Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hiya. Has anyone used this site to check the mileage of a car before it left japan? Be excellent if it actually works. Supposed to go through auctionhouse databases and reports odo reading before auction.

http://japanodometercheck.com/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229517-import-odometer-check-website/
Share on other sites

yes, various bodies have been cracking down on this. there are a couple of problems though. for one, most often it's the seller who winds back the speedo (not the exporter, or aussie importer). they do it BEFORE auction in order to get a slightly better grading. A car with say 180,000kms may get graded a 4B. wind that back to 80,000kms and that very same car could get a 4.5B which will get more interest and most likely more money. it also doesn't take into account how often the auction houses make mistakes. their record of a cars kms should not be taken as gospel. it is a good idea though.

personally though, the only real way to verify kms is to get a car that has a continuous and complete service history. also, the japanese government is now recording the kms at each shaken inspection. and when a car is sold for export they now print out the previous shaken inspection kms on the de-reg certificate. so you sometimes see "inspection 2001 65,000kms" "inspection 2004 87,000kms". then you get the car and it's got 70,000kms.... eek3.gif

yeah I just had a look and personally I think it's a waste of money. 60 bucks just for them to MAYBE tell you your odo was MAYBE wound back... not good value at all. and you would be rightfully pissed if they sent you back the old 'inconclusive' response they talk about.

Hi...

I had a glance and thought it was going to cost me 6 bucks. When i read it again and saw the extra 0, I suddenly realised that it didn't matter to much if my car has been wound back. ;) I'll just wait for someone else to let me know how it works out for them :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...