Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Only get the Kaiwami's if going 19x9.5+15 and 10.5+12

And if you do go through Streeter

Alright for entry level works at about 1800 for the set

^^^ agree with Locky - absolutely perfect offset .... and yes, Jesse is by far the cheapesst (and most reliable) guy around Jp.

I have 18" 9.5" +12 fronts and 10.5" +15 rears, sits pretty much dead flush, not perfect flush but close to it. I really don't think $1800 are for 19", more like 18". But yeah great wheels, get the bronze colour or you could wait for whenever damn Enkei releases their RS05RR, that looks the shit! :)

  • 4 weeks later...

Yep, basically anyone who lowers their V35 eventually pulls out the lowered springs and puts in higher ones - I even pulled off my front lip as well, I was so jacked off at scraping it on EVERYTHING! And I busted my exhaust a number of times before modifying it to sit higher. #v35firstworldproblems :)

Just crazy having to deal with driveways , speed humps , potholes etc - just for the sake of the car looking good and handling slightly sharper. The V's even in standard trim touch in certain places where my older and lower R33 didn't. I certainly ain't messing with it

Amen to that.. i'm only lowered 1.1'' front and rear and i need to take crazy angles on most driveways to get up without scraping. Also jacking the car up is a pain, need to roll the car onto bits of wood for the stand to even fit under. Anyone know of a super low hydraulic jack or even if they exist?

Ive got a lowish profile alloy jack, it can just get under the sils but cant clear the exhaust or the cross member.... Just drive it up on wood as then it gives you plenty of room to swing the arm and not take 20 min to just get it started.

Not sure how much lower than stock mine is as It came with the coils wound all the awy up, this is max low, with the lock ring taken out of the rear. Tucking a little tread all round, but with how low this car hangs I think I would get beached on any more than a small speedbump..... Better than bags though

The concerning thing with this through is that it scrapes chassis/crossmember. Not just exhaust like a lot of earlier nissans

20130411_134446_zps2fdc84da.jpg

with mismatch, but kinda shows lack of clearance

IMG_5529_zps6e4bae4d.jpg

I think it's also got to do with the really long wheel base on these things. It means even when you angle you're not going to make much difference by the time the opposite rear wheel climbs the incline.

The US guys ride them this low all the time, and only damage seems to be exhausts (replace flanges with V-bands for some extra clearance) and rear subframe bolts getting ground down (cut off, replace, meh). I do worry about the fuel tank tho, as that seems to scrape when angling up gutters sometimes (sits in front of the passenger wheel?) and I reckon a metal undertray for the front would be a wise investment.....

I looked at cup kits for a while and then decided that spending another 4k on suspension just to overcome the shortfalls of the design was crazy - so i'm just gonna buy a daily and save the skyline for the occasions where i can be bothere setting up all the ramps to get it out of the driveway lol.

Bags are the answer, and what I am going to fit to my V36 when I get one. The best of both worlds. Let's face it - we don't want (or need) to be slammed all the time. But when you do, you do. So I would run it nice and high for daily duties, slam it for the weekends, and super slam it once it is sitting in place at car shows :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...