Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 373
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

http://ripsltd.com/products.html

that basicaly goes through everything. if you are only looking for 300-350kw range the stock internal bottom end is fine (good for 600hp and 7200rpm) remember that all pricing on their site is in NZD not AUD.

Anyone know where is good to order online that is pretty quick?? I am after parts first week of November. Got a few places but not sure if they have all that I need so would be good to shop around.

Cheers :banana:

Send it up Kat...our head work is top shelf PM Jz R33 as we just did an engine for him that he picked up on Saturday.

Our engines have a proven track record taking out several Autosalon power championships and powering our R32 drag car to win the Australian title in 2004-2005. We have just built our current engine in our race car to push over the 1000hp mark and into the 8 sec bracket.

Im doing a couple of engines for ACT customers actually...you may know some of them.

Kat, make sure you consider this post!

LOL I'm happy to have 4wd and the more power she gets the happier I am! Haha rather have traction than fishtail down Gungahlin drive like what was happening when I had no front wheels engaging! :)

Do you know what yours dynos at the rear??

no idea at the moment...only got a 3 inch zorst and pod so i cant imagine more than 140ish 150ish at the wheels...plus i took the boost controller off so its running stock boost at the moment :) still enough compared to the old pulsar but.

it's booked in to autotech next tuesday, they are going to check air / fuel, try and diagnose that sensor problem thats making the car feel crap. hopefully give me a power figure then. when i spoke to the guy today he said it might jsut be easier to get a power fc so i can tune it n stuff...we'll see.

i bet the fishtail was fun hey? i had my first powerslide incident coming out of a round about the other day when it was raining...not as bad as what i expected it to be but...

Power FC FTW!!! Best thing I ever bought for it.... So far :)

Compared to the Pulsar must feel like a rocket!! I remember getting in the GTR for the first time after driving around a non turbo for 4 or 5 years... Haha OMG!!! :)

Well I've always had good results from those guys so they should be able to sort it out for you. I wasn't sure how stock yours was. At least it's nice and tidy, I like stock so then you can do whatever you want to it. Modding = expensive but awesomes!!!

LOL was a bit embarrassing cause was unplanned!

yeah my awesome powerslide was pretty much me jsut out of a roundabout...was going straight and put my foot down...hit boost was fine...hit 4K = loss of traction pluss bit of a kick

was kinda cool hehe.

where di u source your FC from kat??? can autotech get them or do i have to go through an online shop?? ive never shopped online before lol :) somewhere local supply them??

guess ill wait for them to tell me what the problem is first.

Sinista v1.0 (Black GTST) ran 178rwkw. Pod, Zorst, T-peice boost controller and 2530 turb.

Sudden stop at metal bus stop by next owner ~ 0rwkws :)

Wit you Jayce 3 local votes

Edited by Sinista32
Guys that have done this all before me, can you please let me know wht brands you have used for....

Cams

Pistons

Conrods

Injectors

Oil Pump

I have some ideas now and wanna hear what everyone else is using :banana:

Cheers.

Just been through it all, engine is at the builders now!

Cams: Tomei, Hks or other (not sure were already in engine)

Pistons: i went with Mahle pistons (Probably one of the best pistons you can buy) were around $900

Conrods: i went with Pauter. (also one of the best money could buy at the time) also were around $800

Injectors: i bought some 800cc injectors (i think they are denso) from slide on this forum (in the for sale trader section)

Oil Pump: Using N1 pump still. (with a well balanced bottom end, and staying away from rev limit launches etc they will be fine) will be looking at dry sump later on

Best thing to get is the nismo full engine gasket kit too @ around 4-500 bucks its very good value :P and you wont have problems with leaky aftermarket gaskets and seals..

I bought most of my engine parts in the Usa, while the dollar was at around .95, therefor i spend a bit more money and got myself Very good parts.

also got a n1 water pump for around 200 bucks from the usa..

As for other bits and pieces (jap branded stuff) got most of them from www.greenline.jp

I'm close to the 10k mark already tho i did buy a complete n1 motor as that was ment to go straight in........ haha

Edited by Angus Smart

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...