Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if you could get a quote for a s/s version to suit a r34 (would have it in a simular location to where yours is), with the speedflow fittings i would be keen. I believe you that there hasnt been any problems, i'd just rather have peice of mind when i'm booting the shit out of it, knowing that there is no way main oil lines will be leaking/popping off.

Also, could the thermostat be intergrated into the s/s line?

:(

yeah the thermostat can still be used, just means another 4 fittings.

fair enough for wanting peace of mind, it just costs a bit more

im going to have a sus on exact pricing on monday.

how much for just the oil cooler core only ?

pm sent

would this fit a 7mgte / 7mge (from ma70 supra) also interested in speedflow fittings

yeah, it definitely fits the block.

NOW for the few people who are interested in the braided line version with speedflow fittings (blue and red anodised alloy) it will cost another 150-170 on top of each kit price. (not including the thermostat.) That is IF there are a few people who are interested in the kit with the braided line and fittings.

The braided hose itself is actually of a larger diameter also which means less restriction on the system.

So we're looking at around $550-$570 including the braided lines, speedflow fittings and thermostat?

I may be interested. Need to measure if the core will fit in the front of my Stagea somewhere.

I'm interested in an oil cooler with thermostat and speedflow fittings.

+1 definately interested in the whole lot

how many people did you need for the braided version to go ahead?

So we're looking at around $550-$570 including the braided lines, speedflow fittings and thermostat?

I may be interested. Need to measure if the core will fit in the front of my Stagea somewhere.

incorrect. another 4 fittings and 4 adapters are needed for the thermostat.

the kit will be 2nd to none though, with every component being the best you can get.

I'm interested in an oil cooler with thermostat and speedflow fittings.

interested as in deposit interested?

+1 definately interested in the whole lot

how many people did you need for the braided version to go ahead?

3 deposits of say $80 will get it rolling. 1/2 week turnover.

this whole kit needs to be revised if there is CERTAINTY for the braided version with necessary fittings.

the first quote was for 3.5M of braided hose.

if you measure how much hose you require in TOTAL i can adjust kits to suit.

PLEASE DISCUSS, because the fine details are important.

I'm looking at mounting the oil cooler where the SMIC is. (Will be changed to FMIC of course) So if you could allow for that length. 3.5m should cover it I would think.

this whole kit needs to be revised if there is CERTAINTY for the braided version with necessary fittings.

the first quote was for 3.5M of braided hose.

if you measure how much hose you require in TOTAL i can adjust kits to suit.

PLEASE DISCUSS, because the fine details are important.

if you copied a simular length to what you have in your car, but just in braided line and the provision for the thermostat that should work well. Most people would have it in a simular location to where yours is.

You can definately add me as apart of the group of 3, as soon as 2 other people show interest in the same kit i dont mind putting $80 deposit

:P

if you copied a simular length to what you have in your car, but just in braided line and the provision for the thermostat that should work well. Most people would have it in a simular location to where yours is.

You can definately add me as apart of the group of 3, as soon as 2 other people show interest in the same kit i dont mind putting $80 deposit

:P

I'm sweet for a deposit too.

Hey mate,

Interetsed, but can you please confirm price for full kit, with braided lines long enough to mount on the passenger side of a 32GTR?

Whats the actual size of the core, (Dimensions)

is there any chance of buying the speedflow fittings and ss braided hose by itself?

i'm quite keen as i have a similar setup using the permacool and b&m thermostat with a sertrab core

i'm yet to be install the kit on the car,

and i have always been a little concerned about the rubber hose that is supplied kinking and then restricting the oil flow...

pm me if possible,

thanks,

greg-

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...