Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trust me Pete, the 2500's are the go, you won't be disappointed

yeah so far I'm hearing good things about the DS2500's.....just a little concerned that they might be a little hard on rotors also hearing alot about Bendix Ultimates being a bit dusty but as far as their friction co efficiency goes, they both sound a treat.

I'll reserve my judgement till a bit later I think.

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I brought the Lucas TRW's, haven't had a chance to put them in yet tho. Apparently they are a good pad for a little track work and not as harsh on the rotars as others. Cost was $60 each front and rear.

I've heard good things about the TRW's also, cheap as chips too but I can't comment as I've never used them. Yeah the 2500's might be a little harsher on rotors but in my books the extra stopping power is nice if you need it in an emergency. It's like everything with a car, can't have the best of everything, exceptions must be made sadly :sick:

Project mu HC+. Cant recommend them highly enough. Good braking even when not warmed up, slight brake dust and noise though.

Ryan

Project mu do a good street pad called a B-Spec for street & light track work.......do the HC+ eat rotors Ryan because they have a very high friction rate (over .6) and 800 degrees....they'd have to be pretty noisy for street....any thoughts?

Pete, perhaps consult the manufacturer of your brake rotors to find a pad that will perform well with them - as you mention you don't want something that will chew your rotors too much - the pads are there to be the sacrificial material.

I've also heard great things about the Ferodo DS and TS series pads, and the only thing negative you tend to hear about Ultimates is "DUSTY!".

I've heard good things about EBC Greenstuff, although the Ferodos are supposed to behave similarly and be kinder to rotors.

Also the Redstuff are allegedly quite harsh on rotors but a great grabber once warm.

Please note all of the above is merely second hand information gained by word of mouth from other parties experiences with the products - I've not tested any of them.

EBC have just relaunched there range recently and changed there pads quite a bit from what they used to be. They have done this to compete with the ferodo DS2500 and DS3000.

I am getting some slotted RDA rotors and EBC redstuff pads for my car shortly.

Pete my mate Brad who used to work at ACS uses Hawk pads in his Saloon race car, he got given Bendix race pads before but wasnt as good apparently, so he is back on the Hawks!!

yeah I'm hearing very good things so far about the Hawke HPS pads for street......Hawke HP-Plus are very good too from what I'm hearing but might be abit tuff on rotors.

I'm not sure whether they do a HPS for the Brembo caliper though. Even the QFM A1RM (QLD Friction Materials) pads which appear to be on a par with the Hawke HPS (and on the Group Buy section), want the old Brembo pads to re use the backing plates with their material.

I'm trying to find a happy medium between heat range and friction co efficiency......I used to wrongly think awhile ago that the friction rate of a pad would simultaneously increase as the heat range increased. I also used to wrongly believe that a track pad would never have the same cold bite as a street pad.....not true in all cases.

So going by that theory, why don't we all find a suitable track pad for our street cars if some of them bite well from cold and don't suffer fade at very high temps??.......because they would eat our rotors, we would need earplugs and we would choke in the dust.

Up until recently I was looking at ceramic pads due to the almost zero dust & noise factor, but I dont think they would bite as well as the organics or semi metallics......hence why I'm trying to find a happy medium between rotor wear, dust, bite & long lasting.

My GTR will probably be 85% street use with the ocassional hills run & track day.

I'm definitely no expert in compound compositions so hopefully we can get more input into this thread..........there's already some good info gathering.

I have used hawk pads on my old 32... great bite, excellent on the track, but crap when cold.

Bendix ultimates = waste of money. No good and really dusty.

Have been told from many sources to go with green stuff which is what will be happenning with my GTR in a few weeks along with braided lines and dot 5-6 fluid.

This is a result of boiling my fluid and losing brakes at the last track day.

I have used hawk pads on my old 32... great bite, excellent on the track, but crap when cold. Do you recall which Hawkes you used?

Bendix ultimates = waste of money. No good and really dusty. They're supposed to bite well but yeah, everyone is telling me they're very dusty.

Have been told from many sources to go with green stuff which is what will be happenning with my GTR in a few weeks along with braided lines and dot 5-6 fluid.

This is a result of boiling my fluid and losing brakes at the last track day.

Just had a quick squiz at the various pads peeps are recommending with the Hawkes & Ferodo DS2500's being favoured by those in the know.

Greenstuff seems to be a popular choice too so I did a bit of a search on their specs. For mainly street use I'd want a pad thats rated up to 450 - 500 degrees with .45 - .50 friction rate. For Malalla I'd want up to a 600 degree pad but with similar friction rate. Pads rated up to 800 degrees are going to be useless on the street and I love my rotors too much.

The Greenstuff seems to be rated up to 650 degrees and has a friction rate of .46 ........almost perfect for what I need. Unusually enough though they appear to be a Kevlar pad which tells me they will be expensive.

Has anyone got a contact for these pads ie. "mates rates" and does anyone have any info on the DS2500's.

yeah some good stuff on there Steve.....even SK gets in on the act.

I just got thru searching info on the EBC pads & the manufacturers themselves recommend that you dont use Greenstuff for anything over 200hp but instead use the Redstuff 3000 series.......Yellowstuff & Bluestuff are pretty much track only.

EBC Brakes

Here is this years record holder on a particular section of the Targa using Yellowstuff:

I brought the Lucas TRW's, haven't had a chance to put them in yet tho. Apparently they are a good pad for a little track work and not as harsh on the rotars as others. Cost was $60 each front and rear.

luke, do you know if your craig can get cheap rotors? might see you on the weekend anyway if you down at the workshop :stupid:

oh and if i could afford or at least justify me spending anymore cash on my stupid car then id go project MU HC+ again. they lasted the longest for a mix of street and track work between the 4 or 5 different break pads i used

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...