Jump to content
SAU Community

New Wheels/alignment And Offset Woes..help!

elrodeo666
 Share

Recommended Posts

elrodeo666 Mentor

elrodeo666

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok I just bought a set of Enkei RPO5`s and the reccomendation by Enkei for a set of 18`s was a 25 offset! Now in hindsight maybe I should have got the 10`s....http://www.enkei.co.jp/jp/products/wheels/rp05/fitting/index.html

Well we fitted em up yesterday and yep they were way too far in the guard for my liking. Moneys been handed over so I`m stuck with them for now. We put 20mm spacer on the front and 15mm on the back so now they fill up the guards.

Ok the workshop they did a 4 wheel alignment before the spacers were put on. I got back to the shop and we decided it would look better with the spacers. Anyway after driving home I found the car tracking alot so what I am wondering is would the alignment be affected by the spacers or is this just a fact of using spacers. They are good high quality spacers. Or have a just blown a wad of cash and bought some dud rims.

Would a new alignment be in order..

I`ve attatched a before and after alignment settings..image 1 is before..post-43319-1214875383_thumb.jpg

image 2 is after post-43319-1214875398_thumb.jpg

Edited by elrodeo666
elrodeo666 Mentor

elrodeo666

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mate I`m not quite sure what you mean by `spigoted` as for the spacers I`m pretty sure they hubcentric..I`ve attached a pic of what mine look like..mine are similar to these, just different brand. Most of the jap blokes I know here use em..

post-43319-1214908939_thumb.jpg

adam-__- Grand Master

adam-__-

Posted
Posted

When Hamish says 'spigot' he is referring to hub rings. I at first didn't realise what he was talking about either. hahah

Hub centric spacers are useless without hub rings.

1.jpg

Those things. They can come in plastic as well. They just rest on your hubs and your wheels/spacers rest on them. There will be less strain on your studs.

elrodeo666 Mentor

elrodeo666

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers...

I`ll pull a wheel off tomorrow and have a look..

One question I still have is if the all the settings for wheel alignment was done before spacers fitted will things be outta wack now spacers are fitted , I`m not sure on this at all..

adam-__- Grand Master

adam-__-

Posted
Posted
Cheers...

I`ll pull a wheel off tomorrow and have a look..

One question I still have is if the all the settings for wheel alignment was done before spacers fitted will things be outta wack now spacers are fitted , I`m not sure on this at all..

You don't have to pull the wheel off to check if there are hub rings, you should be able to see them unless you've got the caps on the wheels.

There shouldn't be any need to get another wheel alignment as far as I know.

elrodeo666 Mentor

elrodeo666

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Cheers guys...

Just a bit bummed cause the wheels look great and was trying to avoid this problem with offset. Not sure yet but may look at selling the wheels here or sending em back to Oz for sale and get a set of 10"s instead.

So that brings me to my next question would the tyres I have now 18x265x35 be ok on a set of 18x10 rims??

Edited by elrodeo666

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...