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Hey guys!

Im gonna be going my first trackday next weekend. Its going to be at Wakefield Park NSW.

And Im just curious to see what time I should be aiming for.

Im very goal driven (parden the pun) so I like something to aim for.

Car:

R32 GTS4 4door

Engine:

RB25DE

Relevant Mods:

Extractors

Front pipe

Cat back

HD Clutch

Polyurethane front bushes

HSD HR coilovers

Front and rear strut bar

GTR Bonnet (-10kg)

Fixed back bucket (-10kg)

Stripping:

Spare wheel

Passenger seat

Back seat

Random things

Wheels + Tyres:

R33 GTST's with Kumho V700's (most likely)

(perhaps) R32 GTR's with Toyo Ra1's

Experience:

No track experience but many hours mountain road driving.

Now I have seen Rb25DET powered cars are usually running just less than the 1:15 mark.

I'd like under 1:20. I think it’s a fairly low starting point. Could I aim a little lower?

Has anyone in 25DE run at Wakie? What kind of time did you run?

Any tips for being quick around Wakie? Any pointers for the track would be awesome!

Im assuming the 2nd (sharp) right hander after the pit straight is quite tough on the brakes. Should I be looking into higher temp pads/fluids?

Thanks in advance guys!

Any imput would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Cris

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229980-what-time-could-i-run-at-wakefield/
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I'd recommend QFM heavy duty pads, held up firm, never felt like fading. I think I did around 1:18 first time out, rough timing by passenger. The end straight corner can be hard on the brakes, my advice brake in a straight line at the end of the straight itself. I managed to spinout when I stuffed the end kink up at the end of the straight.

I'd recommend QFM heavy duty pads, held up firm, never felt like fading. I think I did around 1:18 first time out, rough timing by passenger. The end straight corner can be hard on the brakes, my advice brake in a straight line at the end of the straight itself. I managed to spinout when I stuffed the end kink up at the end of the straight.

lol.. I just watched some bloke spin at 160 odd km/h..

Wise words..

What engine/mods?

Cheers

If this is your first trackday your goals should be to have fun, don't try and be Lewis Hamilton because you aren't, smooth equals fast and most importantly get the car home in 1 piece without trying to be a hero.

Its a fair point you guys rais..

but money is hard for me to come buy.. and I dont know when Ill get this opportunity again.. This was given as a present..

Ill enjoy the begining.. of the day.. but Id like to put my steering skills to the test..

Im just curious..

Ill try under 1:20.. and see..

More input on the track would be great..

Ill post after the track day the time..

Top up your engine oil slightly also :wave:

Main thing is have fun!

Do a warm up lap, do a couple of fast laps, then a cool down lap, and when you come into pits, dont put your handbrake on.

Dont push yourself, as Ben said, smooth can be faster.

Enjoy.

i seen a rx2 roll it on 2nd corner other week!!!

1.19-1.20ill be fine like they said warm up laps couple of fast ones then a cool down, you want your car to last!!!!

meh.. if engine blows.. It's just a bigger insentive to finish my other engine :(

lol.. Im quite worried about that corner..

My mate may be comming in his Mazda Capella (Piston Rx2).. and I think Ill be telling him about that too

You just have to use your brains. If it looks like you're not going to make the corner, don't just turn the wheel and pray cos that will never work. Go STRAIGHT into the sand trap and wait to be towed out.

I had a lose at 180km/h at the end of the OP straight and while spinning around I managed to get the car to spear into the sand trap straight backwards. There is no doubt in my mind that had I hit it sideways I would have rolled it many times but all that happened was I cracked my rear rotors cos they were hot and I was sitting still.

STRAIGHT into sand traps! Got it?

if u get talking 2 sum1 that has been round the track b4 and similar power follow them round the track close but not 2 close and watch the lines they take. my mate has said 2 be carefull of the right hander coming of the top as it goes off camber but just have fun out there. r u gona have a go at the supersprint of hillclimb in august.

The main thing is to have fun and enjoy yourself :ermm: you will have the best time out there

Take the morning to get used to the track and your braking points, Don't go out hell for leather..

By the afternoon you will be more confident and usually your times lessen with that confidence :down: Try and chase a faster car as that always help me go that little bit quicker.

Watch you're temps in the car like the other guys are saying and have cool down laps on the track or a lap of the pits after you come off. If your using semi slicks they will tell you usually when they have had enough as don't grip so well after 5 laps or so ( Yokohama A048's do this to me after 5 laps) and become greasy that the best time to cool it down a little..

Best of Luck I'm sure you will have a ball! :P

Just make sure you make it around the kink. If you don't there's nothing to slow you down before you hit the tyres. :down:

Don't worry about turn 2, there's kitty litter to pull you up if you go in too hot, and seriously, you have about an extra 20m of track beyond the point where you should be getting off the brakes and turning in which is heaps unless you are sliding on someone elses oil.

