Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HR31 Autech Skyline.

With a full silhouette racing kit

Currently RB20det sil top

R33 turbo

Stainless dump

Full 3" system "jap writing on xorst" hks???

No cat

Electrics

E-boost2

Omori gauges, oil temp/pressure, volts, water.

No cd player or that jazz

Bee*R

Be-time turbo timer

Driveline

Kaaz 2way

Xtreme lightened fly n xxhd clutch

Suspension

JIC coil overs

Cusco strut braces

ARC sway bars

Tomei hi-cas lock

Induction

Fmic

Stainless piping

GFB b-o-v

HKS mushroom pod

Steering

Extra steering lock "dunno what they've done but its crazy"

Also udjustable other goodies

Rims n Brakes

Volk Rays 3pc rims

Std brakes

Cusco master cyl stopper

Lubrication

Perma cool oil cooler "fat ass mofo"

Braided lines made by mwah

Eaton aeroquip lightweight race fittings

B+M oil thermostat

Interior

Full cage

Bride Jeta old school fixed back racing seat

Simpson racing harness

Nice drifty wheel

No sound deadening

Now soon to be featuring a fully built RB30/26

Consisting of...

RB30et block "which i scored 4 $50"

RB26 head race ported, 95% fully machined head, with new covers, intake etc

Mahle forged pistons

Spool forged rods

Spool cam gears

7ltr sump High energy

Ally metal jacket harmonic bal

Tomei h/v pump $$$$$

ACL race bearings all round

Fully re-line bored

Full length crank collar

All crank work done

Grub screwed etc all the jazz ! Cost me a fair bit in block work, pretty much blue printed

Xtreme fly std weight for "inersia" good 4 drifto

Xtreme motor sport clutch "same as Borneo's ceffy" custom made for me.

Head work is still 2 be set,

Going TO4Z HKS turbo kit "woot woot"

So much more but cant remember atm

Just put this up will do a lil better not the best on a compy atm so if any pointers on this let s no :-)

Edited by HR31DRFT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226621-my-build-with-rb3026/
Share on other sites

another tough 31 in perth good to see mate, the old 26/30 is a good peice of gear and cheap too for a good setup, im planning one myself soon i got all the stuff just need to decide what i wanna do with it lol :D

you didnt buy the block a couple of weeks ago from another r31 owner did you?

How do the ARC sway bars go in the car?

I am thinking about them for my coupe also, but for $1K delivered I want an improvement.

Dude!!

I can throw up a couple of pics of them installed.

All i can say mate its everything u want from a tough sway bar, delivers 100%.

ok thats something i didnt no, put your finger to ya thumb and thats how big. sorry no tape

I've seen whiteline stuff but in my opinion they dont come close.

I'll chuck some pics up for ya later today bud.

The Group Buy Selbys Swaybars are $244 each, buy 2 and you get them delivered free. That's adjustable swaybars as used on Giant's R32GTR at Tsukuba, John P's 300ZX and over 100 SAU guys that have participated in the Group Buys as follows;

R33GTST

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467

R33GTR

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tel-t87826.html

R32GTR

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521

R34GTT

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141

R32GTST

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591

Cheers

Gary

ja. Whiteline rear sway bar for HR31 is actually inferior the the stock hollow 25mm ones.

Its a 20mm solid. That simply does not compare to a 25mm sway bar hollow or solid.

Cheers.

I will await pics :)

The Whiteline catalogue only lists the common part numbers. They take less than half of the applications we have. In Selbys Swaybars we make 20 mm, 22 mm, 24 mm, 26 mm, 27 mm, 30 mm and 32 mm rear swaybars for HR31's, adjustable if you want.

Cheers

Gary

sorry i didnt mean cheap i meant cheaper than a stroker kit for a 26, which is around $10 000 for crank rods and pistons alone, now thats called not cheap :P ive done the stroker kit on my 26 and now im gonna do a 26/30 engine as well, so i tend to use cheap in the wrong situations after spending money on the first engine lol

Edited by unique1
sorry i didnt mean cheap i meant cheaper than a stroker kit for a 26, which is around $10 000 for crank rods and pistons alone, now thats called not cheap :D ive done the stroker kit on my 26 and now im gonna do a 26/30 engine as well, so i tend to use cheap in the wrong situations after spending money on the first engine lol

haha all good man, its a thousand for this a thousand for that, damn it gets outa control.

The Group Buy Selbys Swaybars are $244 each, buy 2 and you get them delivered free. That's adjustable swaybars as used on Giant's R32GTR at Tsukuba, John P's 300ZX and over 100 SAU guys that have participated in the Group Buys as follows;

R33GTST

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467

R33GTR

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tel-t87826.html

R32GTR

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521

R34GTT

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141

R32GTST

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591

Cheers

Gary

Do you have to do you sales pitch in every thread maybe he should buy some bulshit standard spec bilstiens too.

good luck with the build mate!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...