The Goods On Oils

[mark77s]

Depends on how cold it gets, it's not too thick really as 10w is spec (ASTM D-5293) to flow at -25'c. A good Synthetic will have a lower cP then a mineral though.

The cold doesnt really matter unless its below zero and even lower as most oils can handle the extreme cold and maintain there properties to a certain point.

A 10w-40 oil when the car is started in the morning is 10w when cold which equates to say the viscosity of 90Cs, (The thickness of moving oil is measured in centiStokes or cS) when it its at operating temperature (the last digit "40") ideally it equates to 10Cs. So at 10Cs there is minmal wear to the engine and provides the engine with max protection. Whereas 90Cs is thick and will wear the engine until it reaches operating temp. A 5w-40 will be 70Cs at startup and still be 10Cs at operating temps. A 0w-40 will be say 50Cs when cold and 10Cs at operating temps. All oils are still too thick at startup but wouldnt it make sense to go for the 0w or 5w cause it isnt as thick as a 10w or 15w oil when cold?? The majority of engine wear does occur at startup when the oil has thickened overnight. I would only use a 15w-xx or 20w-xx if it was a very hot day at the track.

I agree with Gohan 0w or 5w and for a worn engine 40 eg. 0w-40, 5w-40. In 10-20years i would go up to 0w-50 or 5w-50

[SkyKC]

The cold doesnt really matter unless its below zero and even lower as most oils can handle the extreme cold and maintain there properties to a certain point.

A 10w-40 oil when the car is started in the morning is 10w when cold which equates to say the viscosity of 90Cs, (The thickness of moving oil is measured in centiStokes or cS) when it its at operating temperature (the last digit "40") ideally it equates to 10Cs. So at 10Cs there is minmal wear to the engine and provides the engine with max protection. Whereas 90Cs is thick and will wear the engine until it reaches operating temp. A 5w-40 will be 70Cs at startup and still be 10Cs at operating temps. A 0w-40 will be say 50Cs when cold and 10Cs at operating temps. All oils are still too thick at startup but wouldnt it make sense to go for the 0w or 5w cause it isnt as thick as a 10w or 15w oil when cold?? The majority of engine wear does occur at startup when the oil has thickened overnight. I would only use a 15w-xx or 20w-xx if it was a very hot day at the track.

I agree with Gohan 0w or 5w and for a worn engine 40 eg. 0w-40, 5w-40. In 10-20years i would go up to 0w-50 or 5w-50

MMM ok, was going crazy thinking which oil to use, so today i got Motul 8100 ESTER E-TECH (100% syn) 0w-40 5ltr for $89 with NRMA discount (car is 1994 GTS4, 112000Km) got rid of old elf one and put new blodd in there, little bit smooth she run now, not much of a diff yet, will see how it goes.

Was talking to a tech from Motul this morning, and was asking so many questions from him, he advised that 300V version is for racing cars which seek track, and has to change oil every 3000 to 5000K (max) as they are very LACK IN Detergents, since my car is NON-TURBO doesnt need to change that often, I change only like in 10,000K so he recomend 8100 e-tech one for normal street use.

** Got Motul FF LSD Type 2 oil for front and rear diff, and Redline MT90 for gear box today as well, didnt have time to put it tho

##Is it a good idea to use Nulon N70 addictive with Motul FF LSD Type 2 oil or Redline MT90 when i change diff and gear box oil? any comments ....

Cheers

[some_cs_student]

All oils are still too thick at startup but wouldnt it make sense to go for the 0w or 5w cause it isnt as thick as a 10w or 15w oil when cold?? The majority of engine wear does occur at startup when the oil has thickened overnight. I would only use a 15w-xx or 20w-xx if it was a very hot day at the track.

I agree with Gohan 0w or 5w and for a worn engine 40 eg. 0w-40, 5w-40. In 10-20years i would go up to 0w-50 or 5w-50

I agree with the first paragraph but not the second.

Why higher temps for a worn engine? I mean are you saying that you expect your engine to run hotter as it gets more warn and will therefore need a oil with a higher number at the end (forget the technical term for this )?

I've been told to keep the numbers closer together, so 0w30 is good is you are not hitting temps like 110degrees (or was it a bit less)? At that point the oil is too thin and you should be using something w40....or even higher if you are a track car...

Regards,

Gareth

[mark77s]

I agree with the first paragraph but not the second.

Why higher temps for a worn engine? I mean are you saying that you expect your engine to run hotter as it gets more warn and will therefore need a oil with a higher number at the end (forget the technical term for this )?

I've been told to keep the numbers closer together, so 0w30 is good is you are not hitting temps like 110degrees (or was it a bit less)? At that point the oil is too thin and you should be using something w40....or even higher if you are a track car...