Advice on the track itself;

There are 2 lines through the kink, the wide line where you stay about 4m off the apex and brake in a curve to effectively take turn 2 wider and the straight line where you straight line from the apex of the kink to your turn in point at 2 and it makes turn 2 a bit tighter as a result.

Take turn 3 as fast as you can, don't worry so much about your line into turn 4. If you are back somewhere around the middle of the track when you turn in to 4 you are doing ok. If you can make it all the way over to the left again before turning into 4 then you are losing a heap of time through 3.

5 is just a regular old corner

6 i turn in late and hug the ripple strip down the slippery dip before braking in a curve into the fish hook. You want the car parallel to the right hand side of the track at the point you turn in to the fish hook. There's an access track that comes off the side of the track at that point. turn in as soon as you pass it and clip the ripple strip on the apex.

If your car is a typical skyline it will probably drift to the out side here if you are going quick so just ease onto the throttle and keep it on the track and maintain the turn. You want to come out of the fish hook on the left half of the track to give yourself enough time to get right over to the left before turn 9. Regular apex but cut it as much as you're game to do. Lots of time to make up with that one as you can carry all that extra speed down the back straight.

And turn 10. brake late and when you think you're about to drive off the end of the track turn in. You want to clip the ripple strip on the inside as you are coming onto the straight. It's probably less important in a 4wd NA but you really need to keep the car pretty straight on the exit of 10 or you just turn the tyres and lose time in a rwd. It's a slow in fast out line and great in the wet too. i've driven away from evos in a 160kw silvia with that one in the wet :P

Thats my rubbish advice. It's probably useless until you have driven the track, but if you read it afterwards something may click.

Hope some of it makes sense.

My good advice. know your limits, keep an eye on temps, and if the car starts to act up pull in cos it'll only get worse. drive your car home.

Driving on the track is not like driving on the street. When you start you'll be stunned about how wide the track is, by the end of the day you should hopefully only be seeing that one car width where you should be.

raps has good advice for learning lines quicker, just don't assume that the guy doing 16's has the right lines because he's trying to copy a guy doing 12's who's copying a guy doing 10's etc etc

Enjoy!

Just make sure you make it around the kink. If you don't there's nothing to slow you down before you hit the tyres. :P

Don't worry about turn 2, there's kitty litter to pull you up if you go in too hot, and seriously, you have about an extra 20m of track beyond the point where you should be getting off the brakes and turning in which is heaps unless you are sliding on someone elses oil.

Advice on the track itself;

There are 2 lines through the kink, the wide line where you stay about 4m off the apex and brake in a curve to effectively take turn 2 wider and the straight line where you straight line from the apex of the kink to your turn in point at 2 and it makes turn 2 a bit tighter as a result.

Take turn 3 as fast as you can, don't worry so much about your line into turn 4. If you are back somewhere around the middle of the track when you turn in to 4 you are doing ok. If you can make it all the way over to the left again before turning into 4 then you are losing a heap of time through 3.

5 is just a regular old corner

6 i turn in late and hug the ripple strip down the slippery dip before braking in a curve into the fish hook. You want the car parallel to the right hand side of the track at the point you turn in to the fish hook. There's an access track that comes off the side of the track at that point. turn in as soon as you pass it and clip the ripple strip on the apex.

If your car is a typical skyline it will probably drift to the out side here if you are going quick so just ease onto the throttle and keep it on the track and maintain the turn. You want to come out of the fish hook on the left half of the track to give yourself enough time to get right over to the left before turn 9. Regular apex but cut it as much as you're game to do. Lots of time to make up with that one as you can carry all that extra speed down the back straight.

And turn 10. brake late and when you think you're about to drive off the end of the track turn in. You want to clip the ripple strip on the inside as you are coming onto the straight. It's probably less important in a 4wd NA but you really need to keep the car pretty straight on the exit of 10 or you just turn the tyres and lose time in a rwd. It's a slow in fast out line and great in the wet too. i've driven away from evos in a 160kw silvia with that one in the wet :ermm:

Thats my rubbish advice. It's probably useless until you have driven the track, but if you read it afterwards something may click.

Hope some of it makes sense.

My good advice. know your limits, keep an eye on temps, and if the car starts to act up pull in cos it'll only get worse. drive your car home.

Driving on the track is not like driving on the street. When you start you'll be stunned about how wide the track is, by the end of the day you should hopefully only be seeing that one car width where you should be.

raps has good advice for learning lines quicker, just don't assume that the guy doing 16's has the right lines because he's trying to copy a guy doing 12's who's copying a guy doing 10's etc etc

Enjoy!

I havnt driven Wakefield but i already feel I could, that was an excellent summation and should serve as an example to the more experienced trackies on the forum when noobs ask for advice.

Great post mate. :down:

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The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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