Jump to content
SAU Community

Emanage Blue Install - Then Dyno

vidospace

By vidospace,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

vidospace Mentor

vidospace

Posted
Posted

OK here is the story. I have got myself a Emanage blue and all the cables and plan on wiring it myself, but I will then need to get it tuned at CRD. My question is, there is no "on/off" switch as such. Can I run the car with the plugs disconnected after it is wired? Should I just put a switch on the 12 volt line? Or should I forget the wiring and get CRD to install the whole thing and tune. I have a lot of experience in soldering car stereo's etc and have wired my EVC already, though this is a different kettle of fish as they say.

And please no smart ass "just get a power fc" comments. I wanted an Emanage, so get over it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225683-emanage-blue-install-then-dyno/
Share on other sites
vidospace Mentor

vidospace

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have all necessary cabling including the RB25 Neo ignition adapter that is required to prevent the killing of said coil packs. The question I have is about running the car with the Emanage disconnected.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
I have all necessary cabling including the RB25 Neo ignition adapter that is required to prevent the killing of said coil packs. The question I have is about running the car with the Emanage disconnected.

install and then get it towed there or use a gas soldering iron and do it in the carpark at CRD...simple

Edited by DiRTgarage
666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
I have all necessary cabling including the RB25 Neo ignition adapter that is required to prevent the killing of said coil packs. The question I have is about running the car with the Emanage disconnected.

That purpose of that adapter is to stop the check engine light coming up, doesn't stop you nuking coils.

You need to put a 3.3V Zener diode in, wired in reverse bias with the ignition signal wire to each pack. This lets an overflow voltage of 1.7v (instead of 5v) to trigger the coils and no constant parasitic current flow that will melt them in minutes.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
THAT IS 100% BULLSHIT.

Common knowledge that it keeps a constant (dwell) current flowing to the packs, the type afflicted are R33 Series 2, R34's, S15's etc etc where the ignitor is inbuilt. Other cars to cop it use a similar setup, most notebly the Mazda RX-8 where I think the issue was first seen overseas.

I've seen R34's with smoking packs after a 10 minute dyno run with a freshly installed (correctly) blue.

The ignitor signal is also quite a high voltage in comparison to the trigger voltage....5v minimum on the emanage blue, it should be sitting around 1.5-17v MAX

So unless Firmware updates have solved the issue (and even if they have) are you really going to argue putting in a $1.20 mod just in case?

Covered many times on e-manage forums as well, after I first discovered the issue some time back

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage/message/5191

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage/message/5927

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
fitted heaps with no issues. done about 10 S15's in the last 2 months, 4or 5 R34 GTT's and a few Rx8's (turboed) all with no issues....

Must have fixed the firmware to prevent the leaking current? I wouldn't count on the packs lasting too long if they haven't regluated the voltage to under 2 volts though.

Why are you still selling/installing the blue...surely you can convince the owners the benefits of the ultimate over something so outdated?

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Must have fixed the firmware to prevent the leaking current? I wouldn't count on the packs lasting too long if they haven't regluated the voltage to under 2 volts though.

Why are you still selling/installing the blue...surely you can convince the owners the benefits of the ultimate over something so outdated?

customers pockets :) lol but seriously the blue plug-ins (R33 and S15 $699 retail) have had bit of a resurgence lately and are so easy to fitand tune a customer can drive out for just over a grand and mod dependant im happy to use them up to 260-280rwkw.... never had a failure or an hurt engine, in fact i can match a PFC KW for KW with the humble blue up to 260-280rwkw on a R33, s13 or S15 .

The craziest thing ive had to do with blue was a full budget built NA s13 SR20 (std 120000km engine) with 740cc nismos, Z32, TD06-17c and 17psi (stupid ebay gate) and the thing was quite an animal.... made me nervous as hell but the customer did all the work and accepted all responsibility for potential disaster... the thing actually sung like a champion and idled like a stocky even with injectors 3times bigger than std which as you know is supposedly no-go with the blue..

i definately prefer the ultimate but the blue is way underated... especially for its $$$$

  • 6 months later...
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
No, it's not bullshit. eManage causes the duty cycle to run too long and the coils die after about 50kms or so, one by one. Like mine did.

yes it is BULLSHIT ive been installing them for nearly 7 years without ONE failure.... ONLY way for it to die is if the adapter is not fitted.

mind you i do more remaps on the R34 now as they are cheaper.

Edited by URAS
  • 1 month later...
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Question... I've had my eManage Blue fitted as part of my turbo conversion in January this year using the ignition harness, optional fuel harness and the ignition signal adapter. Same day one of the packs died (smoke was evident from the coilpack cover).

I had a spare one put in temporarily till I got splitfires, which before I had the chance to get in, I lost 3 coilpacks in the space of 10 minutes last Friday night. Same deal lotsa smoke from the coilpacks and the typical smell.

Now I've got the splitfires in again and it's all good, but I'm worried about losing coilpacks again.

I asked my tuner which firmware they used, they told me 1.11

Now a bit of research on the GReddy site reveals that there have been several updates since.

Should I look at getting the latest firmware flashed and be done with it? Or should I look also at the zenner diodes?

Is wiring in the zenner diodes just as simple as cutting each wire on the ignitino signal adapter and soldering them in between? If this simple cheap mod fixes/prevents the problem it's better than smoking more coilpacks!

WARLORD BAS Collaborator

WARLORD BAS

Posted
Posted

reason why they 'may' fry the coilpacks is because its not tuned correctly.

if you were in meblourne, id say take it to trent (status tuning, uras) hands down you will get the most out of it.

but not sure who tunes these in sydney?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ma...56-t161460.html

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

I've been driving it a bit over month now. The first went the same day. They cleaned up the tune a bit more not long after cause I felt that it was running a bit rich. and it's been over a month since. Just those 3 that went like dominoes last Friday night.

I've been doing more reading on the eManage also on other non-skyline specific sites and other cars have had the issue as well. Some refer to it as the eDamage.

A few people have found the car runs smoother, boosts smoother and doesn't stutter or anything when they bypass the ignition harness.

Problem for me though is that I need the ignition timing control as I'm running a DE+t set up...so right now anything that is going to stop the coilpacks from popping is going to help.

I haven't been able to find any reference to a fix from GReddy themselves yet, so I don't know that updating firmware is definitely going to fix the problem or not. I've heard of people with R34's that have updated firmware and a year later still going well.

If I was in Melbourne there's a few places I would have like to go to, provided they'd tune a DE+t (my biggest problem was finding a tuner for the emanage let along a DE+t with emanage). I'm in Brisbane though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...