Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

98 Skyline GTT NEO with following mods

Rb30 block crack and pressure tested, honed etc

crank nitrided

Argo rods

Cp 20 thou pistons ceramic coated

ACL bearings

Fully balanced

main studs

Jun oil pump/crank collar

N1 water pump

H.E sump

ati balancer

NEO head

Fully recon

port/polished and matched to inlet/exhaust manifold

gtr tomei 260 poncams/cam gears

performance wise springs/retainers

1000cc sards

hks gtr rail

head studs

oil restrictors

greddy plenum

q45 tb

6boost manifold

t04z (1.00)

48mm progate

ARE intercooler

greddy radiator

splitfires

HKS twin ignition

NPC twin clutch

haltech e11

x2 044

NOS kit

braided fuel lines underneath car

etc

Will post more pics this week. Power goal of 620rwhp and 700 with nos

post-27445-1217868316_thumb.jpg

post-27445-1217868340_thumb.jpg

Edited by drgnball34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

very good tyres and suspension tweaks...anything to help i guess but your right about spin city. Have you seen the 800rwhp+ supras going around in the usa on youtube? Hell they even got 1000hp beasts! I wont even bother launching the thing its pointless. Maybe roll ons on the freeway from 3rd gear :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4064605
Share on other sites

sounds like a mean build. What are the specs of your pistons? im using JE flat top pistons, but im worried about what the compression ratio is going to be. what is your dish/dome and deck clearance?

I just picked up my NEO head so ill be finding the CC of the chambers once i clean them and get a syringe and perspex :thumbsup: but i had a rough measure using a CD and measuring spoons and they look around 56cc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4083264
Share on other sites

CD and measuring spoon LOL, i love it. Im pretty sure thats about what i measures mine at. The flet top Pistons should work about right, thats what im using for my 25/30 NEO, and deending what the final measurements are, i could adjust the comp from about 8.4:1 to 9.2:1 depnding on th eheadgasket used

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4083714
Share on other sites

yea well im hoping they will be sweet. I initially got them custom made to suit vg30 rods for a better rod/stroke ratio but i was going to use them with an R32 RB25DE head i had. they have a bit of deck clearance so i have room to deck the head if need be as well as play round with gasket thickness, so i dont think it will be a problem :blink: . also, since i got custom cams made (276 10.5mm lift) for the r32 head, i figured that to run them in the r34 head im going to need to run the r32 CAS, and im not going to run vvt, just block up the oil feed hole

also, just out of interest, i thort r34 heads had bigger valves but they look the same as my r32 head. again i dont have proper measuring tools on me im gona bring them home from work on the weekend to suss everythin out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4085828
Share on other sites

I heard that the exhaust valves are bigger then the rb26's. They actually used r33 cp pistons which gave a higher comp ratio on the Neo head. But all technical aspects I would need to talk to the builder as my mechanical knowledge is little. It was pretty much drop my car off and let the workshop do their magic.

post-27445-1219544826_thumb.jpg

post-27445-1219544896_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4087754
Share on other sites

you wont be able to run those cams in the NEO head, the lift is too big.

yea well im hoping they will be sweet. I initially got them custom made to suit vg30 rods for a better rod/stroke ratio but i was going to use them with an R32 RB25DE head i had. they have a bit of deck clearance so i have room to deck the head if need be as well as play round with gasket thickness, so i dont think it will be a problem :( . also, since i got custom cams made (276 10.5mm lift) for the r32 head, i figured that to run them in the r34 head im going to need to run the r32 CAS, and im not going to run vvt, just block up the oil feed hole

also, just out of interest, i thort r34 heads had bigger valves but they look the same as my r32 head. again i dont have proper measuring tools on me im gona bring them home from work on the weekend to suss everythin out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4088146
Share on other sites

Is that r33 rb25 or r33 rb26 pistons they have used ??

If it is either, youll need to run some serious race fuel as your comp is going to be over 10 to 1

I heard that the exhaust valves are bigger then the rb26's. They actually used r33 cp pistons which gave a higher comp ratio on the Neo head. But all technical aspects I would need to talk to the builder as my mechanical knowledge is little. It was pretty much drop my car off and let the workshop do their magic.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4088148
Share on other sites

These NEO heads are really interesting and WAY different to any other rb25 head.

Hey Spoolup, do you mean I cant run the cams Ive got? I know they dont direct fit, ive had to grind a tiny bit off where the lobe catches the head around the edge of the lifter. BUT, in the R32 head i wuld have had to cut shitloads out but in this head i only had to cut a little bit. Maby this is partly because the Neo Buckets are wider diameter than r33 lifters, and a totally different design even to the gtr lifters. so far so good. the other thing is te shims in the Neo buckets are exactly the same diameter as Subaru shims, so thats a cheap alternative I used to get the clearance on my cams right coz theyre way more common to find

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4089037
Share on other sites

Yes they are a great head.

Just install your cams and turn the cam until you have a valve at maximum lift, then check your lifter and see if the oil gallery that runs along the lifters ( inside the head ) is exposed. If so you can not use them as you will never get oil pressure.

With my setup anything over 9.8mm lift exposed the oil gallery.

Im in the process of building a new head and trying to get around this my using small base cirlce cams and tipping the valves ( extending them )

Cheers

These NEO heads are really interesting and WAY different to any other rb25 head.

Hey Spoolup, do you mean I cant run the cams Ive got? I know they dont direct fit, ive had to grind a tiny bit off where the lobe catches the head around the edge of the lifter. BUT, in the R32 head i wuld have had to cut shitloads out but in this head i only had to cut a little bit. Maby this is partly because the Neo Buckets are wider diameter than r33 lifters, and a totally different design even to the gtr lifters. so far so good. the other thing is te shims in the Neo buckets are exactly the same diameter as Subaru shims, so thats a cheap alternative I used to get the clearance on my cams right coz theyre way more common to find

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4090057
Share on other sites

The tips of each valve is built up a little with weld - they are then ground to the determined length. Its cheaper than 24 custom valves.

With aftermarket springs there is enough room to run up to 12mm lift with out the springs binding - its just the oil gallery issue that needs to be resolved.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4090250
Share on other sites

ok, it seems your right but i think i have a plan. Im gona use gtr retainers and shims as they shim from underneath, so that will imitate the tipping your talking about. then, ill have to find some springs thatll be suitable or get some made, that shuldnt be too much of a prob. wat do ya think wise one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230963-rb2530-neo/#findComment-4093784
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...