Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi ppl,

just a question about heat shield.

So here goes, when i am putting back the heat shield that is suppose to be on the manifold, it appears to be too near to the turbo. like 3-4 mm from the turbo to the heat shield or less.

is this too near or it wont be a problem long term?? if there are going to be problems, this is going to be a pain in the ass to take out the whole turbo again and re-allign it.... :)

here are some pictures.

thanks in advance.

post-40804-1220109292_thumb.jpg

post-40804-1220109305_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234027-heat-shield-to-near-to-the-turbo/
Share on other sites

You might have issues with the silicone hose melting that close to it all.

I know i did, my setup was a bit different but principles of heat and so on are the same.

Ideally you'd wanna rotate the housing say 90 degree's to keep it away from the heat etc

hmm... too near....

according to the instruction manual, i am on the right track.

this is the picture of the instuction manual. the second picture.

if i rotate by 90degrees it will be hitting the side wall of the engine bay.

post-40804-1220162422_thumb.jpg

Edited by lcy
Looks like a HKS Pro S turbo .

I've never fitted one but is there any chance that the compressor cover (housing) needed to be rotated so it pointed a little further away from the exhaust manifold ?

Cheers A .

first of all i would like to add that this turbo is a kit from HKS itself. (right now i already know that it is not 100% bolt on) if i would have known better i would have paid some one to do it.

i have tried to move the compressor housing before putting it in. I have tried to move if further away from the heat shield but the more i move it away, the actuator will be touching the side wall of the engine bay. i brought the turbo to the turbo guru and he said allign it similar to the stock turbo. and everything looks fine before putting the heat shield on.

*is it possible that i finish it installing it and drive the car to the mechanic and let them refine the whole setup??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...