Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Mfd Reset Losing Gauges

myr332

By myr332,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

myr332 Enthusiast

myr332

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

I've done a bit of google farming without allot of success, so thought I would throw it to the general forum populous.

I have a R34 GTR V-Spec II. As you're aware, the V-Spec offers a couple of extra features including 2 x extra sensors and the MFD upgraded to utilise these sensors. Namely, they are the Exhaust temp gauge and Intercooler gauge.

My situation is that really I have two problems. The first problem (and if anyone can help with this, great! but it's not the main topic for discussion) is that my boost gauge is registering at 0 at all times, and does not pick up any boost. I had a friend advise me that the MFD needs recalibration, so off I went down the path of recalibrating based on Nissan instructions. The recalibration worked just fine, but it didn't fix anything - and to make matters worse, when I powered the car on after the recalibration I had lost my 2 sensors.

So it would appear that the MFD has reset to a non-V-Spec configuration, and has removed my Exhaust and Intercooler temperature gauges.

Can anyone advise on how to get them back?

As a secondary, does anyone have advice on the boost gauge problem?

I've had the car for nearly 4 months now without fault, so this is the first (and hopefully last???) for a long while I hope. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223258-r34-mfd-reset-losing-gauges/
Share on other sites
R34NRG Grand Master

R34NRG

Posted
Posted

its because you ran a diagnostics on the MFD when there was no reading input for exhaust/inlet temp.

drive the car around to get your exhaust temp and your inlet temp up. then run a diagnostics.

it should look like this

vmfd3.jpg

if you dont no how to run diagnostics here it is.

Diagnostic mode

1) Turn the key to the "OFF" position

2) Push and hold the joystick

3) Turn the key to the "ON" position while still holding down the joystick

4) Release the joystick at least 1 second after the "GT-R logo" appears.

5) Click the joystick 5 times within the next 3 seconds.

This will show which sensors are functioning and have readings.

R34NRG Grand Master

R34NRG

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hey mate - spot on, worked a treat.

Thanks for the great advice!

Any guidance on the boost gauge issue constantly showing neutral pressure?

Thanks

do you have any other boost readings in the car apart from the MFD?

if you do, are they all working? or is the MFD the only one with the issue.

Edited by R34NRG
myr332 Enthusiast

myr332

Posted
  • Author
Posted
do you have any other boost readings in the car apart from the MFD?

if you do, are they all working? or is the MFD the only one with the issue.

unfortunately the MFD is the only boost gauge that i have in the car... so no definitive answer there :P

R34NRG Grand Master

R34NRG

Posted
Posted
unfortunately the MFD is the only boost gauge that i have in the car... so no definitive answer there :)

thats a bummer, are you running a boost controller!??!?!

all i can say is check your boost sensor in the engine bay. and make sure there are no leaks or anything.

myr332 Enthusiast

myr332

Posted
  • Author
Posted
thats a bummer, are you running a boost controller!??!?!

all i can say is check your boost sensor in the engine bay. and make sure there are no leaks or anything.

have any tips on where the boost sensor is? the car still boosts fine, it's just the gauge.

if you can give me a hand with letting me know where the things are, i'll get it checked out..

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

usually on the firewall, up in the corner on the drivers side. little black plastic box about the size of a matchbook. it will have a little rubber vacuum hose running to it, 1 set of wires running out too.

  • 3 weeks later...
ARDGTR Apprentice

ARDGTR

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Have a similar problem but not with the boost mines with front torque to be honest i think there are one or two that don't show any reading at all i have gone into the diognostic mode and front torque still lights up green so i have no idea why its not working its actually scaring me maybe my alttessa is not working???? (this is my first GTR had an EVO7 before) oh yeah my car is a R34 gtr Vspec

Sorry for hijacking but thought its relevant.

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...