Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

definately does make a difference, power is travelling through more parts of the drivetrain hense loss of power there.. power delivery

your theory is correct....in theory.

in the real world this is how it works...500kw transfered through a component will produce a certain ammount of heat and this is the power loss. 350kw transfered through the same component will produce less heat and therefore less losses. So transfering 500kw through two diffs one seeing 150kw and the other 350kw will disperse heat and losses in the same way as 500kw through one item.

Forget the theory's though....ive done it on several dyno's in different cities and its a very minimal difference between 2WD and 4WD....end of story!

Edited by DiRTgarage
You are wrong....we have proved this theory on more than one occasion in front of hundreds of people at Autosalon. The difference in a 500AWKW car.....2KW.

Ok, I know we're off topic quite a bit, but it must be said... I don't like saying anything on forums unless I know I'm 100% correct. And, no matter how much I argue the point, I'm only ever going to get flamed by people here that don't know what they're talking about. It's just the anonymous nature of forums unfortunately.

I have seen on many occasions, particularly GTR Skylines, especially R32's, where I have seen 600HP AWD cars make an extra 50HP in RWD mode.

As an example, a particular car down south, makes 990 AWHP and when run on the same dyno, because the ramp-up rate is so much more aggressive in RWD mode, it makes around 1200HP before it wants to turn the rear tyres.

Talk to any tuner in Australia worth their salt, and they will all tell you the same thing.

Ok, I know we're off topic quite a bit, but it must be said... I don't like saying anything on forums unless I know I'm 100% correct. And, no matter how much I argue the point, I'm only ever going to get flamed by people here that don't know what they're talking about. It's just the anonymous nature of forums unfortunately.

I have seen on many occasions, particularly GTR Skylines, especially R32's, where I have seen 600HP AWD cars make an extra 50HP in RWD mode.

As an example, a particular car down south, makes 990 AWHP and when run on the same dyno, because the ramp-up rate is so much more aggressive in RWD mode, it makes around 1200HP before it wants to turn the rear tyres.

Talk to any tuner in Australia worth their salt, and they will all tell you the same thing.

the dyno they were refering to earlier was a Mainline at Autosalon...this phenomenon of higher readings in RWD does not work on a dynolog dyno...fullstop end of story. Dyno dynamics dyno's yes will read higher if the proper ramp rate is not used (a trick ive employed to win Dyno Dynamics dyno comps in the past by torque splitting minimal front drive)

Ill now shut up as ive got no idea what im on about as im extreemely inexperienced and know nothing.

Well....

:P LOL

of course it does! How about you get away from your keyboard for a moment, and actually pull two dyno runs, one a 2WD dyno and one on a 4WD and post up the differences in power delivery and torque curve and try to tell me otherwise...

:down:

Seeing as though Paul posted above... what you do you have now?

And its not the first time this been the case either, enough threads on it now to backup the fact there is MINIMAL difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...