Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's not the mic you need to worry about, the tiny spy camera in the speedo is MUCH more intrusive. Can you see it, they usually hide it in the 0 of the 140kph.......

But seriously, yeah it's a handsfree mic for a phone kit :whistling:

you're not referring to the 2 shock sensors that are located on either side of the dashboard?

sk_049_01.jpg

if so, then you also have the optional dealer-fitted alarm with optional shock sensors that was an addition to the OEM immobiliser

it doesn't sound when the car is armed but is very loud if you try to open the door manually with the car armed!

it doesn't sound when the car is armed but is very loud if you try to open the door manually with the car armed!

I've got the sensors but it doesn't go off when I open the door when the car is locked. Is there a way to turn it on (and off)?

you have a mongoose alarm fitted to that car and I dare say its a M80G. the sensor you showed is the glassbreak sensor.

SCORP,

do as waz suggested. yours does work as I set the thing off a few times.

try arming it, wait a minute or so, then open with the key in the lock..

if it doesn't work then i have no idea sorry!

but the sensors are definatly a dealer option

setting the alarm then opening the door with the key would disable the alarm (if correctly installed). if you want to try it, set the alarm while you're inside, wait a few seconds then open the door. that should set it off. the dealer option system appears to have a motion sensor - at least on the one that I have. when armed any movement inside the car will set it off.

setting the alarm then opening the door with the key would disable the alarm (if correctly installed). if you want to try it, set the alarm while you're inside, wait a few seconds then open the door. that should set it off. the dealer option system appears to have a motion sensor - at least on the one that I have. when armed any movement inside the car will set it off.

based on the dealer fitted unit that I pull from these cars daily putting the key in the door and opening it sets it of. likewise does tapping on the glass with a coin. the sensors are ultrsonic based and the alarm will go off if you leave the windows down in wind as well.

installation of these things leaves a LOT to be desired. 90% of them are in with scotchlocks and when I get them they are usually falling apart.

max,

sorry for the hijack.

you have a mongoose alarm fitted to that car and I dare say its a M80G. the sensor you showed is the glassbreak sensor.

SCORP,

do as waz suggested. yours does work as I set the thing off a few times.

Yea thats what it is...u fitted one to my 34 too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...