Regards,

Gareth

My understanding of increasing the oil viscosity is to maintain the pressure of the oil. Each car has an ideal pressure @ x rpm, in order to maintain this pressure a thicker oil is used to achieve this. I see alot of people using a xw-40 or thicker oil for GTR's even though the manual states a 7.5w-30 oil. Same goes for other sites, skylines or not.

I have also heard to keep the oils numbers closer together. Oils which span a large range i.e 0w-50 have alot more additives in it to make it that type of oil and as time goes on these additives break down and you will no longer have a 0w-50 oil. It may be a 5w-50 or 10w-50 for sythetic oils but if its a mineral oil the 50 drops to say 40. So if you change your oil often it should be ok. Only real way of knowing is to get your oil tested at a lab to see how much your oil has broken down over time.

[SS8_Gohan]

just checked the weather, next saturday's track day for some of us Vic peeps (some_cs_student, myself, etc).... 35 freakin degrees!!!

i've got some 5w30 royal purple coming from Harold, as there has been some issues recently that Moil and Castrol have switched to group III oil for Mobil 1 and Syntec (maybe not 0w30 syntec)

BUT, for the oil guru's, do you think Royal Purple 5w30 will be able to handle a track day when the air temp is 35 degrees and god knows what the track temp will be

[Wayne_J]

Ugh...

I came to this thread to determine which oil I should go for... now I'm more confused than ever

I was thinking perhaps one of the Motul blends, but I dunno. Not sure if anyone sells it local to me anyway.

What are you R34GTT mild tune owners using?

Cheers

[Cubes]

For the average street/daily user I strongly believe you really can't go wrong with the Motul 8100 5w40.

I recently had the head off after 70,000km's of use; it was super clean. Bores looked perfect. I couldn't ask for anything more.

If the car is tracked often; not so much of a daily or can justify spending the $$ the 300v is the stuff to use.

After putting the head back on I decided to switch to Shell Synthetic 5w40 the cheap grp3 stuff.

All appeared ok apart from when the oil change approached 4000km's and then cut the filter open at 5000k.

As 4000k approached the lifters would begin to tick slightly on cold start up; nothing major just a slight tick more times than not first thing in the morning.

Cut the filter open - There was a smear of what looked like grease in the inner groove of the pleates.

Motul 8100 5w40 went back in; when that was due an oil change I cracked the filter again; damn it was perfectly clean no lumps of what looked like grease. and lifters had not ticked at all.

So back in went the shell synth 5w40; out it came a 5000k later and there were the lumps of grease again and the lifter tick had returned towards the end of the 5k. :S

I'm not completely sure what was going on with the shell stuff; maybe just a coincidence.

It was black and white to myself as I repeated the test over a couple of times.

For the price the Motul 8100 5w40 really is the best bang for buck. Its a full grp4 base stock PAO oil.

There's no other oil available for that price that is a PAO oil.

Shell, castrol etc are all poo grp3 oils.

[battery]

far out cubes how many Km's have you done in your car?

[Munkyb0y]

For the average street/daily user I strongly believe you really can't go wrong with the Motul 8100 5w40.

i wanted to use a 5w30 (just because nissan recommends a 7.5w30), but that means i'd have to go with Motul 8100 ester e-tech, coz as u said, the Motul 8100 xcess only comes in 5w40

is 5w40 acceptable for 115km rb25?

also, whats the verdict on royal purple motor oil (not racing oil)? is it just all hype and marketing? Ive heard so many conflicting reports about it, i'm going to stay away.

Edited March 23, 2008 by Munkyb0y

[Wayne_J]

For the average street/daily user I strongly believe you really can't go wrong with the Motul 8100 5w40.

I recently had the head off after 70,000km's of use; it was super clean. Bores looked perfect. I couldn't ask for anything more.

If the car is tracked often; not so much of a daily or can justify spending the $ the 300v is the stuff to use.

After putting the head back on I decided to switch to Shell Synthetic 5w40 the cheap grp3 stuff.

All appeared ok apart from when the oil change approached 4000km's and then cut the filter open at 5000k.

As 4000k approached the lifters would begin to tick slightly on cold start up; nothing major just a slight tick more times than not first thing in the morning.

Cut the filter open - There was a smear of what looked like grease in the inner groove of the pleates.

Motul 8100 5w40 went back in; when that was due an oil change I cracked the filter again; damn it was perfectly clean no lumps of what looked like grease. and lifters had not ticked at all.

So back in went the shell synth 5w40; out it came a 5000k later and there were the lumps of grease again and the lifter tick had returned towards the end of the 5k. :S

I'm not completely sure what was going on with the shell stuff; maybe just a coincidence.

It was black and white to myself as I repeated the test over a couple of times.

For the price the Motul 8100 5w40 really is the best bang for buck. Its a full grp4 base stock PAO oil.

There's no other oil available for that price that is a PAO oil.

