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are there better options outside of nissan?

well the coronas are pretty tuff...

theres an 'avante' model with a 2.4 liter 4cyl. can get them under 2k

the toyota tarago (smooth shape) has the 100kw version of the engine, can do head swaps etc and get a pretty decent setup as they have a fair bit of torque...

but its hard to go past an R31.....

in some drift series thing that was in tassie 2 of the podium placers were R31s

look for 'jpriseman' as he was one of the place takers....

Another car is a cressida.... they are a bit more exxy but really strong if you put a thicker headgasket in etc...

i reckon just go for the R31,

even a R31 pintara with a CA18det if you like revs!

Yeah 31, c'mon surely you've heard of Fatz, Easo, and the stuff that the Drift Battle Lads got up to with the wags a while ago :thumbsup:

Youtube 'DriftMajik', for a long time there he was just running a locked diff, stock RB30e and some stiff springs... really cutting sick and ripping it up the bigger toys.

rb30 with a mild cam and a turbo.. extra injectors.. good tune.. 4.11's.. good clutch.. locker.. strip the f**k out of it.. cage it.. alloy rad.. good cooler.. oil cooler.. and your off.. prob all up under 8k including car

too much f*cking around to go with those injectors, RB30 use hosetail type injectors, so you'll need a custom/aftermarket rail, then you gotta make sure you got the right impedence (dunno what skylines use) and then remap. just buy bigger straight fit ones and remap IMO. stock VLT injectors will top out just shy of 200rwkw (although a few have gone over 200) and that should be enough for 'cheap' drifting

Yeah, wanna stick with n/a and cheap so i can't really see myself hittin 200rwkw. Was just hoping that they used similar enough injectors... Don't really know too much bout rb30's :P

hmm where to start....a gtst or its cousins the cefiro or laurel is preffered, how ever it can be done with a R32 gts4 and gtr's by pulling the 4wd fuse and installing a switch for when you decide to play in the sandpit."thats what i did"

jenny craig, the maximum you should have in the car is a seat,seat belt, three pedals, a handbrake and half a dashboard...along with the sterring wheel and column

then its the forum,s no use buy bling bling rims as they wont take long to get so dirty and scratched

you'd think you bought them from the scrap yard anyway, 16 or 17 inch should do for starters.

even sets of two's as you'll note when you watch the drifting the back and fronts are missmatched anyway.

followed by the shoe shop, ya dont need new ones, just good condition second hand ones and a few nearly bald ones for practicing on,

then next its off to the cogswapper shop for an overhaul you can drift an auto"i do due to a knee injury" how ever a manual is preffered, stock boxes dont last long being quick shifted as it is hard on the sincro's i had a box last only the first corner 1st 2nd then nothing stripped third.

then its time to stiffin the b*tch up, get here resting nice n snug on the road, you dont need anything flash to start with, just some king springs and a GOOD set of shocks for those ripple strips the ass end is going to be driving most of the day and followed by good bushes, whitle line nolethene etc etc,

if you feel the car's factory lsd is worn to the point it wont work effectivley anymore now is the time to get a new one as it will be needed anyway, usually overhauled every 8 to 12 months or between seasons.

good front brakes, when using the feint method of drifting have the brake bias toward the front as when applying the brake is will shift the wieght forward onto the front wheels making it easier tobrake traction on the rear, leave the rears standard just good pads and fluid there as the hand brake will do most of the work on the back brakes

you'll need a good catch can with two inlets and a breather aswell as a drain back fitting to the sump as the track marshalls will probably require you to have one, must hold atleast a litre but most guys go for ones that can hold half the crank case volume.

that will get you started, you dont need massive horse power to drift, just need to learn how to use the vehical enursia to shift it side ways, feinting is the term used pull left then back right for example, when the weight of the vehical is back on the right side pull the hand brake to break the rear wheels from traction and dump the clutch stomping the accelerator and it will power steer out, correct the front wheel direction and let her slide,

the other way is to over power, this form requires torque from the engine come into the corner wide, change down dumping the clutch as above and the rear will slide out.

