Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

would be good if there was one NOR..

sucks having to drive almost an hour to get home on a week night.

It's different for me as I enjoyed driving my car last time every time :D

Lets just say.. when im bored, i'll pretty much find a place or reason to drive :P

It was packed. Still got 4 runs in though which suited me as it gave me time to pause and reflect before it came around again.

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected] <-- all wheels spinning off the line and screwed up the shift to second..

[email protected] <-- I attempted to do a burnout, pathetically, but nothing to lose. Didn't even bother for the previous 3 runs.

Not to bad for my first ever go at the drags. I might have to replace my tyres though.. those $110 each ones on the back didn't help me at all :P.

Real good fun.. only one problem. I might be hooked.

ps best 60' of the night was 2.228 on the last run.

Edited by heller44
It was packed. Still got 4 runs in though which suited me as it gave me time to pause and reflect before it came around again.

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected] <-- all wheels spinning off the line and screwed up the shift to second..

[email protected] <-- I attempted to do a burnout, pathetically, but nothing to lose. Didn't even bother for the previous 3 runs.

Not to bad for my first ever go at the drags. I might have to replace my tyres though.. those $110 each ones on the back didn't help me at all :D.

Real good fun.. only one problem. I might be hooked.

ps best 60' of the night was 2.228 on the last run.

Which car was yours?

My 4 runs for the night:

[email protected] <-- completely balls'd up, no launch

[email protected] <-- there we go, PB

[email protected] <-- again not enough launch

[email protected] <-- ooops too many revs...

Best 60' time was 2.287 sec, on the 14.349 sec run. MPH says I can go faster times, was my 3rd time ever, only have cat-back and pod... probably won't go down monday though, and hold off until after SAFC gets installed and tuned.

I'm probably going to head down either next week or the week after to see what my car runs before it comes off the road. Anyone else want to reprezent with me?

Ill come down for a looksee. If i am your support crew, should i wear that Lyrca outfit again? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...