Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ahh yeh not bad....:P

when u posted last week u were heading out last nite i said i wouldnt miss it for anything, but looks like my memoery fails me yet again :ermm:

any videos at all???

P.S massive congrats, goes to show how good a steerer mark really is :down:

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Actually, they don't have to back it up at all. A back up run is only required for official SCG/ANDRA championship rounds and is only for faststes ET and/or TS in the class.

However, in drag lists such as Hi Performance and any other unofficial category, it is the 6th fastest GTR on radials. :D

Well done again :D

MoTeC ECU?

:P woohoo that is a great new

So that means we have the fastest low mount gtr :blink:

That time slip is fast from the 60" time to the end!

Congrats guys.

hey guys

Sarah my wife is kicking herself for not coming out to watch! :P (so no vid as she does the videoing)

just a few other spec's as asked

the car is making about 450/460kw at all four, i have never had it on another dyno except the one in japan, so not sure what it would read on another was 800ps at all four in japan though !!....lol (i dont think so)

ecu is autronic, with autronic cdi also

tailshaft is a one piece carbon

clutch is an NPC clutch same as mark jacobson ( awsome clutch we generally get the whole year out of it, then just rebuild it)

rear diff is stock

front diff is cusco

transfer case is stock (have not rebuilt it since we put it in four years ago!!)

all drive shafts are stock

mark did drive it real well , i can tell you right now i would not have got that time.

cheers russ

front diff is cusco

transfer case is stock (have not rebuilt it since we put it in four years ago!!)

all drive shafts are stock

:P:blink::D

Massive effort, guys. Congrats on the time. It's certainly set a new mark for the low-mount crowd (limited in numbers as that group is). This is truly one of the most versatile race GTR's ever.

:);) ;)

Massive effort, guys. Congrats on the time. It's certainly set a new mark for the low-mount crowd (limited in numbers as that group is). This is truly one of the most versatile race GTR's ever.

FLoppin impressive. Booted it into the 9's. I was at the WSID same night with the cardi camp and at the time I was impressed with my mate Rn ( Wizard ) in his ZedTT PB 12.009 and 60foot 1.577 Street ET tyres and 12 zeds all up there. Then I get the SMS from Russ. WOW. Raised the bar again.

What records is this, must be one or two?

Edited by Boosted Zed
BTW i certainly don't want to sound cocky or anything as Pauls effort's in drag racing are outstanding and a credit to him and so is his car.

i am just really happy we cracked into the 9's :) with good speed!!

and yeah Roy it was a real buzz.

basic specs are

GCG garret's equivelant to 2530's

2.6 ltr with tomie crank,

gt block,

cleaned up standard rb26 exhaust manifolds,

6 throttle hypertune plenum

ppg dog box

full exhaust (wasnt even running the side pipe)

I didnt know you guys were running the standards cleaned up i was thinking of going this path with GT-RS, 28-35's or 25-40's on my GTR.

Well done wasnt the best before that a 10.1 at the dutton??

PHENOMINAL! HUGE CONGRATS FELLAS

Truly awesome GTR. One of the best all time. Destroys on the circuit, tarmac rally and the drags!

who wants a 9 second circuit car!!! YES PLEASE!!!

Awesome congrats! Great to see a track car doing it on the 1/4 too.

big single is on it now...ahh well good to see it was an Aussie and not a bloody kiwi.

Yeah I don't see a "bloody kiwi" cutting it either, I think "Drag GTR" is about as made up class specific as most are really bothered in going for. I get rumour that the Japanese are starting to rediscover the fun that is drag racing, I reckon the M-Speed GTR could be a serious contender to it if they took that down the 1/4.

Also in regards to the 800ps claim, the video on Ignition I saw looked like it had two figures, one which was under 700ps and one which was ~800ps - I assumed that the 800ps was a "corrected figure" to estimate engine ps though I could be completely wrong.

Edited by Lithium
Awesome congrats! Great to see a track car doing it on the 1/4 too.