the other form is rather technical it requires no braking what so ever, go into the corner at speed letting the vehicals sideways enersia taking the rear out ,control the slide with the accelerator, the more gas you give it the further sideways the vehical will want to travel. as it does this the vehical will want to slow, this is how rally drivers take corners on gravel, so hp and torque are essential to overcome the high grip levels of tarseal.

then a hydralic hand brake as the stock one you got there wont last a day of continual stretching, ensure it has no ratchet just a pull lever.

good luck.

post-50030-1214526708_thumb.jpg

post-50030-1214526732_thumb.jpg

hmm where to start....a gtst or its cousins the cefiro or laurel is preffered, how ever it can be done with a R32 gts4 and gtr's by pulling the 4wd fuse and installing a switch for when you decide to play in the sandpit."thats what i did"

cef's and laurels are worth 12k stock over here.....

not exactly cheap

and in all honesty they need a cage or they flop around badly.

Otherwise, they are great cars. I'd love to get a laurel for a daily to be honest.

the minimum requirement for the stil vodka drift series as a entry level competiton, rollcage, fire extginguisher and a fia approved harness and helmet and fireproof suit, other wise you car could be stock standard for all they care aslong as the saftey requirments are met............as the D1NZ is too comercialised and you need a good 60 to 100 grand just to do one full year,

also the cars are road legal warrant and rego.

you'll need a rollcage anyway so it sort makes it irralavent weather your chassis got flex or not.

wow 12 g for a laurel. last one i picked up was rb20det manual with lsd for 4 g with fresh gloss black paint.

but thats what happens when your govenment lets the country get flooded with grey imports, the prices fall through the floor and you can see a potential drag,race,sprint,rally car parked on every studentflat's front lawn.

so much was the demand for go fast cars there are more grey import nissan skylines here then holden commodores

Bare minimum requrements;

RWD

Manual

Welded/Locked diff

Hardcore weight saving - I am assuming this wont be your daily so piss off EVERYTHING that weights more than 100grams and is not ESSENTIAL for the car to move (Air con, power steering, all interior, audio etc.)

Then;

HD Clutch

Front and rear strut and sway bars

Second hand coilovers

Decent tyres for the front

Still have money? Take care of the intake and exhaust of the car and something to bump up power (FMIC & Boost/Cams ecu tune)

Your looking at less than 3K for all of the above and you have yourself an awesome starting point to catapult yourself into the world of drifting.

What are your options?

R31

R32 (a little more expensive)

S12

S13

KE70

AE86 (a little more expensive)

Out side the typical "drift car" box you also have

MA70's

RX7 S1/2

And i have seen Ghetto Volvo's that go sideways very well!

Have a look around and see what your budget alows you to buy and what you want/like

ok... so i have now got my hands on:

RB20det

GTT turbo

GTST injectors

GTT fuel pump

SAFC 1

Rays Gram lights 57max 17X8 / 17x9 (5 stud 114.3)

what's the best shell to whack this into for CHEAP? R31 / R32?

basically just need car w aiiight gearbox/panels, and a busted motor.

apparently the old corrolla ( AE71 - I think ) can be made to drift really well without going overboard spending... Drop a 4AGZE into it and if that aint fast enough turf the supercharger and turbo it. As far as I am aware the Hilux diff and gearbox isnt to hard to install..

ok... so i have now got my hands on:

RB20det

GTT turbo

GTST injectors

GTT fuel pump

SAFC 1

Rays Gram lights 57max 17X8 / 17x9 (5 stud 114.3)

what's the best shell to whack this into for CHEAP? R31 / R32?

basically just need car w aiiight gearbox/panels, and a busted motor.

umm..

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?s...60&hl=shell

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?s...13&hl=shell

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?s...36&hl=shell

Yeah 31, c'mon surely you've heard of Fatz, Easo, and the stuff that the Drift Battle Lads got up to with the wags a while ago :whistling:

Youtube 'DriftMajik', for a long time there he was just running a locked diff, stock RB30e and some stiff springs... really cutting sick and ripping it up the bigger toys.

10 minutes of my life not wasted.

Thanks.

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