Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok well i finished installing my turbo the other night and got it on the dyno... here are the results.

The turbo is a HKS 2530, i was running 10psi boost for this run.

It seems i need a fuel cut defender, and really need to upgrade fuel pump and reg from the standard crap ones i got.

what will be the max power std injectors can push?

what do you think my car will make once ive changed pump and reg? (i am running a std computer with injectors, but havee installed an SAFCII) i dont want to fork out for a complete computer.

I know this turbo's efficiency range is something like 1.2bar - 1.5 or something. i would like to run around 1.1-1.2bar if possible with new pump and reg.

any suggestons, ideas or info to improve its current state would be great.

heres the print out.2530dyno2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22721-dyno-results-with-hks2530/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why did you stop the power-run before 6000rpm? Due to the AFR being way too lean? Why didn't you use the SAFC to richen it up?

My car with stock turbo and injectors made 296rwhp, so I'm sure you can push your injectors to a bit over 300rwhp. A bigger fuel pump and fuel reg will allow about 340rwhp no probs.

Paul, yours does have 500 extra cc's to get there remember :(

bbenny: if youve got an SAFC then you should be able to tune that AFR graph to look a bit better, at the moment it looks like its leaning out toward dangerous at about 6krpm. However the RB20 ecu is very easily reprogrammed, and since your already paying for the dyno time, getting a remap by someone cluey shouldnt cost you too much.

Personally, if you dont plan on making too many changes to maps (like me:D), id sell the SAFC and let the ecu manage everything (probably cheaper and you get to change timing AND fuel maps).

Red17

Sorry, didn't read it was a R32.

I agree with Red17, Those AFR's are very bad, way too lean. I'm sure it will make decent power once the SAFC is tuned, or you have a remapped chip.

The way the dyno graph was pointing I'd guess you'd get 300rwhp easily at 1bar:D

i didnt stop it, it cuts out because its running too lean... i think it needs a fuel cut defender or something.

yeah i was hoping to make 300rwhp on stock injectors.

yeah i was contemplating whether to ditch the SAFC and chip it...

no the engine completely cuts out... so when im driving on the road i have the foot planted and then at around 5500rpm it just cuts out as if i took my foot completely off. its very sudden. its pulling hard then all of a sudden NOTHING.

Holy crap man....look at those AFR's after 4000rpm. Definately get the fuel pump first...and then see how much improvement you get. Standard injectors should be ok for around 210rwkw or so. If i were you i wouldn't be driving over 4000rpm....that's asking for trouble.

Scott

I put money on it been the fuel pump . Mine was the same.

Come into my work and grab a bosche 040 600hp internal.

Sounds like its hitting AFM cut as well which Glen at c-red can get rid of or lucas at speedworks. Don't put a shitty fuel cut defender on it when u can just program it out of the computer.

haha dont worry im not driving it above 4000rpm and ive dropped the boost to std! thanks for the concern guys.

yeah i think i will get the computer tuned.

Chris, im very happy with it so far... once i get the other problems sorted i think it will be shredding all those idiots in WRX's and commodores (even tho it already did, now just rubs it in a little more) hehe

Its the fuel pump!

I had similar 13.5 AFR under load when the fuel pump was dying...

I could see, with a gauge on fuel feed line, the rail pressure was dropping dramatically after 4500.

Upgrade the pump, its easy to do yourself on r32.

fuel pump upgrade link

(You make more power when its running lean like that...well until

it goes BANG anyway ;p)

I like the look of that graph though at only 10psi!

oh yeah, and toshi will sell you a remapped chip with fuel cut removed and mapped (timing and fuel) for bigger turbo

its not perfect though (only $160), as its not dynoed to your particular car but better than stock chip, you could still use the safc to fine tune it further (since you already got it)

or sell safc and get a proper chip remap on a dyno

Redline gtr: im not sure who will tune it at this stage. ive ben getting it the dyno runs at Procar - they are reasonable at $45 for a power run... and about $65 an hr to have A/F tuned...

gts-v-spec: yeah i was considering the drive there :)

yeah well ive already ordered pump and regulator so ill throw it in on monday night and get her back on the dyno and see what happens. if it still cuts out then im going to sell the SAFCII and chip it instead (bugger because i only put the SAFC in 2 days ago! gggrrrr) anyone interested in it? only about 2hrs use ;)

thanks for the instalation info Nissky

Oh and does anyone know a good place in Sydney to have the ECU tuned?

just get a Big fuel pump... dont worry about the Reg just yet.

Just get bigger injectors to go with the pump. And leave it to the stock reg.

Dont get a bigger reg to squeeze the most outta the stock injectors. You wont get much more so its not worth the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...