still. 5th feels really long but now that we cut the rear bar off its at least 30% beter in 5th.

Ill see how it feels with the new motor.

Also we have now offically gone to RE55 265/35/18 all round.

LOL, this is so cool. I know Period Pain (Will go back to being Big Red when it stops locking brakes, throwing PS Belts, shearing oil pumps ie head aches etc etc) has been in the build a long time. But it is great to see a whole lot of quick development going into the car and things actually happening and changing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222641-rip-rb25/page/2/#findComment-3935960
Share on other sites

How about tell your friend to ring? Or wait for an update...

Anyhow - i have a 4.3 i believe too, its not too bad but i wouldnt mind a 3.7 or something to keep me in the power longer and even for road duties

Im doing silly RPM @ 100... 3000 or something :wub:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222641-rip-rb25/page/2/#findComment-3939949
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...