Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what do you mean by paying it off in instalments?

also how much of it are you planning on putting on your old bike? if you swap pretty much everything over and then put all your old gear on the new bike and then sell it as a complete then it will probably work out pretty cost effective.

and to ido09s, what you were saying about getting the bike much cheaper in vic, was the shop you got it from a giant concept store by any chance? the reason i ask is that i have found out this week that the giant concept stores are able to buy stock at 20% less than the average giant dealer. this means 1 of 2 things. 1: they can run them at rrp and make a buttload, or 2: they can run them at 20% off and still make full margin while making the normal giant dealer look like a rip off. the best thing to do is to try and find out the RRP of the bike and then base your buying off that. as long as you aren't paying more than RRP then you are doing ok, and anything below that is a good buy. you will always find shops that have bikes they are desperate to get rid of so will drop the price. just don't think of shops selling stuff at RRP as rip-offs. some of our kids bikes at work we run a bit above RRP because of the cost of freight. if we absorbed the cost of freight on them, by the time we take into account the cost of building them we would be better off not stocking them as we would be making a loss on them.

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what do you mean by paying it off in instalments?

also how much of it are you planning on putting on your old bike? if you swap pretty much everything over and then put all your old gear on the new bike and then sell it as a complete then it will probably work out pretty cost effective.

and to ido09s, what you were saying about getting the bike much cheaper in vic, was the shop you got it from a giant concept store by any chance? the reason i ask is that i have found out this week that the giant concept stores are able to buy stock at 20% less than the average giant dealer. this means 1 of 2 things. 1: they can run them at rrp and make a buttload, or 2: they can run them at 20% off and still make full margin while making the normal giant dealer look like a rip off. the best thing to do is to try and find out the RRP of the bike and then base your buying off that. as long as you aren't paying more than RRP then you are doing ok, and anything below that is a good buy. you will always find shops that have bikes they are desperate to get rid of so will drop the price. just don't think of shops selling stuff at RRP as rip-offs. some of our kids bikes at work we run a bit above RRP because of the cost of freight. if we absorbed the cost of freight on them, by the time we take into account the cost of building them we would be better off not stocking them as we would be making a loss on them.

there's a 35$/week plan for a duration of time for i can't remember which model, was a kona something. I just thought i might just get a complete bike, port the parts over, and sell off the rest. but the wheels running the usual 16 engagement hubs, not so fun =(

My bike only has frame, fork, bar, stem, cranks, seatpost and rear derailluer shifter. LOL

mad, i am certain it wasnt a Giant Concept store in VIC. And the store i was comparing it with from Sydney was MCC who now also own the Giant concept store in Sydney.

You can have a look yourself now. Jump on www.bikeexchange.com.au and take a look at the discounts offered in VIC v's NSW.

I agree with anything under rrp being a good price but when you have one state discounting by so much, and then another state offering nowhere near the same it becomes a bit frustrating.

It was an XTC 29er i was after. VIC price, $1699. Cheapest i could get one in Sydney was about $2100 and thats a considerable difference in price. It wasnt a run out, and it wasnt anywhere near the end of the year or the new model coming out either.

there's a 35$/week plan for a duration of time for i can't remember which model, was a kona something. I just thought i might just get a complete bike, port the parts over, and sell off the rest. but the wheels running the usual 16 engagement hubs, not so fun =(

My bike only has frame, fork, bar, stem, cranks, seatpost and rear derailluer shifter. LOL

do some more research into it. it may be a rental/lease program where at the end you have give the bike back, or buy it for a certain amount of money, like what you get with radio rentals, etc. we have a similar finance option at work. we also have a normal finance program, but they both work out more expensive than putting it on your credit card and paying it off over the same period of time.

what sort of wheels are you after? one of the guys at work has a set of crank brothers wheels for sale. i think he wants about $500, but i'm not entirely sure. they are in very good condition, the rear has a new freehub body. pretty sure one of the boys would also have a set of decent brakes for sale too.

  • 3 weeks later...

You sound like Mr Harvey lol

I know what your saying about shop fronts needing to make some money, but when i can go interstate and buy my bike, plus get a weekend away for the price the Sydney store is selling it, then there is something wrong.

I was looking at an XTC 29er at one stage..... $1600 in VIC, closest i could get in Sydney was $2100. I was happy to pay $2100 but a weekend away in Melbourne, plus the bike was very appealing

Do a comparison on bike shops from different states and you will be quite surprised at the differences. Several bike shops in Sydney wanted to charge me $4400 for a full XX setup, i got it from a QLD bike store through bike exchange for $2200 shipped.

