Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time for some updates...

Yesterday, I managed to strip out my R32...

I removed the engine and transmission, Doors, trunk hood, rear lights and a lot of boxes that I do not know what was, and probably will never use.

I also manage to remove the back axle cradle with everything on, so the car is practically completely stripped out...

Today I will try and get everything removed from the cradle and I will deliver the shell and the cradle to sandblasting to remove all the rust, and primed, so it will not rust again.

Then when I receive it again, I can start on the Firewall and gearbox tunnel.

I will also try changing from the ball thing used on the spindle for the HICAS to a bushing like the one on S13/S14. If the S13/S14 does not fit, I will make something similar...

Here are some pictures, sorry for the large size:

web.jpgweb.jpgweb.jpg

web.jpgweb.jpgweb.jpg

web.jpgweb.jpgweb.jpg

web.jpgweb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

More updates...

My sandblaster dude had taken a vacation, so I did not send the car off to be sandblasted.

Instead I manually removed the sound isolation on the floor.

I also started on the firewall, and hopefully I will be finished with it at the end of this week.

I also got my new air filter kit from K&N Air filter. The kit is for 2007 Corvette LS7, and it is HUGE! and my new brakes are on the way from Performance Guru, James. D2 356 8Pot front brake Kit, 330, 6pot rear Brake Kit.

So parts are poring inn, and car is being worked on.

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi!

Time for build update!

In the last week I have managed to make a firewall, and im damed proud of it! It is looking nice, and is stiff.

I made a firewall out of a plain sheet metal, after I reinstalled the engine:

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

Don't be scared of the small gap between the firewall and transmission, I was needed to go offshore on short notice, so I did not finished cutting it out. If you see the black line, thats where I will cut it when Im back onshore again... Leaving plenty of space to remove transmission with out removing the engine.

And the brakes that I ordered the 1. December arrived at my fathers shop the 5. December. and they where huge.

Sorry that I do not have any pictures of them yet.

Im also struggling with a clutch Master Cylinder and clutch.

Options on master Cylinders:

I can only use Wilwood master Cylinders, since I have a Wilwood pedal Box:

Bore: 0.625in, Stroke: 1.300in, Volume: 6.54ml

Bore: 0.750in, Stroke: 1.100in, Volume: 7.96ml

Bore: 0.875in, Stroke: 1.200in, Volume: 11.82ml

And clutch alternatives:

Fidanza Twin Disc Clutch Kits

McLeod RST Street Twin Clutch Kits

Single Plate clutch (Suggestions?)

Origional Corvette LS3 (Followed the engine when I bought it)

Please come with suggestions...

Edited by Morten Kiil Finsaas
  • 2 weeks later...

Finaly got some work done. Almost done with the gearbox tunnel.

The framework of the tunnel is made by 20x20x1.5mm square steel, so I can "Hang" the gearbox from it.

It has taken some hours making it, but I think its going to be great.

Here are the pictures:

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

is that solid bar?

:P

Its welded to the old tunnel, and to the new firewall if thats what you mean. Since its also holding the gearbox, It needs to be strong.

the steel is a square bar, 20mmx20mm of 1.5mm thick steel, not a solid bar.

  • 2 weeks later...

Have got some work done.

The firewall is finished, and gearbox tunnel is finish. And so are the floor is also finished..

I also managed to install the S14 left hand steering and steering column, and it fits great! So the next step is to mount the pedals and everything under the car, so I can get the wheels on. Then I need to remove all the roll-cage bars, so my roll-cage builder can build a new WRC style one in the middle of january.

Here are pictures from the gearbox tunnel. The four pannels that is not mounted on the last picture, will be bolted for easy access to the bolts and connectors and so on:

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

Here are pictures from the mounting of the stearing:

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

I also recieved a use carbon wing, in pritty good shape, for sheep amunt of money:

web.jpg

web.jpg

Here are pictures of the new front brakes that I recieved early december. The rear brakes are identical, but a little bit smaller. (Front: 356mm, 8pot. rear: 330mm, 6pot.):

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

I have managed to get some work done on newyears eve...

I managed to get the brake pedal assembly mounted, and Im happy with the mounting. I used a friend of mines Master brake cilynders, to check for clearance.

Next step is to remove the rollcage and make it ready for the new rollcage. Also I need to install all the old parts for the wheels so I can roll and stear the car when it is at the rollcage builder...

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

Recently I managed to mount the front suspencion on the car, and the front brakes. But the 18" wheels that I have needs spacers to be mounted...

web.jpg

I also managed to mount the whole back wheel suspesion also, but Im missing some small things...

The rollcage is removed, only grinding on the old welds and replacing small parts of sheet metal left, and it is ready for rollcage mounting.

So this project is on hold util I get back from work in about two wheeks, and the new parts arrives...

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

web.jpg

same brakes Stu has on his 32 I think also a few other guys here are using them.

looks good :D

Yea I know he has these brakes...

They are supposed to be good brakes for less money...

They are about 1/10th of new simular Brembo brakes (I checked... :) ), but I do not think they are only 1/10th of the quality eather...

And, I just passed 200 images in my gallery for the build... :Pgallery.mac.com/mortenkf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...