Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i already got polyglass in my doors ... and yes i will be sound deadening it as part of the installation ... i want 6.5's ... the polyglass were a bitch to fit but it fit ... i don't know the depth of the utopias ... i have a feeling that it will be bigger and if it is then i dont' think they will fit ... as the glass were quite a sqeeze ...

My Focal bochure says both mount in a 142mm hole and the mounting depth of the 165W (utopia) is 78mm compared to 69mm for the 165V (Polyglass).

It doesn't state the diameter of either magnet but from the pictures I'd say they are about the same with the Utopia maybe 5mm bigger.

  • 2 weeks later...

i found i had to create a spacer, and take the factory grills off, and hack some of the door trim off (to widen the holes to clear the rubber on the utopias), they extend a little too much for the door trim :(

only problem is now trying to cover the speakers, passanger side is easy, fairly flat but drivers side is too curved :) (upwards toward s the window controls etc) sound awesome though!

  • 3 weeks later...

hey bless u .. sorry for not getting back to u :) .. i lost this thread and am now looking again .. i've changed my mind on the utopias :) .. i'm going to be getting some JL's now ... the XR's i think they are called?? anyone know much about these?? how much they rrp for?? i think they are cheaper than utopias ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...