Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The problem is 80% of the time im running my r32 gtr in rwd mode the 4wd hardly ever works, and when it does work it only

lasts for a maximum of maybe 10 mins. Ive had the attessa bled, checked the fuse, its fine, attessa fluid is good. What would be the problem. It basicly works once a blue moon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227998-4wd-problem/
Share on other sites

It basicly works once a blue moon.

The gauge should flicker when ever you put your foot down. Accelerating mildy out of any corner will move some power to the front.

Does the ATTESSA ECU, have a fault code system like the main ECU, somone on here will know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227998-4wd-problem/#findComment-4012741
Share on other sites

It's the same like a R34 GT-R. Only difference is that you can actually see how much power is moved to the front cause of the MFD ( I think) . GT-R's naturally are RWD and the ECU will deliver power to the front wheels AS AND WHEN NEEDED.

Edited by teng
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227998-4wd-problem/#findComment-4013704
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...