Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok, they don't do an anodized purple, only powder coat. they also only do sealed bearing but the velocity sealed bearing wheels roll pretty well. you are looking at RRP of around $450 (plus postage). price to you $350 plus postage. however i'm not sure how much postage will be or if it would even be possible to post as it is going to be very clost to the limit as far as size goes for posting through australia post. and sending it any other way will cost too much

saw some cool stuff at the apollo bike show. flat bar fixy for $700, road handlebar fixy for about $900. they are pretty retro (even have a retro style badge on them). i was talking to the owner of apollo about them and he said that they only sell because they are basically a fashion item (and he thinks they are a completely stupid idea). he said it's all the chappel st types that are buying them. anyone who actually wants to ride because they like riding and aren't a yuppy who will only buy something because it is the current fad will go flat bar. which kinds of explains why you have one rowan, LOL. you are like sau's resident bruno.

probably the coolest thing there was a road bike with top of the line SRAM red gears which have a computer built into the cranks that give you a readout of how many watts you are putting out. oh and it only weighs 7kg (complete bike). the bike is only $12500 for anyone looking at putting it on their christmas list i think they are also doing a version without those specific cranks which drops the price down to about $8000 or $9000. there was also their top of the line MTB which is running new sram XX gears. it is a 20 speed mtb gearset. so you have 2 at the front and 10 at the back. it also has the new remote hydraulic lockout forks. in the past all remote lockout forks have been cable operated. these new ones are hydraulic, making the action lighter and easier to do as it is just a button you push in. it is around $8000

the best thing there that is actually worth talking about though, is the new urban bikes. basically this comes into the market between hybrids and mtbs. hybrids were more aimed at the more mature rider. very comfortable seating positions, etc. urbans come are designed for people who want a mtb to ride on the road. basically people like jase. they have slightly wider, chunkier tyres than hybrids (so will go offroad a little bit more), slightly better suspension than a hybrid, but not as much travel as a mtb, and most of all, not so much of an upright frame. they are actually more like what you see some bicycle couriers use overseas (the ones who aren't too busy being 'individual' by following the trend of riding fixies. i will post up pics of them tomoro (will just be copied from the catalogue, which is out in the car and i'm too lazy to go get it, and i can't connect my phone to this computer anyway) but they look really cool. if it wasn't for the fact that i want to get another road bike, i would sell my mtb and get one as they just look cool and make more sense than a mtb with road tyres as they are lighter and better suited for road use than a mtb, but aren't as much of a pure road bike as a flat bar, and aren't as grampa as a hybrid. only slight let down was the price. they are a bit more than the equivilant mtb, but there are reasons for that which i couldn't be bothered going into (but it isn't just because they are aiming them at yuppies who they think will pay the money)

haahaaa marc very funny take the piss now that i hav a job with no nett and cant fight bak

in my defence im not a fixie rider AND NEVER WANT TO BE

im not a cafe strip dwelling shit head with no job who built a fixie with ebay parts. onliy toride it 3km a day toand from my studio apartment.

the difference between me and a fixy doucher are...

i kept mybrakes - they come handy

i hav dropbar- flat is useless in wind.

i wear a a HELMET. nota cid riding cap.

i use my bike tocommute ~45km aday. the capo is not like other made fixys. it weighs far less than most bikes ive felt. commuting on perths bike paths ive only been been beaten by a red specialized carbon road racer... but he was gnarly speed.... inshort im not a fixy rider n mybike isnt a fixy... its atrackbike with brakes on it and ts insanely fast!! and i love it

oh another difference is iknowa lot about bikes .. fixy fans seemto not know shit from clay

in further news the alias still gets used a lot... im going trails/xc riding every saturday itsgiven me a whole new appreciation for it... im still learning but the others push me hard to hammer the downhill s

ps jase for an mtb skinnyslick look at maxxis xennith.. they may look fat but contact patch is skinny so they do roll good... my only complaints are.. theres no side tread meaning no ?bite? wen u lean into corner so takes getting used to.. also thy very sticky like glue which giv gr8 traction but i qudstion their longevity ... but for how cheap they are just thrash for 3 or4 months and get a new set

ps spelling ,miastakesr cos typing wit ps3 remote like a loser

  • 2 weeks later...

