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How did the shakedown go darren, did you manage to get out there?

I decided to write yesterday off, pretty gutted but what can you do :P

I wrote the day off as well thought it would be a bit wet and with the temp yesterday it wouldn't have given the cooling system any sort of workout. Is murphys law that the track dried out oh well what can you do. Will be really looking forward to the next track day.

Hey Darren,

First time I have read the thread from start to finish! Impressive!!! The car is going to be insane at QR.

have a couple of questions.

Are you that the R34 gearbox will take 550-600HP atw? Is your gearset stock? I'm pretty interested there as I am about to ditch my stock R32 GTR gearbox and have been pricing PPG, but dont wan't to. would like OS maybe. Even considered the hollinger! but its getting expensive.

Your dry sump setup. Was it a kit you purchased from Hi-Octane or did you put it all together? Any specifics on the pricing and inclusions you would like to share.

I killed a JUN oil pump at morgan park over easter and subsequently damaged my motor and need a dry sump setup, will be freshening up the motor (am tempted by 2.8 too) and need a stronger gearbox as 500-550hp atw will be the order of the day.

ps - please post here if you head out to any lakeside or qr sessions for a rundown as it would be good to say hi. Love the car. QLD is really getting some tuff track GTR's! :D

Cheers

Mick

great car and setup i am liking all these buildup threads lately giving me incentive to finish mine :D

+1 on info on the dry sump setup, i have a Jun pump on a big dollar bottom end and paranoid of a failure and dry sumping is looking likely before something happens i regret. whats a decent 4 or 5 stage pump worth etc? and what size are the lines for all the plumbing? dash 12s?

Mick i run a ppg dog set and its the best money ive spent, dont waste time with synchro boxes they are like chalk and cheese compared to the dog setups. I havent had any issues with mine so no need to deal with ppg but as far as the product goes i cant complain. mine handled hard driving in a 1750kg setup with 560awhp+ on drag launches and runs and no probs, the shifting is soo fast compared to sychro boxes.

Edited by unique1

mick personally I wouldn't go the 34 box. they are not really as strong as the 32/33 boxes. in fact a few 34 GTR owners both here and in japan have gone back to 33 boxes for their strength. the stock 34 boxes have problems with input shaft. though the nismo clutch kit for 34 comes with a new input shaft with different splines.

plus if you go 34 box you need new clutch set-up and new tailshaft too which adds some more cost.

I would look at getting something strong in the 33 box you have now, or consider OS88 or holinger but they are both $$$.

Are you that the R34 gearbox will take 550-600HP atw? Is your gearset stock? I'm pretty interested there as I am about to ditch my stock R32 GTR gearbox and have been pricing PPG, but dont wan't to. would like OS maybe. Even considered the hollinger! but its getting expensive.

im running 620hp through my stock 33 box :D but dan says i shift like a grandma so its ok :banana: Still havent decided if i want to get it cryo treated and stick with it, or if i should go to the OS set (the closer gear ratio's are appealing). Prices seem to rise exponentially when you start looking at gearbox options =\ anyone want to give me the $16k for a hollinger ? :laugh: Make it 32k so me and mick can both get one :laugh:

July 8th is Paul's next track day - hoping to see both of you guys there !! :)

I killed a JUN oil pump at morgan park over easter and subsequently damaged my motor and need a dry sump setup, will be freshening up the motor (am tempted by 2.8 too) and need a stronger gearbox as 500-550hp atw will be the order of the day.

I am sorry to hear of the Jun failure Mick.

That is the second one I heard of. The other one is Willo.

That is as rare as anything for circuit cars.

Do you know what caused the failure?

Hey guys thanks for the comments. Sorry to hear about your pump/engine dramas michael I saw your car at the nissan datsun nationals and your "drifting display" and have seen it at a few time attack days seems like a good thing so should be some stiff compition for me once your dramas are all sorted. Will keep you guys informed as to when i will be getting out to the track for a shake down but will definatly be a Pauls next time attack day if not before hand.

The gearbox that I am useing has the stnd gearset and I am pretty confident that it will handle the power without to much of a problem from all the research that i have done. I am not sure you a correct in stating that the R34 box is not as strong as the R33/32 box's Richard as i have had my gearbox guy pull the box down and he would definatly dispute that fact with you and from all the research that i have done it seems that it is the same box as the supra runs with a different casing obviously to accomadate the transfer case. And there are some guys in the states that are running high 8 sec 1/4 mile times with the stnd supra gearbox and i personally know of a couple of R34 GTR's that run consistant low 10 sec 1/4's with the stnd box and I would think that drag racing is going to be a whole lot harder on the box than the circuit stuff. The PPG box's are great to use on the track but they are also quite a high maintanence box if you adhere to PPG's recomendations (repalce dog rings every 2k and selector forks every 4k) and I also know of several guys that have destroyed them due to a few inherent design faults. My personal advice would be to stick with the os gearset if you are going to keep the R33/32 box or just go the whole hog and get the holinger. The problem with the OS88 sequential box is that it is designed primarily for drag racing and has no options for gearing making it not ideally suited to circuit racing.

The dry sump kit I put together myself with the exception of the sump pan wich i purchased from hi octane but I am currently getting some pans fabricated myself wich should be quite a bit cheaper than what hi octane sell them for. Mainly due to having access to laser cutting equipment and a cnc punch and pressbrake so will cut down on a lot of the time involved with hand fabricating them. The pump mount, pump drive on the balancer and the sandwich plate to delete the oil filter I have had made by a good mate with a lot of engeneering equipment.

I did this as being pretty much a dedicated track car i was not concerned about keeping the a/c and prefer to mount the pump where the a/c compressor usually sits rather than under the altinator wich is where the hi octane kit mounts the pump just makes thing a bit easier to get to for maintanence etc.

