Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have recently noticed that my car is seemingly taking a really long time to warm up... The guage itself is sitting low and i initially figured it was just the guage thats screwed, but the car is acting a bit sluggish for quite a while after i start driving, and i am worried that it is running rich while it thinks its cold...

It is an R33 gts-t series 1 (93), and the oil pressure is normal (starts of high when car is cold, and lowers and levels off after a couple of minutes).

Anyone had this kind of problem before? :D

Thanks guys

Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230377-warming-up-issue/
Share on other sites

you serious?? i had a big arguement with john at UAS saying i need a hotter thermostat since i got the new radiator and he wouldnt let me buy one, he made me get a stock one cos he said my thermostat must be blocked open as well.

If this thermostat dont fix the problem then i am going to make him stand on his head like he promised and send me the hotter one :P

More than Likely its the thermostat stuck open...i have that problem but mines due to having a 50mm thick radiator and oil cooler in winter :P

Cheers

Andrew

I had the same problem, but mine was stuck halfway open.

Would take forever to warm up, and then when sitting and idling in summer, the car would hit 110 degrees.

Changed it and now its on 83 degrees and won't move from there.

Just buy a R34 One .. is more efficent than r33 ones.

Ive got a similar problem of the temps hitting 90 when boosting.. Should I ..

A) replace thermostat.

B) replace the radiator

c) burn the car.. grr

Edited by DECIM8

I changed my thermostat with the 76deg one John at UAS suggested, he said he would stand on his head if it didnt fix the problem.

Looks like I aint going to go take a pic of him standing on his head, fixed my issue too. the rubber was breaking off and letting water through which was not allowing it to warm up.

before would never go above 65deg now its on 81 again :D

Yeah R34 Thermostat is #21200v7205

I must mention when I said its better it will raise the temp thermo temp to 82 degrees.. not drop it..

Depending on your circumstances it may not be a good idea.

A upgraded turbo/cam or generally highly modified car will not be happy with it as it will take abit to cool her down... if you running stock ecu id suggest you stick to the R33 one (if thats your car) which runs at about 76.5? from memory better for intake charge for one.

If you upgrade to a r34 one it will fire settings off at the wrong time, supposedly this is bad in some way.. ecu acts as if its on crack.

Im buying a new radiator now, will install the old thermostat and let you know if I have any change.. I run into 90 degrees atm its frezing cold btw so not to good.

Edited by DECIM8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...