so you have often heard people talk about chain stretch and thought nothing of it. generally once a chain hits 1% stretch it is time for a new one. here is one that was too stretched to measure (i put the indicator on it and put it to 1% and it had slop of about 1.5mm, LOL).

the chain on the left is a new chain. the longer chain on the right is the old chain. it has the same number of links as the new chain. i measures about 4cm longer. that is why if you ever need a new chain you don't measure the old one to see now long the new one needs to be, you go off the number of links.

dsc00759q.jpg

oh and i meant to add that by the time the chain got to being that stretched it also required new cassette and cranks because the chainrings were too worn to just put a new chain on and have it work. yet if they had put a new chain on ages ago they wouldn't have needed new cassette and cranks yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Either the WG is reaching full opening, or it is not. The "it is not" case could only occur if there was not enough time available to swing the valve fully open during that boost event. I would consider that to be unlikely, as this is a commercial product that is in use elsewhere, so it really should work. But in your case, because there is definitely SOMETHING wrong, it should not be assumed that things like that are working as they should. You should put a video camera where it can see the actuator (if at all possible) during a run to see how far it is moving.
    • I think you're mostly on the ball there. With the straight gate, I suspect the weight of the spring will determine how quickly the gate can close, when not run with active pressure drive on both sides of the diaphragm. Otherwise, with drive on both sides of the diaphragm, you could almost go without a spring at all, only needing one to make sure that the thing was actually closed while completely off boost and not having pressure available to drive it closed. Butterfly valves have mostly symmetric loading when there is flow going through them, meaning that the gas hitting the upstream part of the blade is balanced by the gas hitting the downstream part of the blade, which means you don't need actuator torque to overcome any non-symmetric flow induced loads. But the gas flow does impart a purely normal load against the shaft, which transfers into the bush/bearing at each end of the shaft and does increase the torque required to make the shaft turn. Only a little, but it is there. I have no feeling for the amount of force involved in a WG application, but it certainly could make an argument for a decent spring weight being required. But all of this is just peripheral to the actual problem here.
    • The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
    • lol nice, I wouldn't worry about sanding back the filler to check for rust then. Yep very much a thing. Personally I don't do the panel beating, its very easy to have a panel beater sort that out for you. If they aren't doing any prep work the actual panel beating generally doesn't take long at all.  Have you taken before pictures before you started this project? I'd be keen to see the before and afters when you're done.
    • Some good discussion in here, for the most part I can't really add too much to it - thought I'd add some notes to the datalog screen shot that probably aren't news to anyone but a good prop... this is assuming 25psi-ish should be the boost ceiling given the first post refers to 23psi.   To state the obvious, this issue seems super weird.  Turbo speed seems pretty lethagic to build, like the turbo isn't getting as much drive as it needs - and it doesn't help that wgdc keeps rising AFTER boost target then completely shuts duty at a point, which in theory should have the straight gate dump heaps past the turbo and funnily enough causes the huge drop off.  It seems like pretty blunt boost control tuning but I'd not call that the primary issue, so much as possibly not helping the situation. I'm curious, what does a pull look like with purely mechanical boost control?  Like purely wastegate?   There are things in this log and story that make it sound like there could be a significant restriction in the intercooler piping or something - but then it's also overshooting boost target which is NOT what you'd expect with a restriction.   I can see where people are coming from with the non-linear wastegate bypass (not that any valves are linear for this kind of thing), but it still doesn't make sense that it can't hold <20psi on a 12psi spring.    Have you, or can you try measuring pressure pre-intercooler?  Be pretty interesting to see what's happening there vs in the intake manifold - sorry if I've repeated old ground, I've kinda skimmed over but I could have missed something.  In terms of comments regarding the wg spring being closer to boost target, I haven't used a straight gate but part of the reason for having close to wg target is about fighting backpressure as well - I might be wrong, but I'd have thought that part of the point of using a butterfly valve like the straight gate does you actually don't have to resist pressure at all, on EITHER side of the gate.   It shouldn't need too much leverage to start opening, the spring being more to do with where it triggers opening as opposed to resisting boost & EMAP, though smarter people can correct me if I'm wrong there.  
×
×
  • Create New...