Shell, castrol etc are all poo grp3 oils.

A pretty good endorsement for Motul 8100 Cubes

Out of interest, roughly how much does 8100 cost?

Thanks

[Cubes]

far out cubes how many Km's have you done in your car?

7years and ~200,000km's of my own km's.

i wanted to use a 5w30 (just because nissan recommends a 7.5w30), but that means i'd have to go with Motul 8100 ester e-tech, coz as u said, the Motul 8100 xcess only comes in 5w40

is 5w40 acceptable for 115km rb25?

also, whats the verdict on royal purple motor oil (not racing oil)? is it just all hype and marketing? Ive heard so many conflicting reports about it, i'm going to stay away.

I ran it in the old RB20 from ~70,000km's to 180,000km's on the clock and also in the RB30DET that now has 80,000km's under its belt.

RB20 still looked good when I pulled it out; comp ratio was perfect as was oil pressure.

A pretty good endorsement for Motul 8100 Cubes

Out of interest, roughly how much does 8100 cost?

Its often $59 at Autobarn or motoquip.

Last time I bought it at Autobarn they slugged me $64 for it but the label price was $59 so they refunded the $5 and I got it for the label price

[Rolls]

I get it from there as well, always been $59 when I've got it.

[Munkyb0y]

i wanted to use a 5w30 (just because nissan recommends a 7.5w30), but that means i'd have to go with Motul 8100 ester e-tech, coz as u said, the Motul 8100 xcess only comes in 5w40

is 5w40 acceptable for 115km rb25?

also, whats the verdict on royal purple motor oil (not racing oil)? is it just all hype and marketing? Ive heard so many conflicting reports about it, i'm going to stay away.

I ran it in the old RB20 from ~70,000km's to 180,000km's on the clock and also in the RB30DET that now has 80,000km's under its belt.

RB20 still looked good when I pulled it out; comp ratio was perfect as was oil pressure.

sorry man. ran what? Royal Purple or 8100 5w40?

Edited March 23, 2008 by Munkyb0y

[Cubes]

sorry man. ran what? Royal Purple or 8100 5w40?

I've never ran royal purple in the skyline.

8100 5w40

Whats the RP sell for? I know its expensive oil. There's only one place locally so I haven't looked in to it.

[Munkyb0y]

from what i've found, its around the $90 mark.

but as i said, there are so many conflicting reports on this stuff. some people swear by it, others say its sub standard. and the company itself doesnt seem to disclose much.

anyway, i think i'll go the 8100 5w40. seems very well priced.

Edited March 23, 2008 by Munkyb0y

[Wayne_J]

Its often $59 at Autobarn or motoquip.

Last time I bought it at Autobarn they slugged me $64 for it but the label price was $59 so they refunded the $5 and I got it for the label price

A reasonable price, thanks for the help

[SS8_Gohan]

Royal Purple is a true GrpIV oil.... there have been reports Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec have dropped back to GrpIII without telling anyone as they reckon it's "near enough" to a full synthetic, so feel they didn't have to tell anyone

Put Royal Purple in my 34, and will probably stick with it, bout $70 for 5litres. It copped a few saturdays ago, 30+ degrees, Sandown (track day), oil temps never above about 105 degrees, and the oil pressure was good throughout the day. Haven't checked it yet, but seemed to do it's job on the track on a very hot day.

[some_cs_student]

Put Royal Purple in my 34, and will probably stick with it, bout $70 for 5litres. It copped a few saturdays ago, 30+ degrees, Sandown (track day), oil temps never above about 105 degrees, and the oil pressure was good throughout the day. Haven't checked it yet, but seemed to do it's job on the track on a very hot day.

$70 for 5 litres? Try Harold from Performancelub next time.

His oils are cheap and he sells the "German" castrol, I might try Royal Purple next.

Regards,

Gareth

[SS8_Gohan]

hey Gareth , i got it from harold, $11.99 per quart, and you need about 6, $71 - i was just putting it into a more friendly measurement, litres instead of quarts. But it's still around $70 for an oil change

didn't i tell you about Harold!?

That's what i was referring to, German Castrol, Castrol Syntec. It seems anything OTHER than 0w30 is made in the US with GrpIII grade oil, and oil the 0w30 is made in Germany from GrpIV. Who knows really...

so that's why i went with RP. Might do a bit more research and give the Castrol 0w30 a shot if i can confirm it's still GrpIV

[br3ndan]

ive been using mobile 1 5w-50w.(Fully Syn) However im finding 50 a little bit too thick, as i am getting some lifter noises. What i am plan to do is move on to mobile 1 0w-40w. (Fully Syn). and i might add some "lifter free" to try and clean out those lifters.

What do u guys think off this?

From what ive read so far, it seems that it should be a good swap. But extra info is always good =)