Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have any of you had the chance to compare the performance of the xr6 turbo or F6 with a GTR preferably the R34? I am not interested in a track car but a daily driver. Does the significantly more torque from the ford make it easier to live with? and in real terms once the cars are moving, would the ford hand it to the gtr in rolling acceleration?

I know it is very unlikely that someone has test driven the new Fg F6, but on the ford forums the dyno figures are showing 283 rwkw from a std car. The mags have been commenting that the rolling acceleration is equal to a turbo prosche or the AMG 63. I have always wanted a gtr but these cars really make you think twice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233215-r34-gtr-and-f6-comparison/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There are plenty of cars that are quicker than a gtr today so i wouldnt really use that as a test point, rather look at the complete package.

The ford would be so much better as a daily driver; the r34 gtr has a very noisy and notchy gearbox, the engine never really settles down like a nice lazy dog but is kinda like a jack russel constantly trying to hump your leg.

cant compare the ford to a porsche or amg as they are in the 250-350k bracket and if you manage to beat one, im sure the rich person in the euro sportscar feels so much better about himself and you will feel worthless, hopeless and you will have to kill yourself.

The r34 gtr is not a daily car, i have one and i hardly drive it..in fact everytine i go for a drive i have to jumpstart it but at the end of the day i have a legendary car....my own GTR......oh and a little honda to commute everywhere else.

oh and if you only have an xr6 then park it with the windows accidently left down you will be swimming in phlem and mucous by the time you get back.

Definately agree with Johnny, I love my gtr, but only drive it on weekends, it's too low, you have to nearly have full lock on to drive up or back out of any driveway/curb. My gearbox must be in better condition than Johnny's :sleep: but its still a bit notchy! Still couldnt bring myself to buy a ford!!!

OK so it sounds like the gtr is not worth driving daily due to gearbox, 'jack russell' type engine, and being too low. These things I wasn't aware of as I never had issues when I had my R33gtst, and I thought the more torquer rb26 would have made it easier to drive. the 5spd was excellent and wasnt notchy.

My rex is like that (except no gearbox issues), and it gets tiring driving it like a rocket to get the best out of it. I'll be going into brookvale fpv and I'll see what its like having 550nm at almost 2000rpm :sleep:

I'd look at the complete package as Johnny says ^^^ Post #2

1) Do you intend to go around corners at any stage? Winner = GTR

2) Rolling acceleration whilst both cars are stock? Winner = F6 by a whisker??? How quick are your reflexes?

3) But hey whoooooaaa; how many R34 GTRs remain stock? Answer = <5%

4) Is the R34 begging to be modified/upgraded? Answer = heaps and then look at rolling acceleration eh?

5) Can the F6 be modded the way a GTR can - any GTR? Answer = No

6) Can a R34 GTR be used as a daily? Answer = A Non-V-Spec can.

7) Which car would be a more liveable daily? Winner = F6 and at least you've got a greater chance of finding it again in a dark alley

8) Which owner would have a greater Enthusiast/Hoon ratio? Answer = R34 GTR owners to a greater degree IMHO

(because they spare nothing to keep their cars in top cond., they scrutinise via SAU how to make them perform, they take more pics of their engine/wheels, etc, etc)

Tez

Daily driver, F6 would be superior as a total package.

I quite like the Falcon turbo too, and I'm really looking at buying one with the ZF 6 speed auto. For a daily, I'd much rather have an intelligent auto, which the GT-R doesn't have as an option. The extra space would also be great.

I wouldn't mind seeing the economy figures, but the RB's a thirsty bitch and the F6 is newer and has better controls so I'd guess the extra weight would be offset.

Definately agree with Johnny, I love my gtr, but only drive it on weekends, it's too low, you have to nearly have full lock on to drive up or back out of any driveway/curb. My gearbox must be in better condition than Johnny's :sleep: but its still a bit notchy! Still couldnt bring myself to buy a ford!!!

Hey Duncan, is your clutch and flywheel stock? i only ask cos my cars got this pathetic twin plate and light flywheel and i wanna know whether a stock dual mass wheel and clutch is any better as a daily.

On the upside i can launch harder then my morning glory

Oh yeah and i know what you mean about the lock, my mate drove my car when i first got it and he has an r34 gtt; had to 3point turn a court.

And the front lip is pathetically low, A factor in the sale of my house was that the driveway was a little too steep for the lip and it scraped all the time.

At 70-80k for an xr6 or f6 you can have a gtr and a new hyundai getz as a daily....plus you will know that nobody is secretly wanting to the sphincter of the universe slap you.

Hey Duncan, is your clutch and flywheel stock? i only ask cos my cars got this pathetic twin plate and light flywheel and i wanna know whether a stock dual mass wheel and clutch is any better as a daily.

On the upside i can launch harder then my morning glory

Oh yeah and i know what you mean about the lock, my mate drove my car when i first got it and he has an r34 gtt; had to 3point turn a court.

And the front lip is pathetically low, A factor in the sale of my house was that the driveway was a little too steep for the lip and it scraped all the time.

At 70-80k for an xr6 or f6 you can have a gtr and a new hyundai getz as a daily....plus you will know that nobody is secretly wanting to the sphincter of the universe slap you.

hey mate, my clutch/flywheel is stock... the drivetrain is quiet in mine. I have never launched this GT-R, my old 32 i launched many times though, what a rush! Im thinking though i will have to change the clutch though at some stage in the future when i start taking it to the track.