Yeah I don't see a "bloody kiwi" cutting it either, I think "Drag GTR" is about as made up class specific as most are really bothered in going for. I get rumour that the Japanese are starting to rediscover the fun that is drag racing, I reckon the M-Speed GTR could be a serious contender to it if they took that down the 1/4.

bloody kiwi's held the record for some time...Arthur Eyre from RE Sinclair.

bloody kiwi's held the record for some time...Arthur Eyre from RE Sinclair.

LOL Thats right, that was amusing - I think he could be blamed for making that up now that I think about it. I guess its nice to think you've done something better than everyone else with a similar kind of setup.

LOL Thats right, that was amusing - I think he could be blamed for making that up now that I think about it. I guess its nice to think you've done something better than everyone else with a similar kind of setup.

Yeah i think its a bit like 'who can do the most with the least' type situation.

a bit like the rotary boys with their 'untubbed rotary' class.

ahh well it doesn't matter to us now who does what, now the record has been broken...we were the first in the world to do it (run a 9)

if ANDRA rules allowed us to run 140+ without a chute we would have gone faster as i was holding 3rd gear at the end of the run to keep it under 140.

Russ...you could have ran a 9 too...aparantly anyone can go fast in a straight line...have you sold it? I heard a rumour there was serious interest north of you guys.

Edited by DiRTgarage
  • 2 weeks later...
i am just really happy we cracked into the 9's :worship: with good speed!!

and yeah Roy it was a real buzz.

basic specs are

GCG garret's equivelant to 2530's

Well done on the 9s run, just looking at your spec a pair of 2530s only produce 650hp or am I missing a trick?

I was looking for the biggest output low mounts for my car and DCD recommend -10 GT2860R - (2540s) without going custom.

Well done on the 9s run, just looking at your spec a pair of 2530s only produce 650hp or am I missing a trick?

I was looking for the biggest output low mounts for my car and DCD recommend -10 GT2860R - (2540s) without going custom.

Haha there was a huge thread on a GTR UK forum about this, people saying flat that either its not running the GT2860-5s, its running nitrous as well, or it never ran the time because its impossible on those turbos. With race gas, a good setup, and good tuning its clearly possible :domokun:

FYI, there is no such thing as GT2860-10s, its a name given to GT2871Rs which can be "bolton on" by someone who doesn't get it in my opinion. By Garretts own naming the "60" part of GT2860 refers to the exducer size of the compressor wheel, which with the "-10s" is 71mm. They're actually an equivalent of HKS GT-RSs (instead of GT2540s)... my best assumption is that some people call them GT2860-10s because the suffix of the part# is "-10" even though its a completely different family and also the fact that its a bolt on upgrade for the GTR and looks externally pretty similar.

They'd be a wicked turbo for a high-power low mount GTR, basically what DirtGarage has on his R32.

Well done on the 9s run, just looking at your spec a pair of 2530s only produce 650hp or am I missing a trick?

I was looking for the biggest output low mounts for my car and DCD recommend -10 GT2860R - (2540s) without going custom.

650 engine horsepower is enough to send something approaching 1400kg to that sort of mph so you're not missing anything mate. You're spot on.

F#*!K, im confused, Gt2840s-10witha60rs is the same as Garrett GT2540rs+.05inducer-boost pressure.

The car is a circuit car and ran a nine second pass with two turbos bolted to the standard manifolds. simple. great effort, that would be fun to try and chase around corners. i obviously have to sharpen up on my turbochargers. i thought about bolting two on mine but i think now that i wont, might get the wrong ones. lol

650 engine horsepower is enough to send something approaching 1400kg to that sort of mph so you're not missing anything mate. You're spot on.
  • 3 weeks later...

is this the same black r32 gtr that i saw on the ignition dvd, has the hi octane branding along the side?

if it is i watched this car do a hot lap about 10 times over which was recorded in japan, what a beautiful car

yep, it's the same car.

kranker, the boys will confirm but I believe it was running sunoco fuel. which it turns out may not have been a benefit as it tends to go off once the drum is cracked open. you can visibly see, smell and feel the stuff is different after a while sitting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...