Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would the interior roof Leds be brighter than conventional factory bulbs?

I've put some similar Leds in mine and whilst they look better than the factory bulb

I find that the penetration of the light is still quite poor like they were 10,000K HIDs compared to 4300K HIDs

Would the interior roof Leds be brighter than conventional factory bulbs?

I've put some similar Leds in mine and whilst they look better than the factory bulb

I find that the penetration of the light is still quite poor like they were 10,000K HIDs compared to 4300K HIDs

Thats because it was the type of LED you were using, if it was HIGH OUT PUT SMD it would be 3-4 times brighter than your conventional bulbs.

Thats because it was the type of LED you were using, if it was HIGH OUT PUT SMD it would be 3-4 times brighter than your conventional bulbs.

sorry missed that one...

so does this mean you will be using the High output bulbs for the interior at some point? if so i would be interested in seeing them :P

sorry missed that one...

so does this mean you will be using the High output bulbs for the interior at some point? if so i would be interested in seeing them :O

Those are the High Out put ones...

Just pictures don't do justice as the aperature can only capture so much light!

We urge you to give them a try , cheap and nice upgrade.

Those are the High Out put ones...

Just pictures don't do justice as the aperature can only capture so much light!

We urge you to give them a try , cheap and nice upgrade.

Have you got someone in Sydney who's done it already?

Have you got someone in Sydney who's done it already?

Yes but again its up to the members if they want to post up pics...

and Payment is through paypal or EMT

Contact me or send me a pm with what you want to order i will send you a link to my

paypal.

Heres pics from a meet of GTRCanada members going crazy over them... sold 300 in the meet.

P1020296.jpg

P1020298.jpg

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Yeah i can't see the pictures either.

If this is about the light on the roof then mine has been changed to blue, it looks pretty cool. Everyone always comments on it and it still lights up most the car.

Talk about digging up an old thread :blush:

The pic above is the white, as with my kits it can come out blueish if the dials have the blue film in them (to counteract some of the yellow in the factory bulbs)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...