Jump to content
SAU Community

Surge Tank Enclosure

phunky_monkey

By phunky_monkey,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
I'm coming up with a design at the moment Steve, and I'll work through it with Daniel. I basically want a rectangular unit that will fit into the spare wheel well, with a perspex removeable lid, like the one attached.

sprinter boot isnt it?

mate made one for his brothers ae86 running the 1JZ - curved surge tank to match the wheel well and had the lines exiting the side of the well, then sealed up.

33 boots are not round like the pic above, they are more square and have a step in them that would make the use of a single sheet to cover it bulky.

Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted
33 boots are not round like the pic above, they are more square and have a step in them that would make the use of a single sheet to cover it bulky.

get a torch out and lightly heat it so you can bend it.do it one more time to finish the step. worth a shot :)

phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Chris, the example was a sprinter boot, and the champagne coloured boot is a 180SX boot, which is what I want to get the enclosure made for.

I have a small, square surge tank which is only about 150mm high so I could fit it into that area.

  • 2 months later...
BOZ22N Grand Master

BOZ22N

Posted
Posted
hows this coming along?

i need a new little project to make up at work?

i just need to knwo what it consists of! lol

we just wanted to replicate the one in the first post. Just alloy sheet folded n stuff with a perspex cover. and a few fittings welded on so the fuel can get in and out and the smell stays in.

phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Chard on here was going to make me one, but due to issues at his work has taken too long so I'm looking at more sources now.

I'm speaking with Daniel (Activ32), but if you want to make it Blaq let me know.

This is what I'm after, but dimensions can change slightly if it would suit more people. Just an ally box with a perspex lid, pretty simple.

So whoever want to do it let us know! Car is nearing completion and I want as soon as I can get it done for a reasonable price.

post-8405-1227823471_thumb.jpg

BOZ22N Grand Master

BOZ22N

Posted
Posted

Just measured that up in my boot and that box is huge, i will most likely want only want a 300 deep, 450-500 wide, (what ever height a std surge tank is ??? 400-450),

with 3x jic male to male fittings welded in the side.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

I spoke to my mate today that does all folding and cutting i need in alloy, he is willing to make these, with lexen lid or folded section like original picture.

About $175 each for the dimensions given by Phunky_monkey - plus shipping to Melb of course.

all folded , welded, recessed and Nut-serts and Allen key bolts.

Ryan - no need for the male to male fittings as that defeats the purpose as the connections are still outside of the box.. but can be done if you get the fittings needed to pass through 2.5mm alloy

BOZ22N Grand Master

BOZ22N

Posted
Posted

Chris, thats cool but whats going to stop the smell getting out? The hoses will still need to go into the box some how. If you use proper jic fittings on the correct hose you will not get any smell outside the box.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

then technically you dont need a box then :ninja:

the whole point of the enclosures really is for legallity - they must be seperated from the cabin by something... so if you have exposed hoses, your not going to get away with it on an ADR perspective. the correct hoses would remove fuel smell by default.

are you using JIC and not AN fittings? havent really seen JIC available many places.

My own system is mounted along the boot where the battery used to be, i'll be flanging it down to the stock fuel inspection cover so its totally sealed from the cabin, without anything exiting the sides of teh enclosure other than wiring.

any way you go, you will need to run grommets through the side of teh box, Jaycar have some great 3 piece screw on grommets than are waterproof (so leak proof for vapor)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...