The Goods On Oils

[siksII]

I coulda delivered a 5L Sougi to your door for $75

Too late now! For $75 I would have probably just shelled out the extra for 300v. I guess 300v is as good as it gets in terms of proven(for Nissans) and on paper performance so for peace of mind I dont mind paying the extra. Especially since im not doing that well with 8100.

You should get some tested to check out its additive package so we can compare with 300v

[Hibino]

Ok so since a lot of people are just naming oils saying they are good or bad etc, it would be good if we could get a lot of opinions on their top 5 oils.

Ignoring value for money etc just the top 5 oils (you can get easily) you'd use.

[KrazyKong]

My top 5 oils regardless of money...

1) Redline

2) Motul 300V

3) Royal Purple

4) GW Sougi S 6000

5) Motul 8100

[KrazyKong]

Too late now! For $75 I would have probably just shelled out the extra for 300v. I guess 300v is as good as it gets in terms of proven(for Nissans) and on paper performance so for peace of mind I dont mind paying the extra. Especially since im not doing that well with 8100.

You should get some tested to check out its additive package so we can compare with 300v

By extra you mean an extra $75 lol. The main problem with 300V is it doesn't come in a 5L bottle, but a 4L. Thus you have to then fork out an additional $60 for the 2L on top of the nearly $100 for the 4L.

You can't go wrong with Sougi either, but the 300V is you're prepared to pay the $$ is a top choice.

[Birds]

Too late now! For $75 I would have probably just shelled out the extra for 300v. I guess 300v is as good as it gets in terms of proven(for Nissans) and on paper performance so for peace of mind I dont mind paying the extra. Especially since im not doing that well with 8100.

You should get some tested to check out its additive package so we can compare with 300v

Damn Kong beat me to it...I was going to say, doesn't your sump take more than 4 litres? I thought most were about 4.5. For $75 you wouldn't have had to leave your house

But the Motul is an awesome oil, you won't go wrong with it...

Haha I don't want to get Sougi tested and have possibly more people find out it's the bomb = less oil for me left in GW's depleting stocks. But be my guest

Ok so since a lot of people are just naming oils saying they are good or bad etc, it would be good if we could get a lot of opinions on their top 5 oils.

Ignoring value for money etc just the top 5 oils (you can get easily) you'd use.

I have a couple of on pars so it's not exactly a top 5 but same deal:

1. Motul 300V / Sougi 6000

2. Royal Purple / Redline

3. Elf (if only they made a 10w40) / Amsoil

4. Sougi M5000 (thus far proving good but hasn't had the test of time yet)

5. Syn-X 3000

[BASHO]

i really hope thats not the case for the 08 wrx's. Read the whole thread on the REX forum. They seem to advise against fully synthetic as it 'glazes' the pistons...and some guy reckons his engine blew from 300v!!? Doubt it was the 300v, the best oil I have ever used in my GTR. Still have to talk to the subaru service centre.

Wouldn't have anything to do with him putting two zillion PSI through it ?? nah that wouldn't count

[siksII]

By extra you mean an extra $75 lol. The main problem with 300V is it doesn't come in a 5L bottle, but a 4L. Thus you have to then fork out an additional $60 for the 2L on top of the nearly $100 for the 4L.

You can't go wrong with Sougi either, but the 300V is you're prepared to pay the $$ is a top choice.

Damn Kong beat me to it...I was going to say, doesn't your sump take more than 4 litres? I thought most were about 4.5. For $75 you wouldn't have had to leave your house

But the Motul is an awesome oil, you won't go wrong with it...

Haha I don't want to get Sougi tested and have possibly more people find out it's the bomb = less oil for me left in GW's depleting stocks. But be my guest

Yeah it does take 4.5L. Its annoying that the bottles come in 4L but look at it this way - I bought two 4L bottles - thats 8L. I will have over 3L left over. This means that I only need to buy a single bottle for the next 3 changes. If you buy 4L+2L its a rip off.

I change oil around 3 times per year so whenever there is a sale on ill usually stock up anyhow. I guess if you dont change your oil often then it seems like a big initial outlay though.

You cant get that many oils off the shelf in most places around Sydney.. so my list is pretty limited

-300v (group V)

-Royal purple (group IV)

-8100 (group IV)

Pretty much everything else you can buy easily in 10 or 5w-40 is mineral oil.

[Galois]

Good, I've heard nothing but good reports about YJ's. Splitfire are awesome in their own right but I challenge someone to tell the difference between the two (besides the colour). Get them and use 1.1mm plugs and you'll be running sweet.

