Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi peeps, i just recently using V power and i experience it doesnt drink as much fuel. i normaly use BP ultimate but it drink hell alot more then v power.

Iv i heard BP ultimate is better for your engine life, but it drinks alot more but better performance.

So what is the real effect on V power? or doesnt matter what i use.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226059-32-gtr-using-shell-v-power-fuel/
Share on other sites

It has ethanol in it yeah or is it just the old optimax 98?

Honestly I just steer clear of shell these days - optimax just went so downhill whereas bp ultimate always seems to be up to scratch.

Are you still on the standard ECU?

Closed loop mode would be where the fuel saving is coming from where the computer tries to bring mixtures up to stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio.

It has ethanol in it yeah or is it just the old optimax 98?

Honestly I just steer clear of shell these days - optimax just went so downhill whereas bp ultimate always seems to be up to scratch.

Are you still on the standard ECU?

Closed loop mode would be where the fuel saving is coming from where the computer tries to bring mixtures up to stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio.

I got a Power fc so... Oh sht is it bad??

I love V-Power. V-Power Racing has ethanol, there's a difference.

I'm happiest with Shell, but Ultimate is good too. I've been told they both have heaps of additives compared to Vortex though.

I think fuel damaging an engine is overrated. Not changing the oil often enough is something to worry about.

You'll be fine don't worry - it's just a personal preference I just noticed my cars would run differently from tank to tank on optimax. Been on BP only for a good couple of years now so a bit out of the loop.

I had a wierd problem where fuel guage was not registering fuel in the tank for a couple of tanks worth of optimax - filled up with ultimate and fuel guage came back straight away.

I do remember quite a while ago a thread about all of this - apparently back then the Optimax started out as a 91 unleaded then was boosted with toluene aromatics and sulphur or something, whereas the ultimate was brewed as 98 at the refinery - sure there are others on here with expertise in all of this. This was quite a while ago and Shell has changed their fuels around a fair bit so maybe other people that use it regularly might be able to comment.

You'll be fine don't worry - it's just a personal preference I just noticed my cars would run differently from tank to tank on optimax. Been on BP only for a good couple of years now so a bit out of the loop.

I had a wierd problem where fuel guage was not registering fuel in the tank for a couple of tanks worth of optimax - filled up with ultimate and fuel guage came back straight away.

I do remember quite a while ago a thread about all of this - apparently back then the Optimax started out as a 91 unleaded then was boosted with toluene aromatics and sulphur or something, whereas the ultimate was brewed as 98 at the refinery - sure there are others on here with expertise in all of this. This was quite a while ago and Shell has changed their fuels around a fair bit so maybe other people that use it regularly might be able to comment.

You may be right. My wife's BM has started to develop a fuel gauge level that is below what's really in the tank. I complained to Shell who checked only the litres delivered by that bowser. I didn't think it might be the additives. Perhaps I'll try BP for a while...

hi peeps, i just recently using V power and i experience it doesnt drink as much fuel. i normaly use BP ultimate but it drink hell alot more then v power.

Iv i heard BP ultimate is better for your engine life, but it drinks alot more but better performance.

So what is the real effect on V power? or doesnt matter what i use.

Thanks!

Is your driving style the same or do you drive a lot harder on BP a opposed to Shell?

Do you drive the car everyday and take the same route?

Is your driving style the same or do you drive a lot harder on BP a opposed to Shell?

Do you drive the car everyday and take the same route?

im a light footer, i take the same route nearly everyday.

V power feels a bit rough accelerate, while the bp feels smoother.

im a light footer, i take the same route nearly everyday.

V power feels a bit rough accelerate, while the bp feels smoother.

BTW is this Shell V-Power 98 or 100 RON?

I use to run Shell then I went to Mobil Synergy 8000 then made the switch to BP Ultimate as suggested by my mechanic.

I was told that too, shell feels a bit rough on take off... BP seems to be the overall best fuel out of the fuel companies...

I guess whatever works best for your car...

BTW is this Shell V-Power 98 or 100 RON?

I use to run Shell then I went to Mobil Synergy 8000 then made the switch to BP Ultimate as suggested by my mechanic.

I was told that too, shell feels a bit rough on take off... BP seems to be the overall best fuel out of the fuel companies...

I guess whatever works best for your car...

i use v power 98.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I sense an out of control build thread coming up lololol. That 450kW goal will end up being 600 to 700kW LOL.
    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
×
×
  • Create New...