Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 months later...

marc, do you have, uhh, spare cheap 26in rims that can take a beating and are pretty wide??? i dont mind 2nd hand stuff... because i'm building this...

I have a hadley front hub in black, i'm going for an a2z rear hub, or a pink king if i can find one.. shitmano deore hydro discs, and i'm running lx hollowtech cranks, Singlespeed for now..

post-61332-0-43785700-1299217575_thumb.jpg

Edited by xALmoN

rhynolites ding quite easily.. if only i could still source those tioga DH rims, could run really really low pressures and still be pinch flat proof!

and i'm thinking of building my own wheels, with a ghetto trueing stand made from a fork.. anything i need to take note of? or should i just send it to the shop.. but how much is labour here for buiilding wheels? dont need fancy ti spokes, standard steel ones will do. need a rough guide

mavic 521s were really good too...

Edited by xALmoN

I'm curious, what is the intended riding of the bike going to be? And I disagree on rhyno's dinging easily, I ride trials and have been witness to a lot of rim punishment and they stand up quite well to what gets dished at them.

trials/street/xc

gonna be running 26t in front and a 105 cog on the rear... everything bike, i want to be able to wheelie down the street, and then be able to pedal hop up the bench, then go ride in the trails.. i'm actually looking to get an older fox float rlc.. that rigid fork is only temporary, but its going to be a do everything bike..

well. i have an oval shaped rhynolite somewhere in my storeroom back in singapore.. too many stair gaps i reckon but those were the red ones.. with ground walls even! And you can't really run super low pressures on those... they go pssssst easily, But then do they still make those? I heard they've been out of production for awhile already.

My fav rims really are still the tioga dh.. there are new rims on the market, like the ztr flow, i've heard quite good things about those.. but really frankly speaking, i'm really still stuck in 2003... that frame was from that time.

rhynolites ding quite easily.. if only i could still source those tioga DH rims, could run really really low pressures and still be pinch flat proof!

and i'm thinking of building my own wheels, with a ghetto trueing stand made from a fork.. anything i need to take note of? or should i just send it to the shop.. but how much is labour here for buiilding wheels? dont need fancy ti spokes, standard steel ones will do. need a rough guide

mavic 521s were really good too...

To build a truing stand out of a set of forks won't work that well because rear hubs are much wider than fronts.

Can't really say what labour will be but i would say to expect around $100 for both wheels to be built

rhynolites ding quite easily.. if only i could still source those tioga DH rims, could run really really low pressures and still be pinch flat proof!

and i'm thinking of building my own wheels, with a ghetto trueing stand made from a fork.. anything i need to take note of? or should i just send it to the shop.. but how much is labour here for buiilding wheels? dont need fancy ti spokes, standard steel ones will do. need a rough guide

mavic 521s were really good too...

OT but:

Frame and stem combo might be a a little short for pedal hopping and bouncing around on the back wheel, But it does sound like fun, man I miss my STP Zero I used to have :ermm:

Back on topic, if you haven't built many wheels before you're better off getting some who knows what they're doing to lace them up for you. A good wheel builder will put together a lot stronger wheel with the same parts then you could expect to do on your first try....

Edited by JKR-32

if its about $100 for both wheels, then that's a pretty fair price, comparable to what i pay in singapore..

well, i used to ride a planet x jackflash.. and a echo pure.. they're long frames, but i had this stag as an xc bike for a bit. it works pretty well, with a short stem and rear wheel stuff, i'm not a big guy, so it probably won't matter that much. but then again, i've got a longer truvativ stem somewhere, but we'll see how this set up goes..

now i'll just have to source the rims and the rear hub..

  • 3 weeks later...

http://au.news.yahoo.com/thewest/a/-/offbeat/9046297/bicycle-made-with-computer-printer/

A bicycle made of nylon is said to be as strong as aluminium and steel - and yet it was made using a printer and computer.

The fully functioning cycle weighs 65 per cent less than a regular bike.

"Scientists in Bristol designed the bike on a computer and sent it to a printer, which placed layers of melted nylon powder on top of each other to build-up the machine," The Daily Mail has reported.