You would have to be crazy to pay 40 anything for a xr6t, you are just going to tear yourself a new one with depreciation!

xr6t currently on road fully options for $58, f6 on raod fully options for $69

your kidding, still $58 or $69 dollars is still too expensive. Id rather have 10 medium mc-chicken meal deals lolz.

hey mate, my clutch/flywheel is stock... the drivetrain is quiet in mine. I have never launched this GT-R, my old 32 i launched many times though, what a rush! Im thinking though i will have to change the clutch though at some stage in the future when i start taking it to the track.

You would have to be crazy to pay 40 anything for a xr6t, you are just going to tear yourself a new one with depreciation!

Thanks duncan, i would definitely keep yours stock and forget the track racing. If you have a look on the supra forums, the rz supra uses the same getrag box as the r34 and alot of people do in fact complain about HD clutches and flywheels.

I thought mine was broken but it turns out they all behave like that..

Honestly though im being critical, coming from a BMW where you cant hear a damn thing in-cabin the noise is well worth the drawbacks.

oh and i also never drove a manual car so i had to teach myself in the gtr, ive only done 1000kms so my clutchwork and shifting needs a little conditioning.

your kidding, still $58 or $69 dollars is still too expensive. Id rather have 10 medium mc-chicken meal deals lolz.

Thanks duncan, i would definitely keep yours stock and forget the track racing. If you have a look on the supra forums, the rz supra uses the same getrag box as the r34 and alot of people do in fact complain about HD clutches and flywheels.

I thought mine was broken but it turns out they all behave like that..

Honestly though im being critical, coming from a BMW where you cant hear a damn thing in-cabin the noise is well worth the drawbacks.

oh and i also never drove a manual car so i had to teach myself in the gtr, ive only done 1000kms so my clutchwork and shifting needs a little conditioning.

I would predict the odds of this car staying stock are 1 million to one... i bought this car so i could do track days, i cant imagine having a gtr and not taking to the track!!!!! :rofl:

Have any of you had the chance to compare the performance of the xr6 turbo or F6 with a GTR preferably the R34? I am not interested in a track car but a daily driver. Does the significantly more torque from the ford make it easier to live with? and in real terms once the cars are moving, would the ford hand it to the gtr in rolling acceleration?

I know it is very unlikely that someone has test driven the new Fg F6, but on the ford forums the dyno figures are showing 283 rwkw from a std car. The mags have been commenting that the rolling acceleration is equal to a turbo prosche or the AMG 63. I have always wanted a gtr but these cars really make you think twice.

Depends on what you want man, in your initial post your not interested in a track car but a daily driver IMO the F6 would be more suited to you. There's alot of potential as well, that same F6 your talking about got a upgraded dump-pipe/cat + retune and made 335rwkw not bad for something like $2k worth of mods. The F6 won't handle as good as the GTR we all know that, but they don't handle bad either...just not as good as a GTR.

All depends on what you want outta the car, for a quick daily you can't go past the F6, for more of a weekender/track car the GTR would come out on top.

Depends on what you want man, in your initial post your not interested in a track car but a daily driver IMO the F6 would be more suited to you. There's alot of potential as well, that same F6 your talking about got a upgraded dump-pipe/cat + retune and made 335rwkw not bad for something like $2k worth of mods. The F6 won't handle as good as the GTR we all know that, but they don't handle bad either...just not as good as a GTR.

All depends on what you want outta the car, for a quick daily you can't go past the F6, for more of a weekender/track car the GTR would come out on top.

taking the emotion out of the equation the FG F6 is definitely the better car for my purposes. Ive always wanted a r34 but realistically it sounds like the novelty would wear off as it has with the rex which I use as a daily.

Your right about the tuning of these cars. On ford forums they have dynoed the F6 stock at 283rwkw and with only the boost turned up and some tuning it went up to 313rwkw. So with an exhaust and so on the potential sounds even better than a gtr.

Each to their own, there is no way on earth I would buy a Ford over a GTR and yes, mine is a daily driver.

Can a Ford be power modded as easy as a GTR? A few mods on a GTR and you have an 11 second car.

it seems the turbo fords can be power modded as easy as a gtr and for less cost.

Std they seem to be doing low 13s at 180km/hr down the 1/4.

I'm kind of in the same boat, although i already have a Ford for a daily - an Econovan!!

I just sold my 2005 WRX STi and am currently looking for an R34 GT-R as a replacement. As much as i love the new FPV FGs and HSV VEs, i don't think i would buy one - they're bloody everywhere! Not so much the Fords, but they're still fresh and i'm sure it'll be no different to the Holdens within a few months.

I know which car will make me smile more when i open the garage door.

Shitter van for daily, GT-R for weekend = win. :rofl:

Edited by Huy

Few other things to think about.

An R34 GTR at the NEWEST is going to be what 6 years old? They really arent pratical in any way, if we are going to be 100% realistic, no 2 door car is. Not if you have friends or stuff to put places at least.

A new car is obviously new, and has a warrenty etc. More safety. But you will be reluctent to mod it more than wheels and maybe a stereo.

Also, for that sort of money, I'd be looking around a fair bit more as to what else is out there. R36 passat would spring to mind... They have more interior space, a bigger boot, more safety, more kit, awd, and better economy that either a falcon or a GTR. And resale I dare say would be better than the both as well. There are obviously other cars for that money both new and 2nd hand. I wouldn't limit yourself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...