Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jesus Christ! Just spent half a day reading through all 42 pages of this thread.

I have an R34 GTR and wanted to know what engine oil to use at the next service. It has been getting Mobil 1, but I know there are better ones out there for a premium which I am willing to pay for.

The odometer says 50k but I am not too sure about that - engine is mechanically sound though. It's mainly used for spirited street driving and commuting. My oil temp hardly goes over 90 deg. I am not sure whether it runs rich or not, but I do get some popping noises out the exhaust occasionally - is this mis-firing??. Mods include dump/front pipes, catback exhaust, AFC boost controller at 1.1 max boost, some cam gearing. I live in Melbourne so temp of 0-40deg year round.

I was tryiing to decide between the following:

Motul 300V Chrono 10W-40 (seems to be the most popular motul oil on SAU)

Motul 300V Power 5W-40

Motul 300V Power Racing 5W-30

All three of these have the "double ester technology".

Also on the redline site it recommends 10W-40 for GTRs. I have read redline is good but not as good as the 300V??

Also that the smaller the range the better as there are less additives. As my oil temp usually doesn't go near 100 deg, would then the 5W-30 be better than the others? I am a bit worried that it might be too light a viscosity? But if I'm running rich it should be ok??

Thanks very much for advice. Greatly appreciated.

Edited by Phatboy

wouldn't bother with a 10w from what you're describing. Don't be worried about an 0w or 5w oil

0w30 or 5w30

Redline is better than Motul

there's a group of Group 4 and 5 based oils that is mentioned a lot in this thread, and also a website where to get the best ones.

ye well i have a r33 series 2 gst....and yes its time soon for another oil and filter change.the oil you put in your car is important.and at the end of the day you get what you pay for.and guess what they never seem to throw out the good stuff on specials.like mobile1 0-40 w or motul 0-40w or the less liked catrol edge 0-40w all the good stuff in oils and about say 80 to 90 bucks for 5litres.

yes the mobil1 is good am using it now.lasts longer, i found and doesnt soot up and thin as early.i have mobile1 5-50w and will switch to the mobil1 0-40w for increased performance and fuel economy.so there you go i am even spending for a 0-40w performance iol in my r33 which will only be mainly for cruising and street use.

Also on the redline site it recommends 10W-40 for GTRs. I have read redline is good but not as good as the 300V??

Also that the smaller the range the better as there are less additives. As my oil temp usually doesn't go near 100 deg, would then the 5W-30 be better than the others? I am a bit worried that it might be too light a viscosity? But if I'm running rich it should be ok??

I believe the Redline and Motul that you've mentioned are more towards performance oils. Don't know which Redline is better than which Motul. You will need to get into the specs for each of them to compare.

Smaller the viscosity range usually has less Viscosity Modifier in it. Meaning it will hold its viscosity more percise and longer than a wider range oil.

5W30 is a bit thin if manufacturer recommends 10W40.

If price is not a concern, I will recommend running Mobil1 0W40 with good oil filter for 5000km OCI for good cold start-up protection with the turbo.

Hope this helps.

5w30 is fine for street use, especially for a R34 GTR. If there is considerable track work, you MAY think about upping it a bit...

Redline = Group 5 based oil

Motul = Group 4 based oil

(and this is in regards to the types of products we would select from these companies)

generally speaking then, Redline is better than Motul

5w30 is fine for street use, especially for a R34 GTR. If there is considerable track work, you MAY think about upping it a bit...

Redline = Group 5 based oil

Motul = Group 4 based oil

(and this is in regards to the types of products we would select from these companies)

generally speaking then, Redline is better than Motul

Correct me if I'm wrong but the Motul 300V range is a Group 5 base oil, the 8100 range is a blend of group 4 and 5.

Yeah i was pretty sure the 300V range is a group 5 oil. Personally i have never used the redline engine oils, we sell both motul and redline at work but i always use the Motuls for engine oil and redline for gearbox. What information makes you think that the top of the range redline is better then the 300V? I've had training done by the Motul reps through Link Performance and i'm pretty sure the 300V range is pretty much one of the best oils you can buy in Australia.

Thanks for everyone's advice. Yeah, looked around but didn't find any definitive info that redline engine oil >> motul 300V due to higher group oil.

Both seem good, but I think as PM-R33 said, Motul engine oils are popular as one of the best you can buy whereas redline is renowned for gearbox lubrication.

Think I will stick with the tried and true Motul 300V.... 5W-30 will do the trick I think.

I've had training done by the Motul reps through Link Performance and i'm pretty sure the 300V range is pretty much one of the best oils you can buy in Australia.

It is good to have someone who works in the industry and has contact to Motul reps.

It would be worthwhile to get some information on the blends of PAO/Easter and formulating composition on their 300V series of engine oil.

It is interesting to see how the Motul AU website has some much descriptive information on base stock oil with no numerical specs whereas ExxonMobil has little to say about base stock oil but quite detail record of numerical specs.

anyone run 10w40 Nulon fully synthetic? any feedback on this oil?

I've got R32gtst with about 130,xxxkms, what do u reckon about those viscoscity?

should i run thinner in winter?

Haven't heard anything about Nulon. It will be good to hear from someone who tried.

Viscosity should use whatever is recommended in the driver manual, it aims for average driver in average weather condition.

You should really start to consider a thicker oil only if it is starting to burn oil because of worn out internal engine parts.

Running a 5W or 0W will help with winter cold-startup.

Hope this helps.

Edited by slidetaker

What do you guys reckon I should use for my r32 gtr... Car has been rebuilt with forgies less than 25000kms ago so is still a fairly new engine. I'm thinking of using royal purple but was wondering whether i should go 5w30 or 10w40? I wanted something like 5w40??? Thought 30 might be too thin...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...