Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys...

Had my car on the dyno yesterday, pulled 160.9 rwkw

IMG_5117.jpg

Showed the sheet to a mate of mine and he said that the air fuel ratios are a bit out of wack.

He recons a boost controler will fix this issue and ill br able to get more power out of it

Just wanting to know what u guys think about it and what some of your recomendations would be

Car is a stock R34 GTT

Cheers mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228935-had-dyno-run-and-need-an-opinion/
Share on other sites

Well for a state, your mate - dont listen to him :D

More boost is likely more than not, to flip the ECU out and then you'll have a massive power dip around 4000-5000rpm.

What you need is a band-air interceptor (S-AFC etc) or a full ECU (PowerFC etc), thats the only way to solve that problem

SAFC to fix the AFRs or come down to Sydney and have Toshi remap your stock ECU (you can find him on the forums here).

You're running very rich at the moment .. safe AFRs are 11.5:1 at the top end and you're at less than 10:1

I'm surprised you're making that much power with a stocker that's running so rich ... I was making around 150rwkw with a stocker + turbo back exhaust, now at 190rwkw with turbo back and boost controller at 11psi and Toshi's ecu remap.

If you're going to get a boost controller, get it before any tune so that the ecu can be tuned with the new higher boost ... otherwise you'll pay twice.

Edited by Delta Force

Hi Delta Force.

EJD001

R34 can not boosted up more than around 12psi.

Because ignition timing will retard around 12psi.

Its same R33.

Also R34 boosted up under 12psi , it will ping at 3600-4400rpm when the accelerator is put down on street.

Because R34 ignition map is 3600-4400rpm very hi ignition timing for Australia fuel.(maybe 100 octane fuel is OK)

You need remap or PFC(need tune).

lol @ looks normal..

no it doesnt lol thats really really fkn rich.. a stock computer wil never flatline a dyno. thats rich as f**k, 10:1 is fkn super super rich and thats considering that it flatlines there.. who really knows how rich its running

get it tuned champ and ull enjoy more power and better fuel economy while thrashin :rofl:

fuel economy is not too bad... did a run from gosford to bathurst and back and used one and a bit tanks. but i got 510km before having to fill... ofcourse hghway driving is the big factor there!

So u think im better off just getting a PFC or getting the standard ecu looked at.

In the future i am going to go for larger numbers, thats y im leaning towards a PFC

Edited by EJD001

My R34 made 161rwkw with a cat back exhuast and around 11psi. Once again operator said she was running very rich

I had never noticed the flat spot. Until recently, feels like a massive second kick somewhere near 6 and she starts going again! :rofl: stupid factory comp. Im definitely getting the flat spot now.

Its possible the boost is running mine too rich and probably robbing some power.

Here is my graph. Because it was a simple cheap power run the print out doesnt include the afr etc.

dynoyv9.jpg

Edited by Granthem

i cant work out y im getting such good figures..

Like grant, he has upped the boost and put on a exhaust and its making the same power as my car, which i havent upped the boost or done any mods to!

Cars are so fun sometimes!

Yeh dynos change from place to place.

Easiest way is to track it.

Currently my car has run a best of 14.0 and more importantly at a best of 99mph. So i guess its pretty close to 160rwkw in a chunker of a car to get that top end speed.

Throw yours on the strip and find out what she pulls. Without the boost increase, my car was running 92-93mph. If your cracking much more then that, your lucky and got a freak of an engine :rofl:

now looking into a PFC...

Should i be looking at a second hand one or brand new.... is there much that can go wrong with a second hand unt?

Price will be the big difference aswell i would think!

Thanks to everyone for their input so far...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...