Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its more the point of why buy a crap so called 'synthetic' grpIII oil when for the same price u can get another brand that is based on the 'better' grpiv.

I run the Motul 5w40 for $59.

Beats the crap out of the Castrol 5w30 and Shell 5w40 of which are grp3 based and strangely my motor appears to use a little oil each change at 5k. The Motul 5w40 or Mobil 5w50 it doesn't use a drop. Interestingly they are both grpiv oils.

The fact that he/she is changing at 5K intervals does negate part of the problem, assuming he doesn't change his oil filter every 5K with it, but there are better oils out there.

However, I just disagree with the "ask your local autobarn for there recommendation" when we have a huge discussion and a summary of the oils in the first post.

There's been plenty of effort to guide people on what oils to buy, I'm not an expert but at least I've researched my opinion.

I run 98 octane fuel only in my Skyline, its what its tuned for.

I just dont see any concrete evidence about which oil is better than another apart from these used oil tests (no I cbf sifting through 48 pages to look for them either), fyi I did read this thread and some of the associated links before I selected the oil I was going to use, even Mobil 1 oil is around 80 bucks a bottle for 0w/40, and I use more than 5 litres of oil in a service (due to the bigger sump).

Not all salespeople are clueless morons either. I know of 2 guys who work at different parts franchise shops here who are Skyline owners and very knowledgeable.

The main reasons I ended up going with the Castrol were the fact that several mates use it in their Skylines which do get driven hard regularly and over a long period, and my parents have always used it in their RB30 Patrol which has just gone over 400 000km and still running fine, which suggests to me that it cant be as bad as some of you are making out.

The one and only time I've seen oil make a performance difference was when a local performance mechanic gave me a demonstration of an LS1 running Pennzoil 5w30 on a dyno, which then had the oil immediately changed to Martini 0w40 IIRC for a 3rwkw gain. Therefore if I were to try anything else it would be that first.

Btw, what is wrong with changing the oil filter at 5000km?

Technically, for 5W30, Motul X-max(5W30) has a closer viscosity than X-cess(5W40). There are also Mobil1 5W30 silver bottle silver cap that I have seen around. So there are heaps of choices. Not just Castrol....

I see no advantage in using higher quality based stock oil if a person is doing 3 summer months, 5000km OCI driving in grandma style....

So there is no good or bad oil, just depends on your application, OCI, driving style, weather conditions....

I see no advantage in using higher quality based stock oil if a person is doing 3 summer months, 5000km OCI driving in grandma style....

So there is no good or bad oil, just depends on your application, OCI, driving style, weather conditions....

The average skyline isn't driven grandma style. The grpiii based oils I have tried all have been consumed slightly by the motor. The grpiv oils however not a drop.

I am just exaggerating, I am sure you understand what I am trying to say.

In terms of oil consumption, that's a perfect example. If you find out that with the conditions of your engine and your driving style, Edge Sport did seem to be burnt off more than X-cess. That X-cess is perfect for you.

P.S. personally, I think oil consumption have more to do with viscosity VS oil pressure and add packs than based stock oil.

I can agree with cubes, in my mildly tuned r34 the motul xcess 8100 5-40 has really improved the way the car runs.. It doesnt burn almost any oil, in my last 3 changes. However i have seen a drop of oil leak say every week.. Wondering if a move to a 10w-40 would help the slight leak..

However all in all the xcess 8100 has really tested itself- i find it stays golden till about 4000kms and then starts to slowly go darker so by 5000km it looks dark. Great oil for the money :D

i'm going to try the martini oil then the motul just to satisfy myself to see if there is any difference compared to the castrol.

Now can anyone shed any light on whether Redline Shockproof Lightweight is really any good for going into a Stagea manual box with a noisy 4th syncro, or am I better off just getting any synthetic 80w90?

...doesnt burn almost any oil, in my last 3 changes. However i have seen a drop of oil leak say every week.. Wondering if a move to a 10w-40 would help the slight leak..

If it is just a drop every week, I would not worry about it. You could try to trace it so you know exactly where it is leaking from. Probably just some bolts and nuts not tight enough.

In terms of oil consumption, that's a perfect example. If you find out that with the conditions of your engine and your driving style, Edge Sport did seem to be burnt off more than X-cess. That X-cess is perfect for you.

P.S. personally, I think oil consumption have more to do with viscosity VS oil pressure and add packs than based stock oil.

The RB30 is a forklift motor so that probably explains a bit. :blink:

I did not split the oil filter open with the castrol 5w30 but with the shell 5w40 i found little lumps of what looked like grease.

I then ran Motul.. no sludge in the filter.

I switched between oils a few times. Everytime the shell stuff deposited sludgy lumps in to the filter.

Maybe thats where the 5w40 Shell was burning/sludging off too :D

There is sludge and vanish build up in the valvetrain area and then there is sludge like material clogging the oil filter. I believe they are different, just think about the temperature different between these two areas.....

Then there should not be a relation between burning (oil consumption) and sludging..

Burning will likely leave carbon deposit in and around components of the chamber...

Sludging are more due to high heat and baked-dry up oil....

Don't know may be someone who have more experience can chip in.....

Definitely. I was a little misleading stating consumed when in fact it was being caught in the filter as slight sludge.

The motor has been rebuilt, always had regular oil changes. I can't comment on the bottom end but the top end and cam covers are super clean inside.

Hey guys new to SAU and have just brought a 93 r32 gtst with 121xxx km's which is stock standard.

Im wanting to do oil changes for engine, gearbox and diff. After reading the post think i've decided on motul 300v but still not 100% sure for the engine but have no idea on gearbox or diff oils? also how much oil does engine, gearbox and diff hold? Prices and avalibilty isn't a problem as i work at the local repco store but would rather take advise from you guys/girls because repco only know holden/ford best lol.

thanks.

^ rb25 takles around 3.7-3.8 L of engine oil.

diff is around 2L

and gearbox is around 2.2L

does anyone know whats a good & recommended fully synthetic oil for a neo rb25de ?

cheers

my 34 takes 5 and a bit litres of engine oil, not sure where you're getting 3.7 from?? :rofl:

does anyone know whats a good & recommended fully synthetic oil for a neo rb25de ? have you read anything in here??

my rb26 has over a 100k on the dail whats a recomended oil, sumthin with a lil more thickness to it???

No, as per previous discussion in the thread you do not need to buy thicker oil as the engine gets older.

apprently 10w-40/15w-40 is recommended for RB's?

narrowing it down to these 2..

Penrite Sin oil 15 15w-40

elf competition GT 10w-40

currently using mobil 1 syn-s 10w-40 and afaik isn't available anymore & has been replaced with another name, mobil 2000 or something.

gonna change to fully synthetic to either one of the above mentioned ones.

car is due for a change in a months time so see how it goes then.

ive read that with the full synthetic oils, they still stay the gold colour after 4000km.

with the current oil im using, it starts to change colour after 2500~km, im guessing the oil im using isn't that good?

any opinions with the 2 oils ive chosen ?

wheres the cheapeast place in syd to get either of the 2?

cheers

Edited by dori32

hey guys....what would be the best oil for a noisy rb manual gear box.. i know ive ogtta get it rebuilt soon.... but gotta hold off until i have the coin... is there any oils ( i think thicker is better ) to quiet it down a lil?? cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...