Install Ideas

[B-Man]

Howday Folks,

I've taken my old stereo of the previous car and am now planning to put into the Skyline R33 when it arrives.

Wanting to know people's experinces, thoughts, comments, gotcha's on installation ??

This is what I have:

12" Kicker Sub - In Box

Bridged Kicker Amp for Sub

Rockford Fosgate 6x9 for the rear

Kicker 6" splits for the front

Sony Xplode Amp for Front's and Rears

Sony Head Unit

Will all this stuff fit in ?? Where is the best place for Amps ?? Is there anything I could be doing now to prepare for install (considering I don't have the car yet)

Thanks all,

Brendan

[d0p3y]

First off, Unless you know your shiznit as far as wiring goes, i suggest you get a professional to install it, and test all your wiring. However i suggest you avoid stores such as Strathfield Car Radio's - and go to a reputable Car Audio specialist. There's a fair few around. I reccomend Fairfield Car Audio and Into Sound. They're both very good Checking wiring on a import when you first get it is important in my opinion, as Japanese people seem to like to do crazy things with their wiring. You never know what's been done, and if anything has been crossed over and it's doing the system damage.

First off - Installing the sub. Build a box (Or get one of the companies mentioned above to make one) Of at least 16mm thick MDF to the manufactueres specifications, unless you've already got a box. Face the sub backwards towards the boot lid/tail lights.

As far as mounting the amps goes, are you going to do a flush mounted installation or you just want to whack everything in the boot? If you just want to whack everything in the boot - I suggest you mount the amps on a 19mm thick piece of MDF attached to the back of the subwoofer box, or on a piece of (carpeted) MDF on the floor of the boot. Mounting them on MDF is a good idea - screwing them into the floor of your boot is not. Try attaching the MDF to the floor by using a good, strong velcro. I suggest the same with the sub box. You'll need a fair bit of velcro - But it's the best way. It also means you can remove everything with very little fuss.

For the 6x9's - I suggest you make a new parcel shelf from 16mm MDF or thicker. I've mentioned about this in another thread NDR started, go and have a look. There's a thread about making a new parcel shelf with pods - i highly reccomend you build one you'll thank me later

As for the front splits - You'll probrably want to keeep the stock mounting positions yeah? Well make a nice MDF ring for them before mounting, and i suggest you put a little bit of sound deadner on the inside of your door trims and stuff them with Dacron. It won't add much weight to the car at all - and it will make the splits sound ALOT better.

Hope that helps you a little

Ryan

[B-Man]

Ryan,

Thanks for the tips dude.

I was thinking about flush mounting the amps. Maybe one on each side (left & right), mounted vetically. The sub is already in a MDF box that is covered. I'll stick that in the middle facing back, as you say - Velcro Idea is good - Where do you get that mcuh Velcro from ??

Re: Cabling , I was thinking of running all new cabling so I know what is what - I'm pretty handy when it comes to stuff like this.

I read your parcel tray thread - sounds like the go - even if a bit fiddly. Any one have a template or do you just 'suck it and see' ??

Where is the spare tyre in the R33 ?? Is it a space save job in the boot ?? Might have to think about accessability to this.

Is there a good place to mount the tweeters (splits) on the dash ?? Or should they be mounted with the 6"s? ??

What about alternator / ignition noise ? I will run the power down one side and RCA's down the other - But on some of my cars, I can still hear a slight ignition noise. Is there a better way to do this in an R33 ??

Cheers.

Brendan

[d0p3y]

If you flush mount, make sure to have a couple of 12V fans to give the amps air.

The spare tyre is a space saver type - mounted on the bottom of the boot. you could make a removable false floor too.. however R33's have small, deep boots.

[B-Man]

Thanks Ryan,

I've always rushed my Stereo installs so I can have a same day result - this time I'm gonna take my time and do a schweet job

bF

[Guest Crazyfcuk]

take a look at my web site if your looking for ideas.

theres a fan sucking cold air out of the bottom amp and cap rack, and also one one the top rack which funnels out the boot close pressure thingie on the bottom right hand side.

go to www.cardomain.com/id/crazyfcuk

[Guest barneyrubble]

the r33 has the battery is mounted in the boot, i run my amps off the battery and i have no problems with engine/alternater noise. The power runs are very short, you might need to change your battery also, mine was a sh%$^& it was the original nissan skyline branded battery, which i would assume be about 9 years old.

[Guest Crazyfcuk]

I had ignition noise problems as well with my first install in my line, but then i changed to pro series leads (gold terminal ones) with foil shielded cables, this reduced the noise, but it was still evident, so i changed my head deck to a newer one and now it is clear as with no whine at all.

[funkymonkey]

dump the sony's it'll improve your audio dynamics and placement 300%

sorry, I jus hate xplod

the rest of the gear is quality, are the kicker subs the square isobraic ones?