Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i rarely fill up the whole tank. just put 30-50 bux in evrytime i go anywhere and usually use it all up.

stop whinging, you drive an r34 gtr you can afford 1.80/L for petrol :stupid:

Maybe people used up all their life savings just to buy a GTR, so no money for petrol :D

But anyway, will fuel prices EVER come back down again? like EVER?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226638-liquid-gold/#findComment-3990781
Share on other sites

But anyway, will fuel prices EVER come back down again? like EVER?

Better go & ask George W Bush & see if he will stop attacking Iraq & Iran...

I still remeber when I 1st came to AU & the cheapest fuel I saw once was something like 50c/L with my dad filling up his old Subaru 1800 wagon with leaded fuel which was about 10c more...

good times. good times... :stupid:

<h2 class="r">

</h2>

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226638-liquid-gold/#findComment-3990787
Share on other sites

wooo having no licence ftw atm it seems :)

although by the time i get it back itll be over $2 a litre :)

lol last time i filled my tank fully was 3 years ago

It was $1.10 a ltr for ultimate or so

How times have changed, i put $50 in the other week, didnt even dint the fuel gauge @ $1.76

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226638-liquid-gold/#findComment-3991197
Share on other sites

i dont drive it much but i put 40 everyweek so if i dont drive for a week i feel better when i fill up next week as i think im getting more. denial is good sometimes.

its all those darn speculators that jack the prices up. ooww i heard barry might buy 3 pairs of brown socks at dimmeys, better play safe and jack up the oil price in case he does. even the oil producers cant put a price on their oil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226638-liquid-gold/#findComment-3991744
Share on other sites

and the few extra kw's would be nice.

i'm pretty sure you LOSE power when you go to gas

Better go & ask George W Bush & see if he will stop attacking Iraq & Iran...

incorrect. I don't see GWB flexing any US muscle on Nigeria? I don't see GWB telling the speculators to jump on the oil bandwagon. I don't see OPEC hugely increasing oil production (relative to some demands from US/EU, etc).

GWB is a tool, no doubt, but Iraq and Iran have had little impact on what we're seeing now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226638-liquid-gold/#findComment-3992114
Share on other sites

i rarely fill up the whole tank. just put 30-50 bux in evrytime i go anywhere and usually use it all up.

you will notice a difference, albeit slight, if you DON'T run your fuel down. You get more bang for buck (more fuel, less fumes, i know, sounds silly) on the refil if you fill from halfway.

I did some testing, filling from halfway i can get about ~20km more out of tank, compared to filling from empty. Nominal, but still an improvement nonetheless.

So you're best off getting to halfway then filling up.

Obviously tyre pressures and driving style are going to help further still, and all that jazz

G2DILA: Pump tyres to 38-40psi. (Buy a $5 pen tyre pressure tester to check this regularly).

Try and fill from halfway if possible. Regular oil changes with something around the 0w30, 0w40, 5w30 with a group 4 or higher Synth oil. (Filter as well)

As people have said, fill on Tuesdays, wednesday mornings. There are also some arguments for filling up early morning, late evening as again, there are less fumes (less servo traffic, less fuel being moved about), petrol has settled.

If you have an aftermarket comptuer, get someone like Ben @ Racepace to check everything, make sure it's not running silly rich. Check spark plugs as well, maybe even upgrade coil packs.

If you don't have an aftermarket computer, still not a bad idea to throw the car on a dyno to check to see how the ratios are going

But i suppose mostly it comes down to the right foot, choosing gears, etc..

take PT if possible :P I've switched to PT for my weekday shifts at work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226638-liquid-gold/#findComment-3992134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...