I have been in retail and i have seen the effects of the internet when someone wont open their eyes and move with the times. I have also seen the effect of the internet when someone does and there is no reason a savvy business person could not compete with these online stores.

its just unfortunate that a lot of retail businesses are stuck in a rutt and cant take a chance with off loading some stuff cheap to make a name. People need to rely on large profit margins to stay alive these days, whereas you will find a lot of these online stores sell in bulk for a small profit. Sure they dont have that many over heads, but if your selling in massive ammounts you are going to make massive dollars if your smart

digging up an old post, i was looking at prices on groupsets at work today. the RRP on a full XX groupset is around $4500. what should be noted is that that price includes the rockshox sid XX forks. without the forks the groupset RRP is around the $2600 mark. so if you asked them for a price on the FULL xx groupset and they looked up the pricelist, it would've said around that sort of price. if you did get the sid forks for that price, let me know where so i can order a heap of those groupsets because that is well below cost, LOL

I got an XX group set minus the forks for $2200 about 12 months ago. Bought it from a Brisbane bike shop that had it advertised on Bike Exchange. Money well spent :D

Here you go, $3400

http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/bike_accessories/sram/groupsets/2011-xx-drivechain-brakes-forks/lawnton/qld/100167908

Drivetrain

Rear Mech - xx rear

Front Mech - xx front dm

Cassette - xg1090 11‐36

Chain - pc10901r

Bottom Bracket - blackbox ceramic

Shifters - xx shifters

Cranks - xx q156/a166 GXP

Brakes

160fr/160rr - xx Fr and Rear

Forks

XC level - SID XX WC 100

Other forks are available (price may change)

Edited by ido09s

i'll check that against the wholesale price tomoro but i guess it is probably cost price. don't get the point of shops selling it at such low prices (unless they really need to get rid of it). it's good for customers but from a business sense it is stupid. why spend $3000 on products to only make a few dollars on it when you could make the same amount of profit from a much smaller investment? it also then ruins the market because the consumer expects to then be able to buy it at that price all the time, which makes it harder for shops to be able make a profit, which is afterall, why they are there. unless of course they are buying stuff from overseas websites and bypassing the aussie wholesaler, which can lead to much bigger problems. for starters, no warranty, so if the customer has an issue the shop has to fix it out of their pocket as the aussie suppliers are really cracking down on this and are starting to suss out which shops are buying stuff from OS and shutting their accounts.

  • 1 year later...

I need a "new" bike and came across a second hand Giant Rock 5500 (possibly only sold in Japan - assembled in Taiwan) for the equivalent of about $300. I know stuff all about bikes but it is my daily transport so it is important that it is reliable.

I would really appreciate anyones thoughts on it and also what to look for when buying secondhand. Here are some specs (just click on the blue tabs above the bikes name to cycle through the 3 pages):

http://www.giant.co....&action=outline

It has a couple of aftermarket bits too: a Catseye computer gizmo which has a magnetic sensor on the front wheel and some end bars for the handlebars,

Thanks in advance!

Edited by *LOACH*

Buy mine, I really wanna get rid of it to buy a BMX. I just don't use it for what it's designed for anymore.

20_1.jpg

Before I buy it can you just bring it over so I can check it out. Here are some directions http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/distanceresult.html?p1=565&p2=57 thanks mate.

I ended up buying the Giant anyway. Bit small but otherwise really happy with it. Any suggestions on stuff I should check or worthwhile parts swaps?

Ahhh I wondered where this thread went. Since my last bike I went from a flat bar gt tachyon to an Apollo exceed 40. I have never previously been an Apollo guy but I gotta say with the 105 gear set it is a dream to ride and extremely light! Love it. Shaved my trip to work from 45 mins to 40 mins so definitely quicker and averaging about 30km/h

Xalman not sure if your post is for me, but either way.

My new bike is still a flat bar road bike, was lookig at the proper drop bar road bikes, but with the neck aches i get, its only going to make things worse when leaning over even more to look in front.

Its still a flat bar but the compenentry and weight is fantastic, again, not being an apollo man, i was really suprised.

Here is the link to the road beast:

http://www.apollobikes.com/bikes12/commuter/exceed-40

I have since put on some Mavic Aksiums but so tempted to be the new Easton EA50 aero wheels, the look horn!

P.S. thanks Marc for your advice and assistance, I love the new bike!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...