Engine probably does rev up faster...smooth is fast and there's less inertia with a light synthetic oil like Sougi.

heya, i know this isn't the place to ask but wanted to get some fresh opinions (ie: ones that aren't 7 years old) as a band-aid solution, how does wrapping electrical tape round the coilpacks rate as a temporary fix?

Edited June 12, 2010 by Galois

[Birds]

Rates well as it is the cracks that develop in the housing of the coil packs that result in misfire...

But it's on par with putting Redline Shockproof in your ailing gearbox...get the friggen thing reconditioned!

[siksII]

I should have time to replace my oil on Saturday. As pessimistic as I am about this, I will try my best to sense any perceptible difference after the change

Worked on the car on Saturday, I did not perceive any difference to the way the car ran. If no one told me it was changed I wouldnt have known the difference. This going from punished 8100 5w40 to brand new 10w40 300v. I do expect to see some differences in the UOA when next oil change comes around. Did someother work on the car and noticed a difference in every other change I made (plugs, air filter, caster bush adjustment)

[Galois]

it's a tall order to expect to be able to tell the difference if several things are changed at once, esp when the changes are meant to make the car run smoother, like plugs and air filter, the oil change difference can be dwarfed by them.

also, you're going from group IV 8100 to group V 300V after only 3000km ( ? can't remember exactly), both good oils with a lot of performance fans. if you really want to know what everyone else on here is talking about with oil perception, put something really shitty in for 500km and see if you can tell. i recommend magnatec lol.

[some_cs_student]

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I have a couple of on pars so it's not exactly a top 5 but same deal:

1. Motul 300V / Sougi 6000

2. Royal Purple / Redline

3. Elf (if only they made a 10w40) / Amsoil

4. Sougi M5000 (thus far proving good but hasn't had the test of time yet)

5. Syn-X 3000

Just curious why you have Royal Purple are your no 2 an Amsoil as no 3?

I know Royal purple is a mix of group III/IV/V from what I've read, I haven't heard anything that good about it except the marketing, have you used it much?

Amsoil I'm not so sure about either, I would personally have Mobil 1 in there somewhere, and German Castrol would be near the top for me

I've used Amsoil, German Castrol, and normal Castrol, I can't recall if I used Mobil 1 at some stage.

[Birds]

Royal Purple has quite a bit of word of mouth going about (it's had notable mention throughout this thread if I recall correctly), I've actually seen very little marketing of it myself, beyond infiltration of enthusiast circles. But from our workshop's experience a very good oil - we actually considered distributing for them before settling on GW. Amsoil was another one.

The GW ones I've had the most experience with but that's no coincidence.

My problem with Mobil 1 is much the same as Shell Helix Ultra, it's frequently marketed in print media and yet I haven't heard much good on the car enthusiast grapevine in Australia. Both Mobil and Shell have really gone Eurotrash. Add to this that it doesn't come in my favourite 10w40 grade and it doesn't make my list. The only reason Elf scraped in is because of 5w40 being just shy of it.

[BASHO]

I've just come across a motor that the OE spec in our temp range (0c and up) is 15x40 thier spec on 10x40 is -15c to 20c any suggestions on this one ?

Edited June 14, 2010 by BASHO

[Birds]

Can you re-word that man it sounds a bit confusing?

[BASHO]

Can you re-word that man it sounds a bit confusing?

OK , I've got manufacturers spec in the ambient 0-20c temp range of 10wx40 and in the 15c and up ambient temp range of 15wx40 any sugestions--oh and what little wonder of a manufacturer came up with that one---why BMW --of course.

[Birds]

Nup, it's not working for me LOL sorry. Trying to workout whether I don't understand your terms or you're not saying it properly haha. Anyone else?

[siksII]

I think what Basho means is that he has found that BMW recommends using 10w40 in climates between 0-20deg and 15w40 in climates over 15deg.

Basho, when I mentioned follow the manufacturer spec, this is car specific so look in the user manual for your car and follow that rather than the recommendation for any other engine.

For example the standard oil recommended for an RB25 is 7.5w30.

[Galois]

agreed.

also remember to take climate into account, eg: on average its hotter in aus than in japan.

and that oil requirements change over the life of an engine, and that every car is different ie: different cars are happy with different oils

[Birds]

Ahhh I see now. Yeah generally speaking I would say follow the manufacturer's specification assuming it is tailored to Australian climates (or like BMW did, i.e. specified temperature and appropriate viscosity). Just make sure you take into account worn engine tolerances down the track...it will eventually require a heavier viscosity than specified in an owner's manual.