Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmm, but but but Mark, 2010 was a bit of an anomally, being, with all due respect, a bit of a Steven Bradbury winner. All the much quicker front guys fell off or broke on the last day.

The last complete results I have is 2009.

Steve Glenney was 10th Outright in the RX8 SP.

I was 17th Outright, a mere 1:29 behind. The guy who won my class (Classic Outright) ended up 7th Outright.

I agree with everything above, a good recce and car prep will give a better result than a Million dollar car driven at 80%. There is so much time to be gained on the fast section with accurate notes and a commited driver!

Having said that, the time you lose on day 1 of Targa is no different to the time you lose on day 5, and this is where the balance of speed vs reliability comes in I guess?

Our 32 GTR at THC was certainly no "Big Budget" build, and Melinda did quite well for the cars first event and her first time in a skyline (and her first event in 2yrs). Our current tune is only 260rwkw, but she can drive it alot faster yet before she needs more power.

On another note, how did everyones tyre wear go? We ran Dunlop DZ03 mediums, and they were totally shot after Big River reverse (Eildon?) on Sunday, with Mel losing heaps of time thinking a tyre was delaminating. Maybe Medium/hards for TT11?

Cheers

paul

Big Paul,

Glad the wife went well mate :)

In years past GTR's have really needed to run Hards to get through, but I have a feeling that your wife's deft touch, under 300AWKW, a day of precipitation, and the ability to add two new tyres end of day four, that Dunlop SR (medium hard) will see her through.

The big thing for me is you can't gain time only lose it, so you need to be in the hunt all the time.. I think the old days of take it easy for the first few days and see where you are on sunday doesn't apply anymore.

If you stick in the top 5 of your competition all the way and pounce on the stages you know you can make time up on. That will slingshot you up the order.

Also you need to remember, while the results from last year and the past can give an idea of where you can run, remember there are guys like David Ayre's, Snowy and now Newton that need to be slotted in the mix and I dare say that, that could be the potential podium for EM next year (not neccissarily in that order).

Blaise will be better for a first up run (look at his times from after lunch on Day 1 at THC) and with him fine tuning again in TWP he'll be up there at the pointy end.

EM will be seriously competitive for TT11. I reckon I will struggle for a top 5 let alone a podium. But for now I will settle with just being allowed to officially finish.

For what its worth I ran the A050's at TT this year which are an M and there was still heaps of tread left on them at the end (and I never put any fresh ones on). Mind you it was never really 100% dry for the whole 6 days. But I know Jeff ran a set in 2009 where the weather was much kinder ok as well. That being said my set was completely shagged after THC but I think everyones tyres across the board were like that. I will still run the yoki's again for TT11 even though its a few weeks earlier in the year.

But if I wasn't running the A050's I'd run the Dunlop R's (M/H).

Tyres will be a hard choice next year. Running eariler, and not being able to change tyres for free (at this stage), I don't think the Dunlop M's will last for my car.

From memory the 050 M is the same as the 03G R, and the 050 S is the same as the 03G M

Yeah the A050 "M" is more like a M/H for sure - or even a H. One of the guys here has just done his 8th track day on a single set I think and runs full sessions everytime out. They definitely wear well.

And the fact they only come in Medium, Soft and Super Soft to me really says they come in Hard, Medium and Soft but they just want to sound more hardcore. LOL

Yeah the A050 "M" is more like a M/H for sure - or even a H. One of the guys here has just done his 8th track day on a single set I think and runs full sessions everytime out. They definitely wear well.

And the fact they only come in Medium, Soft and Super Soft to me really says they come in Hard, Medium and Soft but they just want to sound more hardcore. LOL

^^^ What he says.

Please explain?

Didn't you enjoy yourself?

Should I buy it back?

Yeah really enjoyed it and it seems to be a good thing now as we seemed to be on the pace until the clutch problems. Just want to recope some money as I have spent a fortune on it lately. Not in a hurry to sell so if I still have it when TWP and TT comes around I'l still run. Yeah I think you should by it back lol

Just a quick one on tyres... M's at Rally Tas - hopeless. Buggered by Savage River. M's in TT all the way through.

And for those who want to run up front - its a 5 day sprint. Easier to coast when everyone has fall off chasing and you are on shot tyres than make up the time you lost on Wednesday conserving rubber.

One day of rain - m's get through

TT

Yeah the A050 "M" is more like a M/H for sure - or even a H. One of the guys here has just done his 8th track day on a single set I think and runs full sessions everytime out. They definitely wear well.

And the fact they only come in Medium, Soft and Super Soft to me really says they come in Hard, Medium and Soft but they just want to sound more hardcore. LOL

In 08 we ran Yoki M's I imported from the states. (not 050, but their forerunner). Hope the new ones are better - cos was 5 sec slower on Paradise in the dry than we were D03's [07 intermediate stage wet all the way from the bridge to top of hill)

Tyres are always an issue - and when managed the right tyre a huge advantage

TT

In 08 we ran Yoki M's I imported from the states. (not 050, but their forerunner). Hope the new ones are better - cos was 5 sec slower on Paradise in the dry than we were D03's [07 intermediate stage wet all the way from the bridge to top of hill)

Tyres are always an issue - and when managed the right tyre a huge advantage

TT

If they were he A048 yokies, they were rubbish cmpared to the RE55 and Dunlop at the time from my observations. Dunlop always seemed to be the tyre of choice. Although the new 050 seems to have bridged the gap and is a fast tyre and seems, from what Snowy has said, to be able to go the distance, especially if you get the odd wet day. I will be punting on a set of M yokies getting me through at leats 4 days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...