Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just went and bought 10w30 Mobil 1 for the r34 60,000km on the clock, I read above makes the lifters noisy.. but im not to fussed on that really..

Should it be ok or should I return it for 0w40?

And whats a good transmission and diff fluid for the R34 at 60k?? Car wont break 100 degrees even on spirted driving

Edited by DECIM8
Hey guys

Just went and bought 10w30 Mobil 1 for the r34 60,000km on the clock, I read above makes the lifters noisy.. but im not to fussed on that really..

Should it be ok or should I return it for 0w40?

And whats a good transmission and diff fluid for the R34 at 60k??

I think I would of gone for the 0W-40.

It all depends on how anal you are, the ticking/tapping sound isn't too troubling at first but after a while it gets annoying that something just isnt right with your car. Also if you get the sound when you change the oil, you'll always fun in underground parking :domokun:

Cubes - Oil pressure was a bit lower but should that be expected with thinner oil :X?

Also i went with the 10W40 this time around :wave:

Edited by Baconer
They didnt have it :| I did look but not there .. its mobil 1 gold if its any different ..

better than the crap penzoil ive got in it now

Maybe a 5W-50? I haven't had any experience with mobil1 gold before, is it any more expensive over just mobil1?

Edited by KeyMaker

have heard of some people changing oil filter every 2,500km (twice per oil change) but think thats just people being really picky. They are only $10 though so pretty innexpensive

Also Mobil1 gold (the 10W30) was something like $90

this Mobil silver (10W40) was under $45

Edited by Baconer

Yeah I think so cost me $80 .. seems the going cost for gold .. must be some supa dupa relabel crap lol

Why would you recommend 0w40 because the thinner fluid for start up or higher protection at high temps?

I took the advice of .. a more expensive oil is betta :domokun:

Edited by DECIM8
Yeah I think so cost me $80 .. seems the going cost for gold .. must be some supa dupa relabel crap lol

Why would you recommend 0w40 because the thinner fluid for start up or higher protection at high temps?

For both the thinner fluid for start and higher protection at high temps.

Fair enough .. ill use this as a break in oil then .. medium and then thin next time :domokun: its only 5000km .. 4 weeks easy lol

It depends on where you live too. If it gets really cold during winter where you are and you start the car at fairly cold temps, you'd want something thin enough for cold start ups and low temp protection, but also give you protection when its hot.

Im in sydney .. coldest ill prob see is about 12 degrees in the AM .. and the car idles for a good 3 mins before i set off anyway and then its run quite casually after that until oil temps are up to max .. so I think ill be right .. i dunno if you suggest I get a thinner w ill go get it..

Im in sydney .. coldest ill prob see is about 12 degrees in the AM .. and the car idles for a good 3 mins before i set off anyway and then its run quite casually after that until oil temps are up to max .. so I think ill be right .. i dunno if you suggest I get a thinner w ill go get it..

You should be alright. I live in Far north Qld and I won't use anything higher than a 5W.

In my opinion some people go overkill with there oils. Fair enough, that you visit the track pretty often, then you'd probably want to use the best then.

But for others that don't do track work, I don't think it's necessary to spend top dollar on a top notch oil that isn't going to get used to it's full potential.

I'm not saying to go and buy cheap oil, but rather something to do the job just right. Mobil1 for example is something I'd happily purchase, but I wouldn't pay $80+ on oil 'just because'.

Edited by KeyMaker
Im in sydney .. coldest ill prob see is about 12 degrees in the AM .. and the car idles for a good 3 mins before i set off anyway and then its run quite casually after that until oil temps are up to max .. so I think ill be right .. i dunno if you suggest I get a thinner w ill go get it..

letting your car idle for 3 mins when cold is doing your engine damage. when it's cold in the morning. hop in, start it. let it idle for maybe 10 seconds or so, then start driving. keep boost down, revs under 3000rpm and load not too much until it's up to temp then go for gold. but letting it sit and idle is the worst you can do to a cold engine.

Righto cheers.. Id also like to change over my oil filter, trans fluid and diff fluid and recommendations?

I hear the Redline Shockproof transmission and diff oils do wonders. If there's any clunkiness in the gearbox it gets rid of it.

It costs a fair dollar though. About $100 or so.

Otherwise I went and used the appropriate castrol trans and diff oils. seem to be doing alright still.

As for oil filter, genuine or ryco will do the job.

Edited by KeyMaker
  • 2 weeks later...

Well A week or so later I rekon my car is eatting more fuel than before .. Actually ive done 70km on a quarter and abit of a tank .. so I know its eatting more..

Whats the go .. Thicker top heat?

11. The faster you move the harder your engine has to work to push through the wind. Speeding can reduce fuel efficiency by up to 33%.

Mmm maybe thats the problem

Edited by DECIM8
have heard of some people changing oil filter every 2,500km (twice per oil change) but think thats just people being really picky. They are only $10 though so pretty innexpensive

Also Mobil1 gold (the 10W30) was something like $90

this Mobil silver (10W40) was under $45

no point doing this AT ALL

Filter isnt at its peak until 1/2 way though it lifecycle or over 5000kms. By chaging it more often its not filtering as good. Few tests prove this. However marginal there is def. no point chnageing it more often. I would just chnage it every OCI and use a good K&N oil filter or OEM Nissan. Ryco are shit quality.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
    • Off the back of feedback we have decided to mix up this next Motorkhana at Avalon to have some targeted skills practice for beginners to advanced. Saturday 6th September 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Friday 5th February  Where: 55 beach road Avalon. https://maps.app.goo.gl/HNUE3EuNue3sJxh38 Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher recommended (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. Entry Link > https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250906 You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email [email protected] Entry List:
    • Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?
×
×
  • Create New...