Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is there any weight saving? aerodynamics with less wire all over the place?

not sure about weight savings. don't have the actual specs yet though, but i reakon it would probably weigh more because it has to have the battery and the motor, etc. still run cables. don't have the catalogue with it in yet so have only be going off very small pics on their online ordering site. they don't even have them listed on their main website yet.

also if the battery, charger and cables aren't included in the price above (not sure if they will be because i just got the individual prices for the shifters and 2 derailleurs and added it all up) then you can add another $650 onto the price. taking it to around $4000 for the setup. and that doesn't include cassestte or cranks. so what you pay for just the electronic setup, you could nearly buy a complete bike running the manually operated version. and at least then if something goes wrong you know that any bike shop will be able to fix it, as this requires a diagnostic tool which wholesales at over $400 (depending on the problem). something i'm sure as hell not going to invest in.

and yeah campag is good.... if you can afford it. 11 speed ftw

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok, just spoke to mate from a shop in brissy who went to the shimano trade show last night. they had the di2 stuff there. looking at about $3600 to $3800 for the full electronics kit (shifters, battery, cables and derailleurs). he said it is ok, but it seems to be more something they have done as a prototype, like how car company make all those cars for the international car shows each year and half of them never actually go into production, and the ones that do often flop after 6 months. he said the some of the stuff was pretty rough (such as the diagnostics unit) and looked like it had been made out of a lunchbox and some lights.

something interesting that he pointed out was that if it is fitted to a carbon frame (and some lightweight alloy frames) and a special backing plate is left off when mounting the front derailleur, you will end up with a hole in your frame the first time you change gears. this is because of the fork in which the motor has to push on the frame to move the derailleur. he also said it has some trimming functions which it automatically does. this is when, for example, you are in the smallest cog on the cranks and the largest on the hub (easiest gear) and if you then change down to the smallest cog on the rear, the derailleur will move over slightly to stop the chain rubbing on it. most of the road bike shifters already have this function though, it just isn't automatic. you just move the shifter about half or what you normally would to change gears.

found this video on youtube about it

ahaha, not quite jase, cause he would have to post the wheels up here first.

no i'm not in vic, i'm in qld

lacing isn't that hard to do once you know what you are doing. if you don't know what you are doing, even just trying to copy a wheel you have sitting next to you can end in disaster. if someone brings a wheel in to me that they have tried to lace and stuffed up, i charge extra to fix it because i have to start from scratch (charge a fee for removing the spokes). often what they do it tighten each spoke up all the way before they put in the next spoke and this ends in disaster (and can end up stuffing the rim)

the problems from incorrect lacing range from sideways buckles (easy to fix), incorrect offset/dish (also easy to fix... most of the time), up and down buckles (harder to fix), rims being damaged (can't be fixed)

if all you are doing is changing the spokes but using the same rim and hub (or changing rims and using old spokes and hub), this is generally pretty easy as you don't have to calculate the spoke length. you can just measure the length of the old spokes.

dishing is also easy, again if you know what you are doing. generally using 2mm shorter spokes on the drive side will give you enough difference to dish it easily.

I should be getting my stuff online from now on, and i can actually post you the rims/hubs and when you're done, you can mail it to me, but its just a thought.

I should be getting my stuff online from now on, and i can actually post you the rims/hubs and when you're done, you can mail it to me, but its just a thought.

cost of postage will probably cost you about $60 all up. maybe more (just guessing). then you have to hope they don't get buckled in transit.

as for buying online, make sure you shop around first and compare the prices to your local shop and take into account the cost of postage. if it is an american online store it will more than likely be lots cheaper, but if it is an aussie store, by the time you take into postage often it will work out to be pretty close to any normal shop. with bmx stuff i run it at the same price as the main aussie online stores, so when the kids come in with something they bought from them i usually make fun of them telling them they would've got it cheaper through me. as for buying stuff from out of the country, if it is something that comes with warranty, to claim the warranty you have to go through where you bought it. you can't just take it into a shop near you and try to claim it (since most companies require proof of purchase for a claim).

and something i meant to add about the electic shifters, i think it will end up being like the air powered shifters shimano brought out a few years back. expensive as hell and no-one bought them

cost of postage will probably cost you about $60 all up. maybe more (just guessing). then you have to hope they don't get buckled in transit.

as for buying online, make sure you shop around first and compare the prices to your local shop and take into account the cost of postage. if it is an american online store it will more than likely be lots cheaper, but if it is an aussie store, by the time you take into postage often it will work out to be pretty close to any normal shop. with bmx stuff i run it at the same price as the main aussie online stores, so when the kids come in with something they bought from them i usually make fun of them telling them they would've got it cheaper through me. as for buying stuff from out of the country, if it is something that comes with warranty, to claim the warranty you have to go through where you bought it. you can't just take it into a shop near you and try to claim it (since most companies require proof of purchase for a claim).

and something i meant to add about the electic shifters, i think it will end up being like the air powered shifters shimano brought out a few years back. expensive as hell and no-one bought them

Yeah, that was just a thought.

CRC does free shipping for purchases over GBP$400. They're pretty cool, i've ordered from them. And their stuff are pretty competitively priced. Like how the RS Reba costs $899 here but on CRC, its sub $600 after conversion to AUD. If i tack on some other random stuff, which i don't really need, i probably can get the free shipping.

Back in singapore we used to do mass orders since singapore was so small, one end to the other takes an hour or less.

And i reckon its hard to beat aspirevelotech's prices for chris king stuff.

I remember seeing them ages ago in AMB mag, they had a 'subscribe and win' comp with them as the major prize. weren't they made primarily for DH/FR?

yeah they were dh/fr gear. only problem was in a crash the air lines were getting ripped off and the tanks were getting damaged, etc.

i have built up 3 wheels this morning. 1 bmx and 2 hybrid wheels. when i was taking the old spokes out of the rear hybrid wheel (i was cutting them cause i had to put new spokes in) and the old spokes had a common problem where they are supposed to be stainless but rust and start breaking, even if there is no pressure on the wheel (can let go with the bike just sitting there). anywho back to my story, i had cut about 2 spokes and was about to cut the 3rd spoke and a different spoke let go and shot up and hit the roof (about 4m high roof) hard enough to make a dent. i've had them let go while the wheel was on it's side and they have flown about 15m across the shop

yeah. sealed bearing run bearings that look like bigger skateboard bearings

although if a bike says on its specs that it has "mechanically sealed" then they are looseball, they just have dust seals..... like every other loose ball hub, LOL

jesus... loose ball then... haha sorry for sounds impatient but i cant get on sau during work hours which is the only time i can contact you... stupid new job... and their stupid.. ive had it up to HERE with their.... REWWWELLLS.

all i wanna know is how much you bai for purple anodised machined-for-brake velocity deep V wheels

=)

Sealed bearings and cartridge bearings.. whats the diff?

And the bearings in the king headset, are sealed yeah?

sealed and cartridge will generally be the same, however in some circumstances it can mean a slightly different setup (bearings themselves will be the same, just how they are held in is different).

rowan, i'll get you a price today

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...