Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I hope you guys don't mind another "which suspension should i get" topic.

I want to replace the crappy worn out stock suspension on my R32 with some good height adjustable coilovers. They need to be adjustable to at least stock height (anything lower than stock height is not good for the bodykit). I basically need something good, but not too fancy (I dont want to spend over $5k). What are your recommendations?

The budget is lets say up to $1500 although I wouldnt mind something cheaper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228726-which-coilovers-for-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

TEIN FLEX if you can find a set

I had a set in my R32 and they were awesome with plenty of adjustment as well

2 way height, 16 point damper

yea... these sort of exceed my $1500 budget + I cant find them anywhere.

K-Sport or D2s should do the job. they can go pretty low aswell and are qquite reasonably priced

D2s are quite cheap... around $1000 if I remember correctly, but I've only heard bad things about them.

If you are going to go cheap, then go HSD. I have been in a few cars runnig them and they are not too bad, and they are new, locally available and height adjustable

mm, dont really see the point though, the tein basics costs about the same, if not a bit cheaper, its a much better quality product, including the damper. the only reason the tein is cheaper is it doesnt have the damper adjustment, and to be quite honest, damper adjustment on the HSD's is just about useless, even if the HSD's had anything resembling decent damper adjustment, the people that own them wouldnt have the first clue on how to use the adjustment properly.

I've been to Car Toys (import part store in adelaide) today and they have GReddy Type-S for R32 in stock for around $1770. Is cca $200 over my budget, but technically I dont have any budget anyway coz I'm putting it on my credit card... + they have interest free available so I may not have to use credit card. I've heard they are pretty good and $1770 is pretty good price... usually they cost over $2000. What do you think.

Are there any other good places in adelaide that sell suspension I should see? I had no luck finding TEIN flex for $1500.

Edited by Rocky88
what do u use ur car for?

Daily commuting and just driving around for fun, often in hills and country. I dont use it for track racing but i still want good height adjustable coilovers. The stock suspension I have on currently is already its on death bed so i need something new quickly.

Daily commuting and just driving around for fun, often in hills and country. I dont use it for track racing but i still want good height adjustable coilovers. The stock suspension I have on currently is already its on death bed so i need something new quickly.

if its a daily commuter, wouldnt it make sense to go for a more street setup? u can still have fun in a car with softer spring rates, on the street u wont notice as much difference as the car is not being put under the same load, even pushing the car through the hills. so let me ask u this, is a tiny amount of speed through the hills once a week or so worth putting up with a much worse ride comfort for the rest of the week?

There is this widely held belief that in order for a car to handle well it HAS to ride harshly. Which is of course complete and utter rubbish. The truth is you CAN have a car that rides acceptably and at the same time handles very well. You just have to choose the right components and then set the suspension geometry to maintain the maximum tyre contact. After all, keeping the tyre in contact with the road surface at all times under all conditions is what makes a good handling car. A car that leaps from bump to bump is hardly going to handle very well, because it has no grip when the tyre is off the ground.

Cheers

Gary

if its a daily commuter, wouldnt it make sense to go for a more street setup? u can still have fun in a car with softer spring rates, on the street u wont notice as much difference as the car is not being put under the same load, even pushing the car through the hills. so let me ask u this, is a tiny amount of speed through the hills once a week or so worth putting up with a much worse ride comfort for the rest of the week?

Yea, good point, although spring rates can be adjusted on coilovers. The reason why I considered greddy coils is because my choices are 1. very cheap coils like D2 (cca $1000), which according many people wont last long even if just used for daily commuting, then 2. good quality basic street coilovers like TEIN super street, which cost around $1500 (apparently I could get them for less, but god knows where) and then for a little more Greddy S-type.

Besides S-type is (according to their website) designed for comfortable ride:

Designed for the optimum balance of traction, comfort
Instead of the common heavy spring rates, that offer harsh rides and easily loose traction on bumpy American roads, Type-S systems utilize a relatively softer spring with a longer stroke to maximize traction on the streets and track. An added benefit of this is also a comfortable ride for the street.
Edited by Rocky88

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...