Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everything in my car is now controlled from a dash panel the entire car has been re-wired. My heaters are controlled by an aux output from the data logger, it can be programed to turn the heaters off an a preset oil temp. Ive got a separate switch to over ride the data logger for the heaters if I want them off earlier and another switch to override the low oil pressure engine shutdown. They are the only two electrical things related to my dry sump set-up.

A simple toggle switch would work just fine though

Edited by Risking

Will post some detailed pics of the radiator in my build up thread in the next day or so. Is quite simple really just has the oil cooler mounted in the end tank with a -12 inlet and outlet. Works really well as gets oil and water up to operating temp pretty quickly and also works a treat at keeping the oil temp spot on.

As proven by Giants car as i was with them in tsukuba in december and let me tell you there were some pretty low temps early in the mornings and didn't get much warmer through the day and there was no need for a heater to get the oil up to temp. So i personally doubt you would need one in oz even in the southern states if running this set up and as stated earlier it saves on space so that has to be a + with any GTR.

Not sure if the V8 Supercars still run a heater for the oil but i know that they used to, (they also run water to oil coolers) . The only difference with them i guess is that they dont use multigrade oils. Its definitely of major benefit as any engine builder would agree to have oil at operating temp on start up, not to mention pre-priming the system (if possible). If the option is there, use it for sure.

Maybe someone can confirm if the heaters are still in use with the V8's??

i was looking at a new fujitsu series car on the weekend and it was running a fancy oil to water heat exchanger which looked like a great setup!!

for those who do not already know, you will never guess where the dry sump resevoir is!!!!

in the transmission bellhousing !! :)

Yes I have done that.

Im using a switch thats activated at 15psi. So its wired into the main ECU ignition supply and the coil power supply. If pressure drops to 15 or below the engine will shut down. I have also purchased a 30psi switch which I may try as well.

You will need an over ride button or switch as well other wise the engine wont fire until it has 15psi.

Also bear in mind if you do this and have a booster equiped car you will only get 1-2 brake applications before your in trouble....

yes, im also running a 30psi warning switch, just not sure how to overcome the lower oil pressures at idle shutting the car down. maybe just run it to the light and shut the car down manually. dont like the idea of car shutting down by itself. maybe switching into a limp mode. will have to look into it.

Yes I have done that.

Im using a switch thats activated at 15psi. So its wired into the main ECU ignition supply and the coil power supply. If pressure drops to 15 or below the engine will shut down. I have also purchased a 30psi switch which I may try as well.

You will need an over ride button or switch as well other wise the engine wont fire until it has 15psi.

Also bear in mind if you do this and have a booster equiped car you will only get 1-2 brake applications before your in trouble....

Use a toggle switch as a manual over ride.

I have a switch with a constant 12 volt feed to one side and the other side goes to the ECU relay output wire.

The ECU relay is controlled by the oil pressure switch but if I turn on the manual toggle switch it feeds 12volt to the ecu and bypasses the relay and hence the pressure switch.

The only problem with this is if you forget to turn the over ride switch off before entering the circuit.

So Ive got a light running off the toggle switch with a diode so the globe only illuminates with power coming out of the switch not back from the relay when the switch is off.

I have a proper diagram a mate drew up but this is roughly what it looks like.

Im not sure what sort of Diode he got but can ask if you want to know.

It works perfectly and the light is a nice reminder that over ride is on.

diagram-1.jpg

Edited by Risking

we never went with a shutdown setup, as we were worried about getting into trouble when the engine shutdown mid corner or when you are absolutely commited.

i think a warning light is a good idea or maybe going into a limp mode so it warns you but total shutdown might be scary at say 200 plus kays an hour or mid corner eastern creek turn 1, or last turn onto oran park straight!

that was my concern also.

we never went with a shutdown setup, as we were worried about getting into trouble when the engine shutdown mid corner or when you are absolutely commited.

i think a warning light is a good idea or maybe going into a limp mode so it warns you but total shutdown might be scary at say 200 plus kays an hour or mid corner eastern creek turn 1, or last turn onto oran park straight!

yeah I have tossed up the low oil pressure shutdown. and my scare is the same so I went with buzzer and big warning light. it's adjustable so I can set it as needed. :wub:

having said that I have seen a few set-up in various cars that run a low oil pressure ign circuit cut and they don't seem to be complaining about shut-downs. those cars I have seen just run an override next to the starter button.

Will post some detailed pics of the radiator in my build up thread in the next day or so. Is quite simple really just has the oil cooler mounted in the end tank with a -12 inlet and outlet. Works really well as gets oil and water up to operating temp pretty quickly and also works a treat at keeping the oil temp spot on.

As proven by Giants car as i was with them in tsukuba in december and let me tell you there were some pretty low temps early in the mornings and didn't get much warmer through the day and there was no need for a heater to get the oil up to temp. So i personally doubt you would need one in oz even in the southern states if running this set up and as stated earlier it saves on space so that has to be a + with any GTR.

Cool cheers!

  • 3 weeks later...

lets not get confuzzled stevo, you are still using the standard oil pump, but with a scavenge pump filling a tank, with your standard oil pump sucking from the tank..

not quite a "drysump" setup. but halfway. still got the oil pump explosion issue :S

its a scavenger set-up, ensures oil is always available for the pump, no surge issues but as you said still leaves the possibility open for oil pump failure.

Not really a proper dry sump at all.

I thought he posted earlier he'd be using a peterson pump??

Sorry i meant if the 12L takes ages to warm up i'll sell it and get a 7L, not going to be swapping back and forth

Good suggestion on the stock filter location, there's a heap of kits like the HKS one that are pretty well priced

Pump is a peterson pump

What heater will you use?

Not really a proper dry sump at all.

I thought he posted earlier he'd be using a peterson pump??

Correct

Dave's a bit behind in the latest with the car, thats all

Hopefully ill have an update soon, havnt seen the car for a while now

yeah I have tossed up the low oil pressure shutdown. and my scare is the same so I went with buzzer and big warning light. it's adjustable so I can set it as needed. :banana:

having said that I have seen a few set-up in various cars that run a low oil pressure ign circuit cut and they don't seem to be complaining about shut-downs. those cars I have seen just run an override next to the starter button.

my low oil pressure ignition cut circuit was designed purely for a drag racing application where 200km/h+ shutdowns are not an issue. Our Superlap car had a shutdown mid corner at Oran Park turn 1 and nearly ended in tears and pain. This car shutoff due to the inadequate oil breather system installed by another workshop spraying oil out the inlet on throttle lift off cutting out the AFM's.

  • 1 month later...

Here's the diagram that came with my dry sump kit. Shows oil cooler and filter location. I've just ordered the same radiator as Giant's old 32 so i'm not going to bother with the heater in the tank. Plus i live in townsville.

post-34032-1225018777_thumb.jpg

Also if any one else has bought a Hi octane dry sump kit can you please PM me a list of what you got in it. I didn't get a breather tank for the oil tank and was wondering if it's supposed to come with one.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...