"Individual components such as gears, pedals and wheels are usually made in different factories and assembled into a finished bike but the Airbike is a single, complete part.

"The wheels, bearings and axle are incorporated into the 'growing' process, known as Additive Layer Manufacturing."

The Airbike - made by the European Aeronautic Defence and Space group - could be built to the rider's specifications and required no adjustment, conventional maintenance or assembly, The Mail said.

"The 3-D printing method allows products to be made from a fine powder of nylon, carbon-reinforced plastics or metals such as titanium, stainless steel or aluminium," The Mail said.

"They are drawn using computer-aided design and then sent to a printer, which is filled with the powdered material.

"A computer splits the 3-D design into many 2-D layers and a laser beam is used to melt the powder material into the first of the layers.

"This is then covered by a new layer of powder and the process is repeated with the next 'slice'."

The manufacturing process used about one-tenth of the material required in traditional methods, reducing waste.

"The technology is likely to be used in industrial applications such as aerospace, the motor industry and engineering," The Mail said.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

Well i need your advice on this one. After one of my staff bought a Giant Cross City 1 flat bar road bike to ride with me to work I can resist the urge to ditch the mountain bike for my work commute and buy one of these bad boys.

So i have been offered two pretty good deals one obviously better than the other

2011 Giant Cross City 1 - $1000 inc 1 free service

The other is 2010 GT shown here: http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2010&Brand=GT&Model=Tachyon+3.0&Type=bike

The beauty of the Tachyon is the very cheap price i am getting for, as its 2010 model I am getting it for $600 including 12 months free service so about 8 services in total. He was selling them for $900 6 months ago but now trying to get rid of em.

I have already bought a bike from the guy offering me the tachyon nice and cheap and the services always have been quality, his customer service aint the best but his prices are so cheap!

So what are your thoughts, cross city or tachyon 3? I like the fact that these are more path friendly than road bikes as a lot of my cycling is around a very large lake on the way to work so about 70 percent is path riding.

Also is there any upgrades you would propose? As I may be saving $400 i could be tempted to spend a couple of hundred just to give it an extra edge against the Giant Cross City 1

My staff member came to the shop with me today and had a ride on the Tachyon, he said he could not feel too much of a difference between his cross city 1 and the tachyon, but i am his boss so he could just be trying to be nice

Really would love to get your opinion on this....

Ok so i had a look at the specs. If the giant is in fact the cross city 1 and you can get it for $1000 (rrp of $1299) then do it. It's a much better bike than the gt. Even if it is the cross city 2 then i'd still go it (but change the stem to a fixed stem as the adjustable ones are shit).

Cheers for your help with this!!

You guys are going to think i am an idiot though as i couldnt resist. I bought it for $600 today. The Tachyon 3 by GT that is. I think the Giant is still a better bike, both the cross city 1 and the 2010 crx but the price of this was so cheap and the years free servicing i couldnt knock back as it has come in good value with my last bike especially in winter when the water would dry out all of the gears.

I think for $600 i could ride it for a year, sell it for $500 and in the mean time save up for a VERY nice bike indeed. I saw that Carbon flat bar road bikes are makin there way onto the scene so i recon i will end up with one of them in the future when funds allow.

For $600 i was really impressed with it and could only feel some minor differences between it and the Giant. The Giant had beautiful running gear (Shimano 105) and the gear changes felt amazing but for me being an amateur rider just commuting too and from work that was really all i could feel that was different. The Giant Cross City looks F*(kn hot though in white so that was the other factor. but for $400 difference i couldnt see that much of a difference.

So, NOW that i have this bike and have saved $400, what mods would you do? Remember i spent over 50k on my 33gtst so i cannot help to mod somehting on this bike.

Wheels?

Groupset?

anything else i could do to go quicker/better?

ahhaha!

I sell it to my wife that i save petrol money riding to and from work, what i dont tell her is that the amount of energy i am burning i need to maintain my size so i spend a lot of money at the cafe instead, so saving money from petrol for the car, but buying more food petrol for me :-)

Is it worth any sense putting a good set of wheels on it? if so any decent quality ones that would be an upgrade for me?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...