Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just stick with the 5W30 in summer. There's no real need to go thicker as the oil temps will still roughly be the same when its the motor is hot anyway (as the coolant indirectly will remove the heat).

and ur cold start cSt rating will be like much less thanthat of the 10W40....

one question for Busky and trex...I use a 10W30 in my fto and is the goods....I had been using a 10W40 Redline in my Rb25...what u think about lowring it to 10/5W30 as we move into summer...prop. the same as post above.

its a rb25 worked to 300rwkw...I went the 10W40 redline as I thought it to be a good general thickness...yeah might gove the 30 a go...

what weight and brand do u use??

What's your avg oil temp?

A general rule of thumb is to increase oil viscosity by a grade if oil temp increase by 10'c.

hi, im the guy who used to put repco semi synthetic in his r33.

I did my oil change last weekend using mobil1 0w40 and omg can't believe how much smoother it is now. (either mobil1 really good or repco oil just pure cr*p) for some reason i have a feeling its the second one

khunjeng, stay with Redline, its a good oil. Or Motul's 300V "Double Ester" formulation looks great too (mega dose of Moly!).

I'm going to stick with the redline for sure...I havn't got a oil temp guage - i was going to install one but then didn't. Maybe its a must - I assume its hotter but then again I only take it to the max on the odd occassion and its driven on the street.

btw Trex..finally got into the BITOG..saw a few of ur posts...just sussing out UOA now and will post some results using the 10W30 redline.

I'm going to stick with the redline for sure...I havn't got a oil temp guage - i was going to install one but then didn't. Maybe its a must - I assume its hotter but then again I only take it to the max on the odd occassion and its driven on the street.

btw Trex..finally got into the BITOG..saw a few of ur posts...just sussing out UOA now and will post some results using the 10W30 redline.

Have you found a UOA kit yet? Which company are you senting for analysis? I'm now using Wearcheck usa

Have you found a UOA kit yet? Which company are you senting for analysis? I'm now using Wearcheck usa

yeah I have and got the sample sent to me already. I used a company that Busky2k gave me...I will chnage the oil and take the sample and send it off..I'm excited :laugh:

Been busy changing ATF and GB and DIFF oils in other cars...omfg ATF changes suck arse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
×
×
  • Create New...