I used a peterson 5 stage pump as the hi octane kit is also only a 4 stage pump. I paid $1850 aud for the pump when i purchased it as i bought a couple so got a bit better pricing but that was also when the aud was a lot better than it currently is you would also need to allow 800-1000 aud for tanks and breathers etc. all the lines are -12 on the scavange and pressure and -16 on the return line. The major expence is in the braided lines and fittings.

If any of you guys are interested I can put together a full kit for you just send me a pm if you want any more details.

thanks for the replies.

yeah i have spoken to too many like minded people that have suffered in the hip pocked due to inherent design faults with a certain gearset. Was interested in OS, but you cant customise the sets. It's a bit of a hard choice.

$16k sounds cheap for a new hollinger? I thought they was about $20k?

interested in the dry sump... :(

I am sorry to hear of the Jun failure Mick.

That is the second one I heard of. The other one is Willo.

That is as rare as anything for circuit cars.

Do you know what caused the failure?

Hey Dan,

I had been pretty foolish when I have taken it to the drags and abused the limiter too hard.

I think on the circuit it will always cavitate anyway.

life goes on. want to get it fixed so it doesnt happen again! :(

Mick

I am sorry to hear of the Jun failure Mick.

That is the second one I heard of. The other one is Willo.

That is as rare as anything for circuit cars.

Do you know what caused the failure?

Mine cracked around the drive collar, really not sure why. I don't do any limiter bashing, even at the drags. I guess you just have to expect parts to wear out after 2 years of high rpm circuit work.

I know better to argue with you dazmo about the 32/33 vs 34 gearbox strength as my opinion doesn't come from any analysis of the components themselves but from experience with broken ones! personally I think both the 32/33 and the 34 boxes can hold a fair bit more power than most give credit for. It's quite possibly the synchro arrangment on the 34 boxes that is weaker than 32/33 the gears themselves may be as good or better. I don't know for certain. I have seen a couple of twisted input shafts in my time though.

I'm not sure about this $16K hollinger price? who is that through? I reckon I could flog a few at that price. I thought currently they were more like $22K.

I do agree with dazmo that in many ways your best to either spend very little or spend a lot. the midrange options seem poor value. if you keep breaking them you keep spending money and the PPG and PAR boxes need a lot of maintenance. you'll end up spending the $20K or so over a few years anyway so you may as well bite the bullet up front and go hollinger.

I am sorry to hear of the Jun failure Mick.

That is the second one I heard of. The other one is Willo.

That is as rare as anything for circuit cars.

Do you know what caused the failure?

Ive got two busted ones and know of another 2 that broke as well.

Pump failures are pretty common on circuit cars hence why anything serious is being dry sumped now days.

Just a quick update had the car back on the dyno over the weekend gave it just a very marginal increase in boost to

23psi. The ecu is still has a ref sync issue on the dyno limiting rpm to 7100 getting some form of interferance so will check out all the wireing. But I am leaning towards it being caused by resonence from the exhaust in the dyno cell as once everthing was checked over and trimmed up a little we proceeded to take it for a few trips around the block where the and downloaded the lambda and logging from the ecu and the rpm trace is spot on. So 8500 rpm without a problem at all. Obviously not beeing able to give it full rpm on the dyno i can not tell you what the final power figure at max rpm is but i can say just from seat of the pants that it would no doubt be a little over the 600hp.

I think i will leave the car in this configuration for a while as there is not to much injector left and i doubt i will need anymore power at this stage as the car seems to go reasonably well as it is. sS as soon as we get some clear weather it will be off to the track for a shake down. and then just tidy up a few loose ends with ducting etc. and still need to wire up my data logger (RUZIC engineering race logger) and change the gearbox before i have a crack at some lap times. Bear in mind that the driver will be the biggest handycap the car will have. Should have some pics of some fancy driveline bits by the end of the week.

Hey Michael I dont have any decent pics that show the sump pan very well I will take a few pics and send you a pm of the sump pan in the next few days as i should have one finnished pretty soon there are some pics of the tank and breather set up in my boot at the start of my thread.

Here are some pics of the pump set up. The first 2 pics are not my engine but one i prepaired earlier this is the engine in 26R32 you can see the belt set up i refered to in an earlier post with the large tapered washer on the front of the pump drive that works as a guide for the belt to stop any drift of the belt. The last two are of my engine just to give you an idea of what the oil block that replaces the heat exchanger and the pump mounting bracket look like. Sorry about the poor phone quality pics though.

post-15992-1244023328_thumb.jpg

post-15992-1244023351_thumb.jpg

post-15992-1244023543_thumb.jpg

post-15992-1244023561_thumb.jpg

nice pics of the DS set-up. I could stare at that for a while...

how cool are the HKS Kansai Dry Carbon Kevlar covers? I was in tokyo about 4 years ago when HKS Kansai released those covers (and the plain carbon fibre ones). I was speaking to the owner of HKS Kansai (turtle man!) and he was so proud of them and wanted me to understand that they were REAL DRY CARBON.

I said, nice carbon covers. he said NO! Do-rai ka-bon keb-lar! ka-bon keb-lar! then he proceeded to take one off the wall, put it on the floor and jumped up and down on it. he then asked me to stand on it. I really didn't want to, but gingerly put some weight on it. it held. they are very nice and actually reasonable value considering they are not much mroe than all the rip off ones out there and the rip offs certainly are NOT dry carbon.

I regret not buying some. as he was leaving he offered me the last 2 sets very cheap so he wouldn't have to take them all the way back to osaka with him. I already had more shit than I could carry and had in fact just lost 2 bags full of gear like trust jackets etc due to having too much, so I turned him down. d'oh. bad move.

anyway, it looks like you are 9/10ths of the way finished. now the set-up can begin. :D

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