Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Different people have different opinions - I don't see it's any reason to get upset or start slinging insults around.

Some people don't see a point in the 'stance' or 'big camber' movement, whilst others love it. At the end of the day, it's just a thing of personal taste - though I can see how Dohmar's reply could be seen as a criticism or personal attack.

Pic shown was clearly on a public road. One would assume that the car is a street car, setup for that whole bosuzoku camber-as-f**k scene. Which has nothin to do with performance. If you had a pic of that car with that camber on a track, I wouldn't be asking questions as I can appreciate camber on a track car, but in all the professional racing (ie not drift) they have sensible camber - one where it maximises the contact patch, not deliberately making the camber so negative that it reduces the lateral grip.

So yes, *Excessive* camber is dumb. Maybe ya'll got a different definition what is excessive but from my narrow minded opinion, cars were meant to grip around corners (I do admire drift dont get me wrong but its an entirely different train of philosophy to 3/4's of car events - that being grip is good, slip is bad). Practical camber? You want it for a road vehucle, a drift vehicle, a time attack vehicle or a drag car? Apples aint apples. And yeah from that pic, it looks totally over the top... not having a dig at your setup if it is a proper drift car but

Nice to see Weezy is still a spineless stooge who runs 0 camber... as per last time :)

-D

EDIT - And yes, I was a tad undiplomatic - thats a dope photo no doubt about it, I just ask myself WTF when I see that much camber on a street car

sorry,

but in all the professional racing (ie not drift) they have sensible camber - one where it maximises the contact patch, not deliberately making the camber so negative that it reduces the lateral grip.

i'm sorry, but i think you've got your wires crossed, generally what limits negative camber, is braking, not lateral grip. for example v8 supercars run -5.5 camber, if this falls within your definition of sensible camber, then mine must almost fall under the same category. only a few years back a few teams were experimenting with -7, but had issues with braking, generally anything after -6 your braking performance begins to fall off, up to that you're generally only helping your times by increasing lateral grip, obviously there are other factors to consider, different tyres and suspension types, but i'm not going to get into that. drifting we require front grip, however our geometry is flipped on itself as we carry through a corner with opposite lock, and due to the amounts of steering angle compared to that of a car under grip conditions, the static camber has less of an effect due to the caster angle and SAI's effect on dynamic camber, and the fact that static camber has less and less of an effect the more steering angle there is.

2ndly, not sure how a car being driven on the street automatically leads to the assumption that it never gets driven on the track :S

sorry,

i'm sorry, but i think you've got your wires crossed, generally what limits negative camber, is braking, not lateral grip. for example v8 supercars run -5.5 camber, if this falls within your definition of sensible camber, then mine must almost fall under the same category. only a few years back a few teams were experimenting with -7, but had issues with braking, generally anything after -6 your braking performance begins to fall off, up to that you're generally only helping your times by increasing lateral grip, obviously there are other factors to consider, different tyres and suspension types, but i'm not going to get into that. drifting we require front grip, however our geometry is flipped on itself as we carry through a corner with opposite lock, and due to the amounts of steering angle compared to that of a car under grip conditions, the static camber has less of an effect due to the caster angle and SAI's effect on dynamic camber, and the fact that static camber has less and less of an effect the more steering angle there is.

2ndly, not sure how a car being driven on the street automatically leads to the assumption that it never gets driven on the track :S

I live in adelaide. My bad. Cops ever saw that camber here in adelaide you'd be having some srs difficulties. You'd probably know this already

Also, ur pic makes it look like ur running 10+ degrees, Its nice that you fill out those camber details for us novices to take in, cause now I've learned something and have something to compare it against. My knowledge is all from grippage and not drift, so my apologies for being off the mark - what you posted is excellent.

End is, I dont think that theres any circumstance that I would run that much camber. Me not being a drifter and that.

And as to my first post - yes - as JRM said, it was cosmetic - it just looks dumb IMHO (unless you're the 0.05% population that is well versed in the lore of drift)

-D

we'll have to agree to disagree, if i had a time attack car where i found the optimal setting was -6 degrees camber, i'd happily run that on the street, even if some people thought it looked silly, at the end of the day, what's a little tyre wear on the street compared to improved lap times out on the track?

we'll have to agree to disagree, if i had a time attack car where i found the optimal setting was -6 degrees camber, i'd happily run that on the street, even if some people thought it looked silly, at the end of the day, what's a little tyre wear on the street compared to improved lap times out on the track?

Guess that all depends if you're a racer or just a dude who drives it as a daily

-D

Guess that all depends if you're a racer or just a dude who drives it as a daily

-D

You love arguing on the interwebz don't you lol.

Oh to have as much spare time on my hands as you do

  • 2 weeks later...

What was the event run like, how many runs did you do, did you get to line up against whoever you wanted/or was it more structured? I might have to take the V35 whale out next time and see if I can crack a 13.XX :)

It was run ok imo, the only hold ups were when a few cars leaked fluid on the start line. I got 8 runs in from 10am till 6pm with a fair few breaks between, i think that was reasonable considering there were 160 cars registered. Would of been nice to have the line up more arranged,we got in line and didnt know who we were up against until we got to the front, you could try count but some cars would pull out or be tow cars, 'Jap Star' and I were 1 car apart a few times. Drag day on the cards for SAU ;)

The 12.3 was with Yokohama semis on 15psi, launched at 3-3500 with no spin. Also made a 12.6 with Dunlop street tyres at 3000rpm with minor spin in 1st and 2nd. Dropping the psi and doing a decent skid helped reduce wheel spin massivly on the street tyres.

The 12.3 was with Yokohama semis on 15psi, launched at 3-3500 with no spin. Also made a 12.6 with Dunlop street tyres at 3000rpm with minor spin in 1st and 2nd. Dropping the psi and doing a decent skid helped reduce wheel spin massivly on the street tyres.

great time bud excellent for stick infact what power u running?

1.9 is really good bud with a manual, it sounds funny but the 60 is the hardest part 1.7 in a manual is going to take alot of mechanical abuse if it hooks up lol good fun trying tho 1.7 would take u to a 11.94 , may need same launch but just a few more horses to get u there

some blokes in autos cant make a sub 2.0 60 so u done real well

Edited by JETURBO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...