Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:

Whiteline Adjustable Swaybars

24mm front, 22mm rear, to suit a R32 GTS-t.

Age:

Ive owned them for about a year.

Condition:

Excellent, they dont really wear.

Price:

$400

To Fit:

R32 GTS-t and probably all other RWD R32's.

Location:

SA, will post anywhere in Aus

Contact:

PM me

Comments:

Bought these from Sydneykid's group buy, best bang for buck mod u can do to ur car's handling, im only selling to upgrade as the car becomes more track orientated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227301-whiteline-adjustable-swaybars/
Share on other sites

Item:

Whiteline Adjustable Swaybars

24mm front, 22mm rear, to suit a R32 GTS-t.

Age:

Ive owned them for about a year.

Condition:

Excellent, they dont really wear.

Price:

$400

To Fit:

R32 GTS-t and probably all other RWD R32's.

Location:

SA, will post anywhere in Aus

Contact:

PM me

Comments:

Bought these from Sydneykid's group buy, best bang for buck mod u can do to ur car's handling, im only selling to upgrade as the car becomes more track orientated.

Do you have the code for the front bar? I'm looking for a 24mm front bar for my Stagea:

BNF27XZ or BNF27XXZ - would be happy to pay postage to Auckland NZ if you have the right bar.

[email protected]

Do you have the code for the front bar? I'm looking for a 24mm front bar for my Stagea:

BNF27XZ or BNF27XXZ - would be happy to pay postage to Auckland NZ if you have the right bar.

[email protected]

hey mate, sorry but they are a different bar.

Hey mate.

Do you have some pics that show how it is adjusted? How much bigger are they to standard 32 sway bars?

Thanks,

Russ

hey mate, where you link the bar to the suspension there are 3 holes instead of 1, using the 6 different holes (3 on each side) gives you adjustment to balance out your car and control oversteer and understeer.

they are roughly 3-3.5 times the stiffness of the standard bars.

Thanks mate.

Would you send the front one to Melb? If so what price.

It may not be practical but thought I'd ask anyway.

hey mate, i may well be, i was offered a swap for the rear so might be able to. obviously it would be easier to sell as a set but may be able to do it. assuming postage is around $20-30 i could probably do it for $220.

just interested but what are you planning on upgrading to?

hey mate, looking at upgrading to either 27/24 or 28/26 bars due to the car becoming more track drift orientated, the 24/22 bars here are perfect for street and grip work on the circuit.

hey mate, i may well be, i was offered a swap for the rear so might be able to. obviously it would be easier to sell as a set but may be able to do it. assuming postage is around $20-30 i could probably do it for $220.

hey mate, looking at upgrading to either 27/24 or 28/26 bars due to the car becoming more track drift orientated, the 24/22 bars here are perfect for street and grip work on the circuit.

who makes these/where do you get them?

oh and sorry for flooding your thread :thumbsup:

interested in seperating the rear nisskid?

if Russman takes the fronts then can seperate the rears. as i said before i have someone willing to swap the rear 22mm bar for a 24mm bar, but im not sure if im going 24 or 26 on the rear yet.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...