Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And how come my oil temp nevers goes above 70?

You mean after warmup and >20min driving, you got oil temp of 70'c? A normal engine after warmup need about 80-90'c oil temp to effectively burn off combustion by product/water that get's in the oil.

Anyway where did you live where temp drop to -40'c?

Ive got a HR31 with the older redtop motor, its got apparantly 100,000 on it but its probably more like 150, anyway it blows no smoke and has even compression all over the board so it's in good condition. Pretty much stock standard but it does get quite hot in summer (sits on half temp - should get a proper guage though)

Anyway I was thinking something fully synth 10-40 or should I go something thicker like 50w for summer?

Wow, they do have alot of brands there. How much is their Redline selling?

No idea but judging from their Delvac pricing it wont be cheap. :)

Oh well, I guess I'll have to fork out the money, unless there is something better than Delvac for 70 bucks? :P

No idea but judging from their Delvac pricing it wont be cheap. :dry:

Oh well, I guess I'll have to fork out the money, unless there is something better than Delvac for 70 bucks? :sleep:

Do check with Harold from performancelub.com they do supply Mobil, Royal Purple & some other stuffs.

hey trex and busky2k

I'm getting confused with the diff oil...read stuff about it and thought i was cool...

Castrol Syntrans and Syntrax..75W90 I think they are spec'd at. I have a stock s1 r33. I used Syntrax as it was GL5 rated oil...wondering if I should have used the Syntrans..I get confused with them..Its not for LSDs and I have no idea if I have one or not lol I guess I should know.

KJ

Castrol Syntrax 75W90 - GL4/5 suitable for both diffs and gearboxes.

Castrol Syntrans 75W85 - GL4 for gearboxes only but tends to give better shifting than Syntrax for gearboxes specifying GL4 fluids such as our nissans.

So you chose the right thing!

Castrol Syntrax 75W90 - GL4/5 suitable for both diffs and gearboxes.

Castrol Syntrans 75W85 - GL4 for gearboxes only but tends to give better shifting than Syntrax for gearboxes specifying GL4 fluids such as our nissans.

So you chose the right thing!

haha thanks man...it didn't make any noises...so I thought I was cool. Just in the Castrol spec sheet it says not for LSDs...but the stock R33 diff is a viscious LSD and aparently this is still cool...but I'm still not sure about that.

When an oil is spec'd for LSD use, they mean its appropriately friction modified for clutch LSDs. Most of our LSDs are viscous coupling (VLSD) which means they use their own internal fluid for the 'lockup'. So for VLSDs it doesn't matter if the oil is specifically rated for LSD use or not - just so long as its API GL5 rated. So you are safe with Syntrax.

When an oil is spec'd for LSD use, they mean its appropriately friction modified for clutch LSDs. Most of our LSDs are viscous coupling (VLSD) which means they use their own internal fluid for the 'lockup'. So for VLSDs it doesn't matter if the oil is specifically rated for LSD use or not - just so long as its API GL5 rated. So you are safe with Syntrax.

I looked for hours and couldn't find the info. Bascially I had to reasearch VSLDs and how they work and found out exactly what you said...then got confused again! haha thanks for that mate.

hey guys im due for my first oil change since i bought my car.. engine has recently been rebuilt and has been run-in.. was wondering wot oil to use.. have read/heard good things bout redline and royal purple.. shud i also change my transmission oil as well.. if so which oil?

also my friend had tried putting a short shifter into my car a month ago and the plastic thing right at the end of the gearstick came lose and got lost inside.. does this affect anything as i was told it will get munched up.. shud trans oil change be done to try n flush out any bits?

i mainly use the car on weekends and short trips but no track work etc.. also i was interested in getting a tomei baffle kit.. how does it affect the oil or change things for the better??

cheers

nesh

Can someone please confirm if 20/60 is too thick for my r33? When i give it a bit the oil pressure rises to nearly 8. should i drop the oil and put in some thinner oil?

If all else being equal, oil pressure is inversely proportionate to flow rate, the higher the pressure the lower the flow. You are starving your engine of precious oil during startup and before oil temp is up to operation temp.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...